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  #1  
Old 05-12-2009, 07:56 PM
railbuilderdhd railbuilderdhd is offline
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tankette Dragon Majic Tracks

I just got a new Dragon model and it has magic tracks but I've never worked with any tracks like this before so I have a question. How do you glue these pieces together? I noticed the track pieces don't click into place so they need so sort of glue. I wanted to know what everyone else is using.

Thanks,
Dave
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:32 PM
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Stuke Sowle Stuke Sowle is offline
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Dave,

Here's how I tackled the Magic Tracks in the Jagdtiger kit:

http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2627

HTH,

Stuke
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:15 PM
railbuilderdhd railbuilderdhd is offline
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Stuke,
This is great, I can see how you do it is a good idea and will try it but I really do not want to go and buy a new glue (Tamiya extra thin cement) just for the tracks. I will try some other glues I have before I resort to buying this glue you use. Based on what you say about the time the glue is more like a non-permanent glue. Does it get permanent after sitting a long time? I have to see if I have some super glue or other glue lake the Tamiya extra thin cement you use.
Thanks,
Dave
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Old 05-13-2009, 03:46 AM
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greybeard greybeard is offline
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Don't use superglue. You will end up with a mess.

The reason people use Tamiya cement is that is it slower than other brands, allowing time to fit sections of track together before they become rigid. You can try and reinvent the wheel if you must, or you can use methods that others have proven to work. Sorry, but I question the wisdom of risking a $50 kit to save $5 on a jar of glue.

Regards
Scott Fraser
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:47 PM
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James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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Quote:
The reason people use Tamiya cement is that is it slower than other brands,
Actually the Testor liquid cement may be a better choice than the Tamiya one, as it cures and evaporates a t slower rate that the Tamiya glue, which hardens very quickly. Different glues are better for different applications. The Tamiya thin stuff I use if I want something to stiffen and be stable fairly quickly, Testors more for track construction.
I would glue sets of two, then sets of 6 and then sets of 12, always keeping in mind that a few less or mare than this formula maybe needed to get the correct length.
I would suggest working on the length in 4 parts.
First the bottom length from the middle of the front road wheel to the middle of the back wheel.
Let this harden and set up so it's joints are strong. Maybe overnight.
Then do the top length from the upper third of the drive wheel to the third top portion of the idler. When the length is glued together let it set for a half hour or slightly less, (when using Testors). This should allow a strong enough joint at the individual track points to not fall apart when gently placed on the model, yet flexible enough to allow the track sag to be added. Let these set up and then proceed to the two curved end pieces. Attach three of the segments at four points- lower to idler, idler to upper and upper to sprocket and lower front to lower sprocket. Leave the point where the front sprocket lower and front sprocket upper meet free form glue till after painting. Doing this allows to to remove the length for painting and weathering.
Some shots from various builds.





The tracks come already of the tree and no clean up was needed at all!


These tracks need to be glued


built in manageable sections using a liquid cement, (Testors) for the purpose. Also using a straight edge of sorts for alignment.


In place with the sag. Don't forget to leave one joint free of glue so you can remove them later for painting




a little primer on the access plate sit recess


starting to look smart!






You can see the umber oil wash still needing to be wiped back on the inside


now paint. No primer this time just straight to a Humbrol Metalcote colour, (27004)


This paint sprays out nicely and is buff-able.


I use an old stiff brush for this


hard to see here but they are shiny!




and then using a brush which I dip into Graphite powder I polish it up some more to get a mirror shine.


Glued into place for posperity after being given a dusting with thinned down dirt.
The high points were also hit with a pencil to bring back the shine.


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Old 05-13-2009, 02:49 PM
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The results are worth it. Try not to rush that's all. The way I approached it was to build sub sets of five links this made the handling of the lengths managable, things wouldn't be breaking off or moving so much as would happen if it was a sequenqual build of one link after antother.
After these were all made I could make the top lengths first and then the bottom and then the end pieces together. I used these foam earplugs that I get at work, cut to size to brace the tracks in place against the return rollers and the fenders, The return rollers need to have been glued on and cured before this process.





These earplugs can be squished down to nothing and fit in place where they expand and form a friction hold.





top length dry


and the rest of the process..




Whew! done-

and painted and in place..




(I still need to touch-up the return roller with some Grimy black paint on the business surface of the tire and inside.)
Well now that I had finally committed to gluing the wheels on securely I could now tackle my favourite part of building tank models- the single link tracks.
The tracks that come with the kit are pretty nice, but for the perfectionist there is a problem with some knock-out marks on either side of the guide horn. Fortunately the task of remedying this flaw is simplified by the fact that the knock-out marks are outies and can be shaved off with an X-acto knife blade ( I found the curved type the best for getting access to the raised knock outs without damaging the surrounding details) or sanded or any method you may prefer.






four cleaned-up links layed end to end


The way I went about this was to build the bottom layer first out to the point on each end where the tracks start to angle up to the Drive wheel and Idler wheel. This is allowed to dry and harden over night.
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:49 PM
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James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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next the top length was made using Testors liquid cement. This glue is great for this task as it seems to be able to set and hold the track links together fairly soon (10 minutes) after gluing but will remain flexible to allow the track to sag. You may need to help the sag out with a weight here a nudge there. The next step is to do a smaller section for both the front connection from the ground to the top link around the Drive wheel and another for joining the rear top and lower lengths together around the Idler wheel.




I used some plasticine to help the sag get imprinted on the track top length.


1/2 an hour or so later I have the Driver's side done. I have left an open joint at the top over the Idler wheel- this will allow me to remove the track from the running gear and paint/weather them. The sag is pretty healthy but I'm thinking from previous experience with this type of track from earlier Dragon kits- there is some shrinkage.
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:53 PM
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PS-I have come to not care for the DML links. I think they need to drill out the tracks so some pins can be used to make them truly workable.. Till then I will use either Friulmodel or ModelKasten tracks for my builds. I just hate the way they fall apart sometimes and I think the gaps between each link can be inconsistent and problematic.

See here.
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6061
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:47 PM
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James Tainton James Tainton is offline
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Here's a couple of videos showing how I've done the Panzer IV/H Magic Tracks. (Check back in a while there will be a part III)
BTW railbuilderdhd-...you're welcome



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Last edited by James Tainton; 05-19-2009 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:42 PM
sharkmouth sharkmouth is offline
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Thanks for the videos James. I wasn't sure what the orange items were until you wrote earplugs. I got a whole bunch of them for when the mother-in-law comes but haven't opened the package.

Regards,
Saśl
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