7.5cm PAK40/4 auf Raupenschlepper, Ost (Sf)

[James Tainton]

Better known as RSO with PAK-40

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12713&img=deckel.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12712&img=rso_pak.jpg

I've always wanted to do this kit-because it's an odd little vehicle but also I got all three sets of the Aber accuratizing sets and I really wanted to play around soldering those together.
I also have a Tamiya PAK 40 (bought long before the lastest generation from AFV Club and DML became available :angry: ) and Friulmodel replacement tracks.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12943&img=4399boxtop2b.jpg

[James Tainton]

here is a little link to some music from Rammstein that I was listening to as I was doing this work today. Click on it and listen along as you read.
RAMMSTEIN (http://members.shaw.ca/panzeriii/04%20Keine%20Lust.mp3)

With basically five kits involved here (3 Aber, the Tamiya PAK 40, and the base Italeri kit), and never having built this kit I was a little unsure how to proceed as the various aspects of this build will need to fit together in the end. So after looking at all the various instruction sheets I decided that the Aber Vol. 2 set about would be a good place to begin.
This set is focused on the drivers cabin.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12721&img=7697abervol2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12723&img=abervol2a.jpg

I started simply at first-bending the left and right seating floor plates first. I used a Mission Models Etchmate for this task, I find it better for actual bending of PE. I use the Hold & Fold I have mainly as a vise to aid in clean up the tiny metal attachment points on the PE parts.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12717&img=5.jpg

there is a massive amount of brass ahead of me so I wanted to warm up a bit...
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12718&img=6.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12719&img=7.jpg

[James Tainton]

next comes the frame that all the othe parts will attach to. There is some tricky bending here but nothing too hard, even for me :)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12724&img=8.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12725&img=9.jpg

like here there is a little jog in the frame that is a little difficult but totally doable if tweezers are used. I don't just use the Etchmate to fold PE - sometime plyer tweezers-fingers.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12726&img=10.jpg

next the attachment of the floor plate to the frame- this took many tries and the best part of the afternoon to do as there seems to be a differancce in width of the channel forms on one side to the other.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12727&img=11.jpg

next the side walls of the interior that cover the engine came next. Care should be taken when attaching these various PE parts - tacking things in place allows some correction far easier than soaking the joints with solder before everything gets properly lined up to everything else. The metal needs to be annealed (heated to red hot or so) to take some of the spring out tof the metal.It seems to curve the wrong way if not done, making attachment more difficult.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12728&img=12.jpg

[shivadog]

Hi James,
at least i see that You decided to make whole model from PE :D
or there will be used any original plastic parts from Italieri?

:thumb:

jerzy

[Evan August]

Looks good so far James. And Rammstein is great music to listen to when working on this stuff.

[James Tainton]

Thanks guys- there will be some wheels and some chassis I guess from the original :lol:
Here the two engine case plates are in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12939&img=16.jpg

in this shot you can see that there seems to be a slight difference in the width of the channels on the bottom of the frame.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12937&img=channelsfromabove.jpg

next up I needed to fold up the cab surround and attach it.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12729&img=14.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12938&img=15.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12953&img=cabfoldhand.jpg

here the seat flooring plate is added to one side already with the other yet to be installed
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12952&img=cabon.jpg

back veiw with the cab walls in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12935&img=cabfront34.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12933&img=cab34.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12934&img=cabback.jpg

and a 3D version :)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12940&img=3Ddrivercab.jpg

[James Tainton]

for reference I do have a couple of items...
this book from MK Editions of France
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12941&img=rsobook1.jpg
one of the main reasons that the Aber replacrement cab is useful is that Italeri have portrayed the sides of the cab as being perpendicular but in fact there is a slight angle to the sides. This drawing from the basic set (ABER 35 049) shows the surgery required should one choose to use the kits cab.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12942&img=abercabwalldrwg..jpg

Hey just an aside guys, does anyone remember know any magazine articles that covered this model?

