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Old 03-19-2007, 08:56 AM
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Stillhawk Stillhawk is offline
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Need advice on rolling Aber hinges

I'm building the DML 234/4 and using the LionRoar PE set. I buggered the piano-type hinges for the box the radio sits on, so I bought the Aber set of workable hinges, but now I'm having difficulty in devising a way to roll them. So far, the best I've been able to come up with was to put them in my Hold & Fold to get the bend started, then put them in the jig that comes with the Aber set to complete rolling them. Unfortunately, however, unless I grow a third hand with really tiny fingers, I can't figure out how to hold them secure in order to roll them around the supplied wire. I'm about to try using CA glue to fasten them down then heat them to remove them after I've rolled them. Before I do that, however, I thought that perhaps someone here could advise me of a better way.
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Old 03-19-2007, 09:59 AM
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T140 T140 is offline
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I have the same problem with some in a Voyager PE kit. What I'm thinking of getting is the rolling set from Small Shop, but would would appreciate feedback from anyone who has this. Does it do the job on such fine parts ?

Here's the link to that product.
http://www.thesmallshop.com/prod05.htm
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:05 AM
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No need to glue them down, dude!
The way I found working best for me is the following:

cut off one part of the hinge from the fret, but....very important, leave the other side of the hinge stuck to the fret.
Tape the fret to your cutting tile/mat/whatever.
Find yourself an appropriate diameter wire. Cut it an inch or two longer than needed. Place it into position on the teeth of the hinge-half still on the fret. Make sure it sticks out on both sides of the hinge, then tape it down, so it won't move.

Take the other half of the hinge, the part you already cut off and place it into position. That is; stick its teeth between the teeth of the other half.

Take a razorblade, or anything thin and flat and bend the teeth of one half hinge, closing it further with fine tipped tweezers (or a hammer, if you have the nerves ).
Next bend the teeth of the other half in the same way, and you're done.

Cut the wire to the correct length. a tiny bit of superglue on one side of the hinge will prevent the wire from sliding out. Kind a like what you'd do with the wire pins on Friul-tracks
Cut off the hinge from the fret before or after you have removed the tape.

All of the above can be done with one hand, while holding a beer in the other.
Well...not really, but the method I described worked for me.
Just make sure that the wire you use is thin enough. I have used stainless steel wire of 0.2 or 0.3 mm, I believe. Otherwise the teeth will not fold all the way around, which results in language inappropriate to most people

If my written explaination is totally unclear I'll try to post some images of the process tonight. I made these during construction of my Stug IIB.

Robert
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Last edited by Instructorrob; 03-19-2007 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:07 AM
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Stillhawk
To make it easier to bend, I would first anneal it. This is just heating the part until the color changes. Then bend it over a suitable sized drill or brass rod.

Lawrence
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:07 AM
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@ t140: I've thought about getting that tool also, though I wonder how it would work on parts such as these hinges with a section that has to remain flat. But you've got me thinking of a way to use it, and it seems that having the channel to make the bend in might very well solve the problem. Hopefully someone out there has used it for this purpose.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:13 AM
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I have the smallshop rollers but you don't need it for such small bends. Robert's method works well.

I use the Aber jig that comes with the Tiger set. It's basically a pice of PE with two sides that you fold up at 90%. The sides have a series of holes of different diameters. I insert a brass rod into the hole size that I want. Then I get one side of the hinge and bend the fingers up slightly - around 30 degrees and place it under the brass rod. I do the same for the other side and then mate it with the side that is already in the jig. From here I just bend the fingers down.

Edit - Ok, I just saw the instructions on the Aber website and I just repeated it. I use a fine tip tweezers from Tamiya to help roll the fingers over.

Lawrence
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Adrian Cronauer [imitating Walter Cronkite]: I just want to begin by saying to Roosevelt E. Roosevelt, what it is, what it shall be, what it was. The weather out there today is hot and shitty with continued hot and shitty in the afternoon. Tomorrow a chance of continued crappy with a pissy weather front coming down from the north. Basically, it's hotter than a snake's ass in a wagon rut.

Last edited by lquah; 03-19-2007 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:31 AM
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Robert does exactly like how I do them. works like a charm
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:35 AM
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@ Instructorrob: Thanks a lot. Your method sounds good to me, and your explanation was quite clear, though images are always helpful.

@ Iquah: My problem was in holding the part down on the jig, but I didn't try it with both sides of the hinge in place, which sounds as if it would make it a whole lot simpler. I think I'll try Robert's method first.
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Old 03-19-2007, 01:47 PM
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Hey Stillhawk,

turns out I have only one useful image left, and that's from the first hinge I did, not using tape and also using a too thick wire.Which actually prevented the teeth from closing perfectly.



You can see that I also bend the fingers/teeth of the hinge half first. It doesn't really matter, you can still stick in the teeth of the second half.
But the way I described earlier, works better, as I found out on the second hinge

Hope this helps.

Robert
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Old 03-19-2007, 03:34 PM
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Thanks a lot Robert. It helps a lot. I'll give it a try tonight.

Michael
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