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Old 08-08-2008, 02:14 PM
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Dazzer Dazzer is offline
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Working with 'Super Glue'

How do you do it?

I drop a small puddle onto some old cardboard and then apply from the puddle with a needle. Applicators (well mine anyway) always clog before bottle is empty
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:42 PM
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I put a drop of glue on a piece of glass, where it will stay happy for as long as an hour, or until I wipe my sleeve across it. For an applicator, I have some very fine copper wire from an old transformer. I twist a tiny loop in it and tape it to the end of an old paintbrush. It picks up a mini-drop, a dab at the edge of the part, and it's done.

Cheers
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Old 08-08-2008, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
or until I wipe my sleeve across it.
I put a few drops into little plastic take-out container lids. For application I dip the tip of a round toothpick or straight pin in the puddle then place a dot of glue onto the surface.

The little container lids are nice, cuz you can scoot them out of the way and once they get guncked-up you can just throw them away.
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Last edited by RickLawler; 08-08-2008 at 06:17 PM. Reason: through vs. throw
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:05 PM
sharkmouth sharkmouth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickLawler View Post
I put a few drops into little plastic take-out container lids.
I use the lids from coffee cans. Flex when the glue is dry to remove and re-use.

I keep Cyano-Acrylate glues in the freezer until ready for use. I get a little longer working time.

When using the glues to fill gaps, pin holes, etcetera, I mark both sides of the gap or scratch (whatever needs filling), with a permanent marker. I apply the glue, the accelerator (this is done with a tool similar to the wore loop described) and then sand. When the only remaining ink marks are from within the gap or scratch (whatever needs filling), the item is filled and sanded flush.
See here:


The left side has had the old transmission hatch filled and the new grafted one is in the middle of the sanding process.



When filling larger gaps, such as those in the suspension beams and the hole on the bottom, I use a piece if cellophane tape pulled taught across the gap. Cyano-Acrylate glues do not stick to the adhesive side of the cellophane tape (I used packing tape in this instance but office cellophane tape works as well). I placed glue along the edges of the cellophane to plastic joints and placed the rough cut plastic plug. Allow to dry thoroughly (overnight in this case). Do NOT use an accelerator as I have found these to cause pitting and uneven drying.

Smaller gaps, like those seen towards the front of the hull above caused when I removed some molded on access plates, can be filled with just CA on the taught placed cellophane tape. No plastic slugs were used here.

Remove the cellophane and be amazed that the tape's adhesive has not stuck to the glue. The dried Cyano-Acrylate (CA) is shiny and does need some sanding to remove the gloss and ensure it is all flush but this is far easier than with putty and no fear of shrinkage.

I have used both cellophane strips and petroleum jelly (Vaseline is a brand) to control spreading. When making a fillet on aircraft models (yes, I build those ) I have used cellophane stacked to the desired thickness and applied the CA in very thin layers until I achieved the thickness I was after.

A little sanding to even things out, remove the cellophane and VOILA! A fillet that is proud of the surface.

I have been unsuccessful in using CA to make round head rivets on flat disks punched with my trusty Waldron sets. They never dry to the same size and it is obvious.

I hope these tips help.

Regards,
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Last edited by sharkmouth; 12-23-2009 at 10:56 AM. Reason: fixing spacing from typing too fast.
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:49 PM
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Cardboard, glass, plastic lids, coffee can lids... those are all good ideas, but nothing (in my humble opinion) works better than a beer cap.



It holds glue perfectly and I use a tooth pick as an applicator. After a while if I need a new cap , I just walk up to my refrigerator and get myself another one.
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Last edited by Balki; 08-08-2008 at 07:59 PM. Reason: added picture
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:29 PM
sharkmouth sharkmouth is offline
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Balki, I see your point but...Grolsch? Niemieckie Piwo? Why not Żywiec or Lech? Since I do not drink beer, I drink vodka. However, I never have been able to replace the bottle cap in one modeling session!

Regards,
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2008, 06:38 AM
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Balki, I see your point but...Grolsch? Niemieckie Piwo? Why not Żywiec or Lech?
Zywiec and Lech are very hard to get in my isolated outpost I call Kentucky. Was lucky once or twice to get Tyskie but that was over a year ago and I havn't see it since. I tried to special order some of my homeland beer a while back but it ended in a failure.
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:57 AM
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When i've used CA as a filler, I sprinkled baking soda in the gap
first and then added the CA.
Sand it smooth and done.

..Mutt..
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:07 PM
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Put your CA on greaseproof/baking paper, a few drops will remain liquid for ages
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:47 AM
chumpo chumpo is offline
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if you use super glue to add pe to the model you can use a q tip to soak the liquid glue which will squeeze out from under the pe, do it quick enough and you wont see the glue on the model
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