[James Tainton]

I did a couple of smaller items- the air filter and the battery,
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12964&img=airfilterbattery.jpg
plus I made the steering systems mount. I will be replacing the Aber version of the cylindrical air filter with a scrathed version made from plastic tube. PE is really not suited to make cylinders. :lol:
here is a couple of shots showing the steering bits.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12955&img=steering1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12954&img=steering2.jpg

[James Tainton]

nrxt a fun little item, the engine cover
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12963&img=enginecover1.jpg

there are a few different angles to this piece but was able to bend it up nicely using the Etchmate and the shape template that comes with the Aber set.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12962&img=enginecover2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12961&img=enginecover3.jpg

this Aber stuff is detailed!. Here just to check for alighnment I have used a piece of wire to make sure the holes for the "bolts" line up.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12959&img=enginecover4.jpg
soldered in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12958&img=enginecover5.jpg

next comes the small access hatches, made up of 10 parts!
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12957&img=enginecover6.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=12956&img=enginecover7.jpg

[Dragan]

once more "little" project :thumb:
And cant belive either abouth Rammstein :lol:

[James Tainton]

so I decided to start on the chassis today to see where that will lead me....
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13003&img=chassis&instructions.jpg

the parts are really showing their mold style age... lots of seams amd some flash to clean up- the leaf springs take a fair amount of effort and concentration... :angry:
there are few Aber improvements that I got into...
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13004&img=chassinstchas.jpg

here is a pic of the real deal from the MK book
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13005&img=rsosusbwpic.jpg

the kits parts -the lower suspension arm is getting some modifications the upper is how it comes in the kit. You can see when compared to the BW photo above that there is some room for improvement on the kits part.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13006&img=suspension1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13007&img=suspension2.jpg

here Ive added the Aber part and the reworked hub with a scratched nut /bolt on the end
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13008&img=suspension3.jpg

here is a sequence that shows how I replaced the nut with one made from this template from Grief. You basically soften an end of a sprue at a candle and then push the soft plastic into the whitemetal mold to make a hex bolt head.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13009&img=makingbolt.jpg

here the parts that make up the basic chassis frame are held together with rubber bands while it sets up
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13014&img=chassistogether.jpg

some other bits added
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13015&img=aberimpov.jpg

[James Tainton]

Just some shots comparing the ModelKasten track set and the Friulmodel set.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13013&img=boxtracks.jpg

The MK are for the regular truck type of RSO that I hope to build one day. It includes a set of more accurate spoked drive wheels.

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13010&img=MKtracks1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13011&img=MKtracks2.jpg

The Friulmodel ones
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13012&img=Ftrack1.jpg

[Flak]

Hi James,

How many dimensions (sizes) of Hex head from Grief...are they all came with the screw & nut details in a mold...and where you got it?

[James Tainton]

I think there are four sizes on this template (2 of each). They all have the bolt end.
I got the odd little tool by chance as it was at one of the local hobby shops a few years ago- the guy orders in Geif stuff every now and then-
It's a Mexican product I'm not sure of what else they may have in the line- you may be able to find more info here?
http://www.hobbymex.com/Merchant2/merchant...gory_Code=tools (http://www.hobbymex.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=H&Category_Code=tools)

http://www.hobbymex.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?

[James Tainton]

Well today was full of ups and downs but it ended on a good note. During the afternoon - I took a lighter to the cab frame to reactivate some of the solder joints, (sometimes the iron just can't get hot enough, something about the flux or something makes it real hard to remelt the solder)- there was a slight misalighnment that was bugging me and I fixed it up- took a couple of hours though. And during this process of course the little access hatch that I had assembled with the Flex CA yesterday was all f@cked up so...
I decided to try tackling the the task of rebuilding it this time using solder. These parts are very small and difficult to deal with but I was able to wrestle it into a sweet little final product :)
I also scrathed some gaurd s for the front final drive (?) that are included with the Aber set -but looked wrong compared to reference pictures. I also wasw able to get the differentail into place- this kit i definetly not of the Tamiya "shake and bake" variety!

