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  #11  
Old 03-31-2005, 04:55 PM
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panamadan panamadan is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stuke Sowle@Mar 30 2005, 02:39 PM
For lack of a better word: that's a sh!tload of PE Niko!!

I have this kit half built, but went for just an OOB build. Keep an eye out and do a lot of dry fitting on the upper and lower hull halves. I did not and the fit was quite poor.....
I just picked up the 251/21-I didn't know there was a fit issue on the upper and lower hull. I wonder if I should mount the AAA in AFV's 251?...
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2005, 02:11 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by panamadan@Mar 31 2005, 04:55 PM
I just picked up the 251/21-I didn't know there was a fit issue on the upper and lower hull. I wonder if I should mount the AAA in AFV's 251?...
Hi,
I guess Stuke meant fit problems with C-version. I'm not sure if D-version fits better. You can check from James Tainton's DML 251/9 Vbench, there may be some info regarding that. In any case, DML is not SO BAD that you can't build it.
But mating Drilling with AFV Club's model sounds intriguing

Niko
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2005, 03:13 PM
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My fit problem was with the C version and was more my mistake than DML's. If I had paid close attention and dry fitted the parts a few more times I wouldn't have gotten myself into the trouble that I diid.

I have not heard of fit issues on the D series of 251's from DML.
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  #14  
Old 04-01-2005, 03:53 PM
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panamadan panamadan is offline
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I see. I'm a big fan of AFV Club's kit's, I guess that I'm biased. I also read a review on Perth's web page comparing the two kits; I think that AFV's comes out slightly better. :lol:
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  #15  
Old 04-01-2005, 06:19 PM
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As my modelling doesn't follow any instructions, I tend to do pieces from here and there. If it is good or bad, I don't know. Perhaps as long as you do something, it's good...Right? :lol:

I wanted to see how Royal Model sprocket wheels come together.


Here are the parts with tool needed. Saw is from Tri-Tool set and it's quite handy with resin parts.

Here is sawing on it's way. No problems here, only resin dust is very annoying as it tends to be filled with static electricity :angry:



One ready and as mentioned in PMMS review, small slice must be cut from teeth so track shoes will fit.
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  #16  
Old 04-01-2005, 06:27 PM
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Next some odds and ends.


Floor has some nasty holes from water tank which isn't suitable for /1 version. I glued plastic strips to holes but it is not ready yet. Somehow floor pattern should be replicated. I haven't figured out it yet. If I could find tread pattern PE somewhere I could rebuild the whole damned floor as it isn't too convincing anyway.



Glued few PE parts and RM resin parts.



Roof is Lion Roar PE and grey front plate from Royal Model. I must say that RM has really improved it's PE material. Now it's thinner and easier to handle.
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  #17  
Old 04-01-2005, 06:32 PM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Dashboard is a combination of RM and LR parts. LR uses quite soft metal so you must be very careful when handling those delicate parts. I managed to do some scratches to dashborad as I was removing superglue.



Almost all parts are added. New drive wheel system is way better than detailless DML part.



Modified kit part with hub from Roayl Model.

More to follow later,

Niko
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  #18  
Old 04-01-2005, 09:15 PM
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  #19  
Old 04-01-2005, 09:33 PM
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Aber sells treadplate in various patterns, you would have to cut them to size tho...

Part also sells an interior floor for the D model in PE, would it work for the C vesion that's the question?

Be careful not to breath any of the resin dust, is pretty harmful to the old brain. I use a respirator when doing resin.

Looks like a fun project tho...thanks for the pics.

serpico
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  #20  
Old 04-01-2005, 10:23 PM
Evan August Evan August is offline
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Nice dashboard. Are the kit parts completely replaced with PE? I'll have to look into the AFV Ausf C for the /17.
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