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Old 10-28-2012, 06:01 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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DML 234/2 Puma

Hello,
it's been a while I have manged to do any bloggable(?) modelling. One issue has been photos and uploading those. Now I have Ipad2 so taking pics is easier. Qualitywise I'm not so sure, you can be the judge about that.
Anyway, I started new blog with high hopes to finish it some day
Kit is DML 234/2 Puma with some additions:
CH upgrade set, Voyager fenders, Part PE for Puma, Armorscale gun barrel, Voyager suspension upgrade(friend looked at it and gave it to me after some consideration, thanks Sami), Griffon PE set for Puma and CMK engine set for 234-series. I also got some resin wheels that I'm considering to use as a master for damaged wheels.
I try to figure out how to use Planet Armor's own pic system.
Here is some stuff I will incorporate into this giant (for me) project. Lot of PE and especially fenders look like a lot of work...
Third pic shows as a comparison original parts (23&24) and parts from CH set. Updated parts allow wheels to be turned.
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2012, 06:14 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Idea of this build is to show Puma either destroyed or badly damaged so I'm planning to
open as many hatches as possible. Here is one of them: hull escape hatch. This hatch is small and doesn't show much of interior but Part has PE part for interior (Aber has one also for old Italeri)
As PE part is not same shape as DML interpretation (which one is wrong?) I fill external hatch seam and screw holes. Hinges removed and with stretched sprue I filled evidence of old hatch. Some parts were not totally filled but I didn't take to bother with those just yet.
Interior hatch was gouged off with chisel blade and rest finished with sharp end of aluminium gauge. Actually pretty handy for leveling small areas
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:21 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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5 pics per post using PA file system? Ok, we'll go with that for now
Part part (echo?) in place with Tamiya tape. 1mm drill bit to Tamiya hand drill and some twisting (no shouting, it's past midnight). This went rather quickly and easy. Tougher nut is to shape entrance correctly, not done yet. Looking at last pic, you can see BIGGER issue: 234 side hull armour was only 8 mm or so. That looks more like 40-50mm!
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:30 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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As I'm a slow with my mind, I have to consider how to proceed with escape hatch issue. Mean while I started work with another hatch: engine compartment.
I removed engine hatch altogether so it's either make or die with this kit from now on
I made a new aluminium hatch, draw places for engine grilles and carefully cut them open. After some test fitting I noticed new palte to be too narrow. Oh, happy days! I COULD have done this before cutting and save some effort Live and learn...
New hatch from thicker aluminium and wider this time After some very careful trimming fits quite nicely
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:52 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Hatch placement copied to new plate. Those look to be a bit going places but I'm not worried as PE parts allow some latitude.. Some hand vise work again to accelerate cutting. Normally I use knives to cut as this metal is rather soft. But when cutting inside plate, you have to be careful not to let the cut "run" outside of planned area. Test fitting with CMK hatches to see if all fits into plate. And it does Drilled surrounding bolt holes with 0,35mm drillbit. The few ref pics I have show bolts to be very near the edge. I used gauge to set line for holes but lesson learned again, I did NOT use it to set holes in totally straight line. Now holes are here and there but I will not yet redo it. I drew placement for hatch. I'm thinking of replacing resin hatches with alu ones. Engine comp hull sides were way too thick so I thinned them using caliper, knive and steady hand.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:55 AM
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alexwencho alexwencho is offline
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Great subject and excellent start for your Puma build.
Looking forward to further updates.

Thank you.

AWD
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:05 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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And yet again into a new challenge: engine compartment itself. As this is the "heart" of the kit, end result should look at least good, perfect is acceptable, too. This will require a lot of work, a lot....
I started tackling the issue by adding resin parts from suspension set. I built years ago 234/1 and added lot of SB parts: brake lines etc. This build now adds more: movable suspension and movable wheels.
I removed floor part as this was open in real machine as well. Firewall's ventilation hatch is opened and will be replaced with PE part. I cut part with thread; it's easiest and fastest way to cut.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:13 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Some wheel copying starting with mold making. Legos are imho easiest way to make molding. As RTV I use Wacker Elastosil 4601A which is good compromise for smaller part molding. Working time with it is long enough so you can wait out air bubbles before you pour it in. There were some progress with resin molding but I did not mix resin enough so end result was not very good. When I manage to recast, I update it here
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:29 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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Next pics are not necessarily in right order but don't let that fool you.
Actually I started this project from fenders which I think are challenging yet easy to replace if those fail.
I have this butaine torch which I use to anneale PE parts. It works great for that and after annealing parts are so much easier to shape. This is essential in later part of this project
234 fenders have this kink on the lower edge which is easy to reproduce in plastic yet more challenging with metal. I'm still not sure if that kink is actual 234 a bend or a rod welded in place.
I tackled issue as Voyager instructed by soldering a thin brass wire. this is only possible by tinning part before hand.
Annealing leaves PE part very dull causing it repel solder. All soldered parts have to sand with 800-grit sand paper.
End result is right side fender soldered with wire. Next with fender boxes and hatches. It's gonna be interesting to see how will I solder hinges without removing wire
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:49 AM
Finnmodeler Finnmodeler is offline
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More soldering, this time with engine hatch grilles. I will combine parts from two sets: Griffon and Part. Part set's grille is not detailed as in Griffon. Griffon on the other hand uses original parts from kit which is not possible in this case.
Griffon parts soldered. This was the easier part, the other one is combining two smaller grilles into one.
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