The first pic just shows I 've added the parts on the suspension that the 8 road wheels attach to.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13057&img=wheel-arms.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13058&img=frame1.jpg

when scrathing these guards for the drives I first tried metal but in the end opted for plastic strip
the one in the front on this pic is the Aber one- just didn't look right ..
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13059&img=gaurds1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13060&img=plasticgaurds.jpg

here you can see the thing I'm talking about
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13063&img=is.jpg

(edit: since looking at them here in comparison to the photo- I ripped them off and will try again) :lol:

[James Tainton]

next the access panel gets done
http://members.shaw.ca/panzeriii/access2.gif

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13062&img=access3a.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13061&img=access3.jpg

[Sheeds]

Nice Brass work James, I'd only suggest launching those 2 dimensional brass wing nuts and replacing them with 3 dimensional items from Grandt Line etc.

Nice choice of subject by the way, the last time I saw someone model one was a few years ago.......sadly it was never finished due to: 5 Aber brass sets + aftermarket Pak 40 + dropped from great height = unsalvageable!

Keep us posted,Willy.

[James Tainton]

Thanks Willy, I'll do my best. As for the wing nuts... I thought of that ,(replacing them with plastic ones),but I think these are more to scale really.

Here is a link to some ref pics
http://www.panzer-modell.de/referenz/in_de...0/rso_pak40.htm (http://www.panzer-modell.de/referenz/in_detail/rso_pak40/rso_pak40.htm)

hereis a link to someone elses build using Aber
http://tanxheaven.com/rso/rsopic.htm

[Sheeds]

I meant to ask James, do you sand the brass before you apply the flux and solder? Do you have any dramas with the joins cracking?

Willy :)

[James Tainton]

here is another one that is nicely done
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/modelpages/GCrsopak40.htm
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/images/GCrsopak40/DSCN1326.jpg


I meant to ask James, do you sand the brass before you apply the flux and solder? Do you have any dramas with the joins cracking?


As for the sanding Willy- sometimes depending on the joint that is being made-sometimes there is not much surface to sand- but I usually try and remember to give the mating surfaces a little "tooth".
My joints seem to hold up pretty well- I think the problems come if not enogh flux or solder is used, or the biggest contibutor to weak bonds, lack of sufficient heat while soldering the parts together.

another nice one here
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/german/clrso.htm
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/german/clrso-1.jpg

I found an article in the No. 2 of Armor Models bi-monthy magazine
http://www.acmalmeria.com/Revisiones/Panzer-Aces/Panzer-Aces-02/PA-02.jpg

http://www.acmalmeria.com/Revisiones/Panzer-Aces/Panzer-Aces-02/09%20steyr.jpg

and another
http://www.panzer-modell.de/berichte/rsopak40/rsopak40.html

[Harry Steen]

Hello,


To Flak: A little late but I found a lot of the greif products - including the bolt tools - on the page of pdi-model-supplies (http://www.pdi-model-supplies.com/)

To James: Well it is been a long time since you have sent me a mail about your weathering (maybe more than 2,5 years) so I guess you will not remember. Since then I have seen you do a lot of models in a great and encouraging way and I choose this way to thank you for the job helping people like me with your work.

So after saying the nice things you may wonder when the bad things are coming ;)

Okay ....I have a wish: If you find time ... yes I know "Keine Zeit müde zu sein ..." can you explain a little more about your soldering technique .... like if you presolder parts, tips you use, heatsinks and so on ....I would be really interested.

In any way please keep up your nice work - I enjoy it a lot! :)

Harry

[Flak]

[/QUOTE]To Flak: A little late but I found a lot of the greif products - including the bolt tools - on the page of pdi-model-supplies (http://www.pdi-model-supplies.com/)
[QUOTE]

Thanks for your link...NOT TOO LATE for me...we are building the models forever :lol: The greif's tools look interesting for me...I may try to order one later...

