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  #31  
Old 08-29-2010, 10:55 AM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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Was looking back at tom cockle's book to see the one of these that he built and he's got the bumpers added to the Tamiya kit so bumpers is it. I figure he knows better than I do........ I have also fixed the "odd" hub you guys spotted. I have WAY too many parts with these two kits. They each have a ton of spares anyway but x2, it takes me 20 min to find the sprue that I'm looking for. Easy to get mixed up on stuff, glad you guys are watchin what I'm doing!

About the workable suspension. Like you, I though the Tristar kit would be useful but after looking it over, I just couldn't see how to really use any of the primary parts and be sure that it would line up properly since it's made for the narrower wheels. I guess it's also made for the older generation dragon/tamiya kits becuase the universal fit tabs do not line up with this kit at all. If you want to make it workable with the kit parts and you can find a way to get them back apart, it's really easy to do. I'll take some pics to show you when I do my next update.

The DML bump stops are a little chunky but with the shurtzen plates and some eastern front mud, didn't think it was worth my time to hastle with it. I do however, appreciate your critical eye, keep it coming!
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  #32  
Old 09-01-2010, 09:08 AM
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armor fiend armor fiend is offline
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On the forward hatch bump stops: I looked though my sources last night. No one says anything about them, but they definitely disappear by the mid H. Some late G's and early H's also did not have them, but many do. Since you're doing an early H, it's safe to leave them in, and probably not worth the hassle of trying to remove them.

I did not see any of the bump stops that Cockle was using (from photo etch) in the later H's and J's in his Modelling the Late Panzerkampfwagen IV. Admittedly, however, I wasn't really looking for them.
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  #33  
Old 09-01-2010, 07:21 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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As for Tom's book..... the bump stops are on the F2 off course and the Ausf H "Fruhe", which is a 4th panzer division early H build just as the one I'm doing. Interestingly, they are not there in the build pics throughout but in the painted model pics on page 36 you can see where he's removed the rods and added the bumpers. He must have pondered on this as well...... Like a lot of things panzer IV, I think this one's open to interpretation and I'm stickin with what I got but I appreciate the input, keep it comin.
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  #34  
Old 09-02-2010, 09:17 PM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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Few things to update guys.... First, I wanted to show how the suspension was modified to be workable since someone asked. It's very simple but hard to explain without pics so here goes.

First pic shows where the smaller of the rods that hold on the "arms" is removed (2) and then you have to trim off the top and a little of the side of the the bottom middle part (1) that otherwise will restrict the movement of the "arms" after you have it together. You just have to use trial and error to figure out exactly how much to file away but it's not a whole lot.

As for the "arms", just cut out where the small rod would have fit again to allow the "arms" to travel to each bumb stop.

That's pretty much it. Put it together and once the cover is put on, it sturdies up just like the older dml kits.

Granted it's not as accurate of a movement as say the Tristar kit would be if assembled properly where the spring can also move in and out of the rear shackle but hey, unless you make it super articulated, you couldn't tell anyway.

On to some more progress...... The Griffon provided barrel cleaning rod assembly is pretty nice stuff although the mounts are a bit sketchy. They are made to mount on the top of the hull and have over the side which is not at all what it should look like so I just made them from brass scaps.

Turned out looking pretty good IMO.

Next up was the other fender and I'm glad this is out of the way for the most part. I may nick it up a bit more but I havn't decided for sure yet and want to get some of the shurtzen parts on to take another look. Not terribly difficult but very time consuming especially when you start trying to bend things and the soldering comes apart I ended up not damaging this one as much as I had planned. I looked back through my references and in most images, they front fenders are just bent down on the outside edge so I went with this for this side so as not to be over the top. I put a couple bullet holes in the front as well just for kicks.

The burnt color is from torching the solder on some of these parts as I couldn't figure a better way to get it done. I was relieved to discover that the polyester putty is pretty much ammuned to the heat which is good to know going forward since the turret shurtzen will be zimmerited and made of brass. Anyway, got this put together and got the rear fender on as well.


Next up was the Orange Hobby auxiliary filter which I had to buy since neither of the Dragon kits have these parts for obvious reasons. Considered trying to track down a Tamiya kit as it would probably cost about the same as this but I wanted to try it out since I'd never used any Orange parts before. Pretty good stuff. This thing was a bit of a pain but it's done and looks the part IMO.


So here's where I'm at as of today......



I received my Aber tool clasps in the post today so next up will be to finish up the tools and other bits on the fenders. I've done one side of the shurtzen brackets and had to take a break. I'll get to the other side soon. One great thing about the Griffon set is that it gives you lots of options. They include every thinkable assortment of shurtzen mounting brackets so that you can use the correct configuration. I believe there are 3 different version of the middle brackets to choose. Not certain they have included the one that I'll need to put at the rear of the air filter but if not, should be easy enough to scratch one. Still no word on the lost Waldron punch (.018) so I'm pretty dissappointed about losing it..... Can't see buying a new one for just that size though and the replacement punches are $50.00 now
Anyway, until next time...... as always, all you Pz IV experts speak up if I've screwed something up here. This thing is like a puzzle trying to be sure to use the correct parts and options to suit the time period but I'm learning a lot........
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  #35  
Old 09-03-2010, 12:24 AM
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gibsonfndr gibsonfndr is offline
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sorry ... see next post.
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Last edited by gibsonfndr; 09-03-2010 at 01:03 AM.
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  #36  
Old 09-03-2010, 01:02 AM
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gibsonfndr gibsonfndr is offline
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Hi. I see "something wrong" with the fender flap pins :
One end is the handle the other end is "the end" OK ?


Well here's the problem :



This part, assuming it is not a "late style handle" (but there can't be two handles ?) shouldn't be bent.
This is a small ( sometimes triangular) part which when moved allows us to set the pin in or out so we end up with two positions :



please forgive my nit picking but you seem to put so much work on this Pz IV ...
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Last edited by gibsonfndr; 09-03-2010 at 01:04 AM.
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  #37  
Old 09-03-2010, 09:08 AM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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first, don't apologize for nitpicking as that's what I'm counting on by posting these pics. the panzer IV evolution is still a bit of a mystery to me so I need all the help I can get...... so what you're saying is that I just need to shorten the pins after the bend to better replicate the "key" mechanism in the lock position..... I'll cut them off a bit and try to make the bend more crisp (90 degree) to more closely resemble the real thing. this is what you're saying correct?
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  #38  
Old 09-03-2010, 09:25 AM
Elco Elco is offline
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Oh my..that is detailing :0 very nice. I will keep follow this one!
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  #39  
Old 09-03-2010, 10:04 AM
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gibsonfndr gibsonfndr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadperkins View Post
first, don't apologize for nitpicking as that's what I'm counting on by posting these pics. the panzer IV evolution is still a bit of a mystery to me so I need all the help I can get...... so what you're saying is that I just need to shorten the pins after the bend to better replicate the "key" mechanism in the lock position..... I'll cut them off a bit and try to make the bend more crisp (90 degree) to more closely resemble the real thing. this is what you're saying correct?
Yes I'd do that if I were you ... even cut it straight and maybe add a little part made of tin foil ... Do you drink wine ?
The tin foil they have on the Bordeaux is perfect for this task.

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  #40  
Old 09-03-2010, 10:37 AM
chadperkins chadperkins is offline
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I just cut the bend off completely and glued on a tiny chopped down brass tab. Not sure you can even really see it in pics unless i turn it right so that the light reflects off it it's so small but I'll post a pic of on my next update, thanks for the heads up. keep it coming.....
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