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  #21  
Old 04-02-2005, 01:31 PM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpico@Apr 1 2005, 09:33 PM
Aber sells treadplate in various patterns, you would have to cut them to size tho...

Part also sells an interior floor for the D model in PE, would it work for the C vesion that's the question?

Be careful not to breath any of the resin dust, is pretty harmful to the old brain. I use a respirator when doing resin.

Looks like a fun project tho...thanks for the pics.

serpico
Hi,
thanks for suggestions. I contacted a local model shop today and I was informed they have Eduard treadplates, 3 different versions. I'll get from those what I need.
I did use Part in my Tamiya 251D project and it turned out quite ok. It might fit but as Part is not imported to Finland, I'll drop that option.
As for resin dust, I'll try to keep it minimum especially as there are small children living in the house. This resin discussion has been covered in a local bulletin board so it's harmful features are known.


Niko
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  #22  
Old 04-02-2005, 07:35 PM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Here is quite literally a small update:

Added Royal Model head pads to roof. These look much better than Lion Roar PE versions.


This is the ammorack which is very nice looking, unfortunately LR provides only one rack


Stand glued in place. The actual ammocases are from RM.


Niko
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  #23  
Old 04-02-2005, 08:06 PM
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serpico serpico is offline
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The ammo rack looks kinda loose fitting doesn't it? Did the ammo drums just sit in the rack with no tie downs or method to keep them from rattling around in the vehicle...call me ignorant on this one as I have no references handy.

The Lion Roar PE looks nice tho.

How is the PE to bend?

Regards, Serpico
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  #24  
Old 04-03-2005, 03:44 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpico@Apr 2 2005, 08:06 PM
The ammo rack looks kinda loose fitting doesn't it? Did the ammo drums just sit in the rack with no tie downs or method to keep them from rattling around in the vehicle...call me ignorant on this one as I have no references handy.

The Lion Roar PE looks nice tho.

How is the PE to bend?

Regards, Serpico
Hi,
you are correct. Drums should be in contact with rack from both sides. I didn't notice that at 2AM. From here you can see the correct composition. I have to check if DML ammo drums are a bit bigger.
Here is a link from Panzerfaust: http://www.germanmilitaria.co.uk/index2.htm
Lion Roar PE is a softer than Eduard, quite similar with Aber. I like it.

Niko
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  #25  
Old 04-03-2005, 04:12 AM
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Stuke Sowle Stuke Sowle is offline
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Fantastic work on those tiny bits!
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  #26  
Old 04-03-2005, 12:13 PM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stuke Sowle@Apr 3 2005, 04:12 AM
Fantastic work on those tiny bits!
Thanks,
those pieces are getting ever smaller, I'll try to take a pic to show :lol:

Niko
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  #27  
Old 04-03-2005, 02:46 PM
Dragan Dragan is offline
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looks great especcialy dashboard
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  #28  
Old 04-04-2005, 07:51 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dragan@Apr 3 2005, 02:46 PM
looks great especcialy dashboard
Thank you I forgot to add all procedures used in that.

As in every decent PE dashboard set, dials are provided as in clear acetate. LR does that, too. Unfortunately red portion in the biggest dial is printed with black! So this part must be painted from front.
First I taped area to be painted with Tamiya masking tape. Next I carefully painted area with Vallejo Red, it doesn't matter if paint goes outside of painted area as it will hidden under PE dashboard. Backside of acetate was painted with Vallejo White and only in areas behind dials. This because acetate is superglued and I think glue sticks better without paint

Niko
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  #29  
Old 04-04-2005, 03:53 PM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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As Serpico pointed out ammo rack setting was a bit loose. Here it is with DML ammo drums and looks some what tighter Royal Model ammo drums were meant for Royal Model ammo rack so I'll give a try on those, too. Especially considering there are two of those.


Also started working with fire extinguisher but first try didn't work very well as you can see So I decided to give up tonight and restart tomorrow


Niko
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  #30  
Old 04-05-2005, 04:11 PM
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Today I got floor plate PE, Eduard German floor plate 1 n 35142. It has the correct pattern for 251. DML has made kit floor as a negative of this pattern so it looks quite awful not to mention patterin isn't in sides of transmission box. Also when you leave out water tank it leaves big holes to fill. So only option is to get PE with correct pattern to fix it either ready made parts like from Royal model set or build those your self.
I decided to build those myself as I don't have time or patience to wait for postage It is also a money issue and I have already enough stuff for this project.
Transmission box cover is quite complicated in shape so it looks very challenging. But with a trick I learnt from TMMI two issues ago, was to use Tamiya masking tape. AS you may already know Tamiya tape is soft yet doesn't stretch. Afterwards this was actually very simple and rewarding


Here is first part covered with tape. By using sharp knife I opened corners of tape before removing it.

This is the more complex part under covering work(Was that English at all?). I added small strips at a time so I managed to finally cover it all.

This is the end result before cutting the corners and removing.

Tape schablones? are moved to flat side of PE. It is easier to cut and tapes stick better.

First part cut. I left some excess to part so I could trim it easier. I cut part with normal nail scissors.

Part bent and in place.

Second part cut and ready to bending.I used flat pliers to bend part as it was easiest and quickest way.

Parts trimmed and put in place. I haven't glued those yet as there is lot to do still even with these two parts. One hatch have to be added and also add a part sitting above transmission.(Don't know name or purpose for it but I'll add later on)

Niko
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