[James Tainton]

I'll see what I can do about providing soldering process info but it does cut into my natual flow and sometimes I just want to build the model :lol:
The next area I decided to take a look at was the gun platform- foled it up and started on the gun base as well.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13127&img=platform1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13128&img=platform2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13129&img=platform3.jpg

the bracket that hold the side board panel supports are inserted and soldered into permenant position.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13130&img=platform4.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13131&img=platform5.jpg

[James Tainton]

so with that done I started on the gun mount base- an odd looking fabrication that is the part of the gun base that mounts to the chassis, to which subsequent parts of the gun mount are attached.
For music I was having this on for tonight, click
Lili Marlene (http://members.shaw.ca/panzerboy/Lili%20Marleen%20In%20German.mp3)

This started off bad with me cutting tiny little tips that I thought were fret stubs but were really part of the clasp's hinge. I seem to spend alot of time redoing things cause I didn't notice something in the instructions, (read careless reading of instructions here) or I'm on the floor trying to find a part that has flown ito the air and is now out of sight...Oh well not a total lose -everything will be static in any case- although if carefully done the Aber parts allow thw clasp to be opened- I just figure if I left it like that at some point it would break due to metal fatigue and then I would have a problem...
A close-up on a pic from the MK Editions book on the RSO shows you the thing I'm talking about.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13132&img=gunmountclaspBWpic.jpg

here the frame that the clasps get mounted on is folded
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13133&img=gunbase1.jpg

there is a pointy looking thing into which one of the clamps gets stuck in. The clasp has four parts and man - I had to take a few hours just to get one done- the next ones were easier but man sometimes with soldering- things go wrong and you have to repostion things over and over...
this looks a bit messy but I'll clean it up with steel wool later and it will look great with a coat of paint.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13135&img=gunbase3.jpg

another angle of the clamp
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13139&img=1637gunbase4.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13137&img=gunbase5.jpg

next came the part that goes on top of this arrangement- started that to se how it figures..
I got the tube rolled up okay and the doughnut top part on okay but the little pieces that are on the the base aroungd this central cylinder were done all WRONG!!!! :angry:
I had to redo the whole thig- at one point just redoing things over and over until the parts went were I wanted them- more of that in the next post
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13134&img=gunbase2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13138&img=gunbase6.jpg

[James Tainton]

So after ripping off, (actually reheating and then gently taking off), the odd shaped walls that make up the four sided gun support support, (since I had installed them incorrectly) I beagan again this time a little more wiser. (I would encounter another twist further on down the line)...I cannot stress strongly enough for the new guys... read and rerread the insruction... it'll save you some head aches :lol:

so here I am starting to add the various parts that are attached to each of these arm sides. each leaf has like 6 or so little nuts or cylinders that need to be added> There are a couple of the varieties need to be rolled into tiny cylinders.

just an over view...
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13162&img=DSCF0001.jpg

here is a series of pics showing the process I've been on for a couple 'o days
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13163&img=part1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13164&img=armprocess.jpg

the "X" on the one part halfway down is about the PE part got wrecked and I had to scratch one.
The torch in 25 is what I used (VERY CAREFULLY!!) to melt and clean up all the crap! Works great.

After a break I may come back and add more descriptive text... for now that's it! :lol:

[Flak]

AAA...AMAZING :lol: How perfect you done it ;)

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by Flak@May 27 2005, 09:37 PM
AAA...AMAZING :lol: How perfect you done it ;)
thanks-though its's not "perfect" I am happy with the result so far -
I found another link to a restred vehicle.
http://www.rommelkiste.de/Fahrzeuge/rso/rso.html
Any help from all of you regarding deployment of these vehicles would be appreciated- I'm starting to think about the finish I want to give this guy. ;)
I wonder if the 12 SS had any?

[M@ximus]

Hey James, try this websites out they give some info about the Rsobelonging to Army group south and the18th panzergrenader division. I read this article forgot where. But it did say that some were used in the defense of berlin with the french violenter units and Volkstrum units


http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/3620/rso_pak.htm

Hope this helps.

