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  #31  
Old 10-21-2007, 01:09 AM
DOJO DOJO is offline
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"there should be a little gap between the fenders and the body(front section), close the port on the side."
When I said that I mean on the real thing there was a little gap. It's in one i=of the Allied&Axis or some where else, can't remember now.
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  #32  
Old 10-21-2007, 09:20 AM
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canjuaan canjuaan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOJO View Post
"there should be a little gap between the fenders and the body(front section), close the port on the side."
When I said that I mean on the real thing there was a little gap. It's in one i=of the Allied&Axis or some where else, can't remember now.
Ah okay, I see Thanks for the hint.

I did a little more on the interior.


Here are the three compartments. On the left, Verlinden's. Below, Jaguar's. On the right, mine from sheet.


What I did today was the wooden floor parts beneath the driver's / radio operator's seat. Verlinden actually did quite a good job on this, though it's directly molded onto the whole lower part and I didn't want to cut it to pieces just for these parts. Jaguar's parts were also nice and separate but full of air bubbles and excess material. So I dicided to build my ones from sheet (the two whites in the middle).


A more detailed shot to compare Jaguar vs mine effort. I took all the measurements from Jaguar parts but the length which I had to align with my compartment part.
Not visible, but there, is the wood structure made with a file. All this will eventually be visible once painted.


This part is supposed to be glued between the driver / radioman seats. I think it's some part belonging not directly to the engine?
Anyways, note the details on the side of the Jaguar part (right one). Verlinden don't have these but details on the top. It's also much wider than Jaguar's. Also note the different shapes.
I think I stick with the Jaguar part since this interior set seems to be superior over Verlinden's attempt whilst still having many areas needed to be taken care of (what I'll hopefully can tackle).



So, that's it for this weekend, next update may come next weekend, but this not for sure


Take care,
Johannes.
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Last edited by canjuaan; 06-24-2010 at 07:44 AM.
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  #33  
Old 10-21-2007, 09:26 AM
Flak Flak is offline
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Nice work and great progress...
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  #34  
Old 10-21-2007, 09:48 AM
tamigawa tamigawa is offline
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great work Johannes
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  #35  
Old 10-21-2007, 10:52 AM
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Panzergrenadier Panzergrenadier is offline
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Cool and interesting to watch.
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  #36  
Old 10-21-2007, 01:46 PM
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looks nice!
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  #37  
Old 11-04-2007, 11:40 AM
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canjuaan canjuaan is offline
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Thanks again and a little update before I leave.


The rear got 'zimmed', at least partly. The Kolonnenfahrtlicht and the wooden block will be added soon.


Note: It's dry-fitted, but see the fit of the rear part - I already sanded down some areas the make it fit smoother, but there's still some work to do. Thank God this beast has Zimmerit and so you can just sand without being too careful, cause all the remaining gaps won't be visible once the Zimmerit coating is applied.


Rear again... the metal shackles come with the Premium Edition and are a great advantage ove the plastic ones.
Although I did not do much of it, the Zimmerit's a child play! Tamiya's 2k putty is just so great and perfect to work with. It's big fun, give it a try and you won't be disappointed.


The whole tank dry-fitted. It already looks and feels quite impressive, even without it's gun and tracks.


The compartment wall. I actually wanted to complete the whole compartment this weekend, but I wasn't successful, as you see
At least I managed to build this maintenance hatch (?) from scratch.


The engine deck was a fun thing to build no fit problems here in contrast to the rear of the hull. There'll be some more PE handles like the one the left, but all in all, not much PE work must be done here.
I modified the "Antennenfu▀" a little to make it able to receive the Schatton-Modellbau turned brass 2m Antenne better.


rear again...


... and again
€dit: Toolbox will be installed soon.



So that's it for now, I hope I'll have more time for the kit in two weeks, when I'm back home.


Looking forward to your comments (and criticism).
Take care,

Johannes.
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Last edited by canjuaan; 06-24-2010 at 07:46 AM.
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  #38  
Old 11-04-2007, 11:54 AM
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Larry Bates Larry Bates is offline
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Johannes,

Really taking shape now. I've had this model in my hands so many times at the LHS I can't believe I still don't have one. I'll be referring to your build when I do. Looks Great!

Laz
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  #39  
Old 11-04-2007, 11:59 AM
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Uruk-Hai Uruk-Hai is offline
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Chipping in a bit late here, but I really like the zimmerit.

Cheers
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  #40  
Old 12-29-2007, 10:26 AM
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canjuaan canjuaan is offline
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Larry, Janne thank you!




I got an update.

Hello everyone!

Finally our internet provider change is completed. So I want to show you guys a little of the progress I’ve made with my Elefant build.
Got some new soldering paste which works fine, after having tried about every solder, flux and whatever out there. Soldering is a great advantage over ca glue, I strongly recommend it to anyone having problems with the stability of glued PE!

Without the newly acquainted soldering skills the completion of the “eyes” for the tow cables wouldn’t have been possible, I guess.


The bending of the „stripes“ were really a pain in the ass! Anyway, the result looks convincing to me, I’m going to use the excellent Karaya cable.


Started some weld lines and the filling of punch out marks in the inside of the gun box (of course not done, yet).


More Zimmerit!




An anti-tank round / bazooka bounced off the armor? Anyway, also far from done. I used a heated dart spike to shape the deformation of steel.


These ABER barrels are the best! You gotta love them. It’s completely soldered, I’m very pleased with the result. And no, I don’t have four barrels ,-)


Which movie’s this text from, huh?


A little how to do Zimmerit guide! First of all, make sure that the surface supposed to be zimmed is roughned well (like the part in the background). This will help the putty bite into the plastic and find good grip. For spreading the putty, a screwdriver comes in very handy, but any other hard tool will do also. The thickness is easily controllable, once you’ve gotten used to spread the Zimmerit with your tool of choice.


Next step is cleaning the screwdriver (or taking the tool you prefer for impressing the Zim), then sharpening it (for this I use a part of my old skateboard deck which’s grip tape is perfect for this job). I leave the putty between spreading and impressing the pattern 10 minutes or so alone, then the consistency is just about perfect.


I was kinda bored... it will most likely not stay there.


Here you see the different interior parts for the frontal armor plate. Jaguar did a much better job on this than Verlinden did. Jaguar’s replacing the whole plastic piece, by the way. Note the better defined screw heads on Verlinden’s part, but this is the only advantage over Jaguar’s effort. Sadly, both of them don’t fit the DML piece, so I have to take the best of both, as soon as the Zimmerit has tried. Also note that Verlinden is not giving you hints in their instructions about this part – as well as the MG!


Zimmed front armor plate with the special Zimmerit pattern around the bolts.


Again. Cleaning needs still to be done. The movable machine gun is a nice touch by DML, although pretty much worthless in the end.


A little detail work.




It’s shaping!


That’s it for the moment. But I’ve two question in the end.


1. Who’s right here? Voyager / DML look more convincing, but I trust ABER’s research better! My reference pictures don’t show this piece, maybe you can help me?

2. Same here, but this time it’s Voyager’s instruction, which shows a different positioning of the rain guard.

Any answers are greatly appreciated!

Thanks for looking,
Johannes.
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Last edited by canjuaan; 06-24-2010 at 08:00 AM.
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