Old 05-02-2008, 10:24 PM
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USMCRick USMCRick is offline
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Zimmerit Questions

I tried my first zimmerit coating today on some scrap plastic. I used the Tamiya tool set. On the first picture, I tried Miliput. It seemed to work OK, but apparently my Miliput set is a bit dried out, as there were several chunks in it that would not melt.

In the second photo, I tried Squadron White Putty. It seemed to work at first, but it dried out before I could finish the test. I had to dip the tool into some IPA to finish the test.

Just how should the zimmerit look? Was this something applied at the factory or in the field? Being a hand applied material, I'm assuming there would be room for imperfections in the application. How durable was this material in the field? Did it chip off under use/abuse in the real world?

During model construction, at what point should I apply the zimmerit?

Any tips, comments, suggestions greatly welcomed!

Semper Fi!

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Old 05-02-2008, 11:49 PM
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Mark S. Pryor Mark S. Pryor is offline
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Check this out.
1. http://www.track-link.net/articles/15

2. http://www.track-link.net/articles/49

Another way to do Zim
3. http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles.../amjt/amjt.htm

and finally a testimonal
4. http://www.track-link.net/articles/21

Hope it helps,

Weirld Al in "UHF" Badgers! Badgers! We dont need no stinking Badgers!
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Old 05-03-2008, 12:36 AM
seanlivo seanlivo is offline
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Great links, I like the screw driver soldering iron way of doing it
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:31 PM
fantacmet fantacmet is offline
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In my opinion the first one looks ALOT better, more realistic. Not only for it's consistency but it's inconcistency. The few spots missing here and there like small chunk have been knocked off. Squadron putty is a nightmare to use a scraper style tool on. Although it works ok with a roller such as that available from AFV Club.

One little hint I might offer that I have tested out and found it works great with the scraping method like you are using is make the zimmerit one long set of grooved lines and then at regular intervals make a very short stroke up or down in the zimm. You don't want to leave a gap between the rows, so only pull up or down like 1 tooth width in distance, is that makes sense. It will make the edges kind of turn down a little. Seems to haev a bit more realistic effect. If I can find my practice piece I will snap pics and show you what I mean.
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Last edited by fantacmet; 05-21-2008 at 01:34 PM.
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