[Tuna]

Jeez when people comment that Aber can be insane.. this thread seems to verify it!.. lol a lot of us just shy away from the isanity.. I've gotta admire the way you just dive right in James!... Looks great!! ;)

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by Tuna@May 28 2005, 09:52 AM
Jeez when people comment that Aber can be insane.. this thread seems to verify it!.. lol a lot of us just shy away from the isanity.. I've gotta admire the way you just dive right in James!... Looks great!! ;)

Thanks ;)
I really like using Aber PE because to me it gives me another level of information on how these vehicles actually went together. When you compare the parts from the kit that make up this gun mount area and the thing that comes out of assembling the Aber PE parts the "awareness" of how things went together is like black and white. If you just glue the kit's parts together paint it and call it done- I feel one misses out on a whole bunch on insight on the construction of this anti-tank vehicle. There is a need to refer to reference foto of the real vehicle that also adds a layer of clearity on the way things looked. So while it may seems like in sanity I feel that the gains in insight of how these things went together is worth the effort. Plus I am drivien for some reason to get to the root of things, and I find it fun!
compare the Aber part (somewhat incomplete) and the kit's offering.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13205&img=kitpart1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13206&img=aberpart1.jpg

the other problem that is encountered with the Italeri gun platform is the floor plates. They are not portrayed in a proper configuration and also the thickness of the frame is not consistent with the actual vehicles ability to store ammo under these floor plates. Here I will describe the process that the Aber set has. Here is a shot of the AFV set that I will use.
http://www.plasticmodelbouw.nl/images/images_dir/AFV35075.jpg

here is a shot showing a completed plate in place,
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13180&img=floorplate1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13181&img=floorplate2.jpg

the little clip that secures the plate in place is moveble
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13182&img=floorplate4.jpg

the underside
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13183&img=floorplate6.jpg

[James Tainton]

this is the Aber floor plates still on the tree.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13184&img=floorplate7.jpg

there is quite a curve to the brass!
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13185&img=floorplate8.jpg

after I annealed the metal on my electric stove top( I try to stay away from open flame- these parts can melt!)
I was able to smooth it out easily by rolling the part flat in the opposite direction of the curve on a CA storage cylinder.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13186&img=floorplate9.jpg

this part is the first to go on
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13187&img=floorplate10.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13188&img=floorplate11.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13189&img=floorplate12.jpg

then this part
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13191&img=floorplate14.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13190&img=floorplate13.jpg

[James Tainton]

folded
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13192&img=floorplate15.jpg

in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13193&img=floorplate16.jpg

next three securing bits added
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13194&img=floorplate17.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13195&img=floorplate18.jpg

the parts are given a bend to fit the end into the frame.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13196&img=floorplate19.jpg
after I made that jog in the restrainers I moved them back into the center more so they would fit better, sliding under the frame beam and doing their job.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13197&img=floorplate20.jpg

now some restrainers are added to the other end.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13198&img=floorplate21.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13207&img=floorplate.jpg

checking fit
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13199&img=floorplate22.jpg

[James Tainton]

the handle for the securing clip
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13208&img=floorplate23.jpg

part 105 is also part of this mechanisim
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13200&img=floorplate24.jpg

the tiny strip is rolles onto the handle
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13201&img=floorplate25.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13202&img=floorplate26.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13203&img=floorplate28.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13204&img=floorplate29.jpg

[James Tainton]

so today I started figuring out the wood side board issue. I did not want to use plastic for the wood- I like using natural wood in models when called for, jack blocks etc. I was thinking that I should maybe go to the hobby shop and buy some bass wood- but then I noticed all the wooden stir sticks I'd "borrowed" from the Starbucks up the street. I use these usually for stirring my paints but after a test fit with one of the Aber end pieces that I had folded- I decided to use these instead of spending money ($) on basswood. I think the surface texture on this stir stick wood was a little rougher and more interesting textually in any case! So here is a few pics of the progress made on this aspect of the build.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13247&img=wood1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13248&img=wood3.jpg

the sticks needed to be cut to size-height and lengthwise.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13249&img=wood4.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13250&img=wood5.jpg

I wanted to treat the wood for later paint effects where paint will be scrapped off the wood -exposing weathered wood. To get a base for this effect I used the old standby Iron Sulfate which I mixed in a solution with hot water.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13251&img=wood6.jpg

after mixing it up as well as I could I submerged the sticks into the weathering solution. The effect I want is that dark silvery grey that raw wood gets when exposd to the elements.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13252&img=wood7.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13253&img=wood8.jpg

[James Tainton]

after soaking for 45 minutes or so I looked at the wood and saw that there was not enough darl colour showing up this due to there being little tannin in the processed bleached wood and at that point I thougt it a good time to stop for some tea.
To drink but to also dip these sticks in-(seperate cups were used).
The tannins in the tea did the trick and I got the result I desired.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13254&img=wood9.jpg

test fit
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13255&img=wood10.jpg

and gluing- I actually had to remove the glued on ends after the first try and sand down each board as the height of the three pieces went beyond the Aber part holder. The discrepancy in the presoaked size and post soak size may be due to some swelling because of the water in the solution?
In any case-a problem that's pretty much par for the course that we modellers encounter during the construction of these minature tanks and one that is easily remedied :lol:
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13256&img=wood11.jpg

test fit
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13257&img=wood12.jpg

[James Tainton]

there was a little problem I had with the gun mount thingy- the Aber instructions are pretty confusing (to me ) about what to do with some of the parts on the fins of this things- I should have followed common sense but I went with what I saw on the instruction sheet- live and learn, may this server as a lesson to those out there who want to do this kit.
remeber this drawing? To me there is confusion as to the proper layout of part 28 and the other parts subsequent to that. They should all go in a direction that allows the thing to fint into the square hole of the platform- mine didn't -I got it wrong- but I was able to fix it. One of the benifits of working with metal and solder!
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13292&img=Untitled-1.jpg

the problem is the one in the red circle-compare the orientaion of the angle cut in the small cylinder in the properly aligned green one.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13290&img=problem1.jpg

fixed... woohoo!
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13291&img=problem2.jpg

[James Tainton]

since we are on problems- there is something fishy in Denmark about the ammo tray parts that you get with the Aber set. They seem to have done something here that cannot be fabricated. You get a strip of brass with three fat points that are to be mounted to the ammo storage space floor. You are supposed to shape these thin strips using a template that is supplied. Now this is impossible to make work- mainly cause the length of the parts is too long! But it is also a very awkward handling thiese bits into the template. If anyone has done it I'd like to know how!!
I decided to use some channel plastic from Evergreen for this item- I plan on having one or two of these storage area open.

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13293&img=ammotray1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13294&img=ammotray2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13295&img=ammotray4.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/achtungpanzer/at.jpg

[James Tainton]

Sometimes I clean up the little nibs with fine sandpaper or if the part can handle it a modelling file.
Here I am cleaning up a very very fragile grab handle for thes floor plates- I use the Etchmate to securely hold the piece in place with just a little of the part showing with the nib to be removed exposed. The part needs to be really locked down-any movement will result in a distorted piece -and it's hard to get them back to the original shape!

I used something like 600 wet dry paper gently sanding off the nib.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13319&img=pecleanup1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13324&img=7484pecleanup2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13321&img=pecleanup3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13322&img=pecleanup4.jpg

top one is not done
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13323&img=pecleanup5.jpg

with thicker pieces a file can be used
cut from fret with scalpel
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13331&img=petipa.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13327&img=petip.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13328&img=petip2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13329&img=petip3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13330&img=petip4.jpg

[James Tainton]

picture I took last night as I got more plates done, which were completed today! :)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13325&img=moreplates.jpg

did this too just to get a rough look at some of the sub-assemblies together. (everything is loose) Kinda looks like a bug!
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13326&img=bug.jpg

[James Tainton]

I'm starting to think about the finish and setting for this guy-been asking around and got this reply on some deployment info

Pak 40/4 auf RSO unit allocations May 28 2005, 12:13 PM

The following units received Pak 40/4 auf RSO:

- Pz.Zerst.Btl. 477
received 8 sometime between 20.2. and 20.3.1944. Battalion disbanded in early April 1944. Guns handed over to A.Pz.Jg.Abt. 752, see below (both units serving under Armee-Gruppe Narwa at the time).

- Armee-Pz.Jg.Abt. 752
8 taken over from Pz.Zerst.Btl. 477 between 10.4. and 20.4.1944. Last reported on 1.6.1944.
No records about fate of the guns found yet, but they were apparently not lost in combat. Probably returned to an ordnance depot because of poor performance.

- Pz.Zerst. Btl. 478
received 30(!) sometime between 10.2. and 20.2.1944. 5 lost during last decade of April 1944. Battalion disbanded in mid May 1944. No records about fate of the guns found yet, but the surviving ones were probably returned to an ordnance depot because of poor performance.

- Ski-Jäger-Brigade 1
According to some entries in the war diary of A.O.K. 2 the unit received 7 sometime between 1.3. and 1.5.1944 for the 9.(Pz.Jg.Fla) Kp./Ski-Jg.Rgt. 1. Have not yet seen the records of the brigade, so I do not know for how long they used them.

- Armee-Pz.Jg.Abt. 751
3 Pak 40/4 auf RSO show up only in the status report dated 1.9.1944. Not before and not after that. Further details currently unknown.

The plans for allocations of Pak 40/4 auf RSO in late 1943 and early 1944 were changed frequently and in quick succession. Other units mentioned in these plans were Armee-Pz.Jg.Abt. 743, Armee-Pz.Jg.Abt. 744 and 18. Pz.Gren.Div.. I did check the records of these units and could not find any clues that they ever received them.

Data found in various records obtained from BA/MA Freiburg and NARA Washington.

Martin Block

Since these units were 'Heerestruppen' (GHQ units) their subordination to corps and divisions changed frequently. At times their companies were even slit up between corps/divisions. I won't go into much detail here, just give you an overview.

During February and March 1944 Pz.Zerst.Btl. 477 was attached to various units under Armee-Gruppe Narwa (H.Gr. Nord)

When A.Pz.Jg.Abt. 752 took over the guns from 477 it also served under Armee-Gruppe Narwa (H.Gr. Nord). In May and June it was active in the A.O.K. 18 sector (H.Gr. Nord)

Pz.Zerst.Btl. 478 was attached to various units in the sector of A.O.K. 18 (H.Gr. Nord) in March and April 1944.

When A.Pz.Jg.Abt. 751 reported the 3 Pak 40/4 auf RSO on 1.9.1944 it served under A.O.K. 16 (H.Gr. Nord).

Hope this gives you a general idea. For camouflage and markings you have to ask someone else. That's not really my area of research. Maybe someone else can also help out with some details for Ski-Jäger-Brigade (later Division) 1? I'm about to take out my wife for dinner;-)

Have a nice weekend!

Martin Block

[Harry Steen]

Hello James,

maybe there is some more info on the history in the Nuts & Bolts No.9 on the "7.5cm Pak 40/4 Auf Gep. Selbstfahrlafette Raupenschlepper Ost (RSO)".
Since I'm not at home I cannot look it up right now (...and I'm pretty sure 2 weeks down the road you've finished this model and another 4 as well :lol: )

As a possible coloring - although I do not know how historical correct it would be - just have a look at the following reenactment group:

http://ww2mmrefphotos.com/photos/RSOPAK40.htm


Hope this is a little help?!?

Anyway I like your wood aging a lot !!!!

Bye,
Harry

[Flak]

Well...beautiful wood effect...I like it :lol:

[James Tainton]

thanks for the input guys!
Just one pic for now- no time for the compy today...
started the side wood panels yesterday- started with a dry fit of some of the actuating arms.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13351&img=sidepanel1.jpg

[Stuke Sowle]

Seriously dude. You've got to get a book together with all this fantastic work in it. You are a PE genius!!!

[James Tainton]

Thanks Stuke.
For music tonight I submit something that I like from the movie Life Aquatic
LIFE AQUATIC (http://members.shaw.ca/panzerboy/The%20Life%20Aquatic%20-%20Techno%20Song.mp3)

These follwing images show my stumbling progress through making the wood panel sides.
http://members.shaw.ca/panzerboy/sidepanel2.gif

These shots show a completed panel accuating arm. The bolts are attached very carefully to the wire pins of the hinges so these things can operate like the real items!
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13381&img=sidepanel3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13382&img=sidepanel4.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13383&img=sidepanel5.jpg

[James Tainton]

Here I am taking some wire that is just a micron or two too thick to fit in the holes of the hinge parts and running some sandpaper over it- it does the trick and the wire fits nice and snug.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13388&img=sidepamelbuild1.jpg
a montage showing the process of doing one side
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13387&img=sidepamelbuild3.jpg

[shivadog]

je, it looks insane :) there will be no working motor inside only, i guess You will make gun fireing :) James You are incredible ;)

[James Tainton]

Thanks ;)
I started working on the gun.
I could have maybe used a more recent release from DLM or AFV Club but I wanted to use the Tamiya offering of by-gone years combined with the Aber photoetch, as I wanted to get my money's worth!) (I did end up trying out a AFV Club shield as I almost screwed the pooch with the Aber part- but in the end it's all worked out where I have used the Aber one.)
You can see in picture 1. the main Aber sheet for this detailing where in 2. the first part of the shield build are cut free of the fret.
In 3. & 4. I am drilling out the Aber shield parts were the pins would go. The way Aber would have one do the deed would make a man go snaky, so I opted for an easier solution of using the recent AFV Club release of brass shield pins. (Thus the need to enlarge the hole in the Aber part)
In 5. you can see I've ruined (rounded) the points of the brass pins. I use a Dremel tool with some steel wool crammed up the chick sometimes to clean off excess solder, but I didn't think that it would wear down the pins during the cleaning up!
I had to heat the shield part to remove the pins and in doing so I thought I may have damaged it to the point whereby I would have to replace it. I didn't want to spend any more money on another Aber set so I tried cutting one out of brass using the parts that were wrecked as a template. This almost worked but the finish was just not crisp enough... so I decided to spend $15.00 on a separate shield that AFV Club offers. I made it up (see my folder in my workbench for more details on this kits shield). This didn't work out either because the lower extra armour that needs to be added in this RSO configuration didn't fit right so... I decided to try the original parts again and you know they didn't look so bad after all and after putting all the Aber parts together on it it came out pretty good. ;)
Picture #8. shows progress made with the Aber stuff on the second try.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13410&img=gun7.jpg

I thought I would substitute the Tamiya barrel with the one that comes with the DML PAKwagen 251/22 that I have. (There is a metal barrel as well in the kit which I will use on the half track)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13411&img=gun11.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13412&img=gun12.jpg

it's odd that the opening on the AFV Club (little inset photo) is different than the Aber one shown here. (I'm prone to trustAber more but perhaps there were two type?)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13413&img=gun13.jpg

[James Tainton]

pictures that folow show the process as I replace bits trimed from the Tamiya gun with Aber details
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13414&img=gun8.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13415&img=gun9.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13416&img=gun15.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13417&img=gun16.jpg

[James Tainton]

breech glued up
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13418&img=gun17.jpg

and sanded
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13419&img=gun18.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13420&img=gun19.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13421&img=gun20.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13422&img=gun21a.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13423&img=gun21b.jpg

I decided I would replace the wierd little armour bit on the side of the gun with the Aber item fabicated with the Aber parts and wire.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13424&img=gun21.jpg
more pics tomorrow- time for bed. Thanks all for you kind comments.

[James Tainton]

(I'm gonna sneak in a few more just to show I got another of the side panels on the back done.)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13425&img=sidepanel2a.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13426&img=sidepanel2b.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13427&img=sidepanel2c.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13428&img=sidepanel2e.jpg

[johnnyboy]

hi james,are you on drugs man lol just kidding bro you are an amazing modeller man and always look foward to seeing what your workin on next thanks for sharing johnny

[James Tainton]

Thanks Johnny!
I only have a few shots today - only modest progress today. Actually took some time to clean up the house today instead of spending all day at the workbench,
Focused on some of the more intricate aspects involving the gun today.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13451&img=gunb1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13452&img=gunb2.jpg

on the shield I added the two parts that make up the mounting barcing achor points. There are four of them
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13453&img=gunb3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13454&img=gunb4.jpg

started figuring out the gun pedestal
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13455&img=gunb5.jpg

get out the 3D glasses!! :lol:
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13456&img=gunb6(3D).jpg

[James Tainton]

reworked the breech -replacing kit parts with the Aber ones- (which are about 7 in total!)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13457&img=gunb8b.jpg
I am going to wait till the morning to take somemore pics- the lighting is wierd under artificail lights.Ciao! http://members.shaw.ca/hetzer/fritz.gif

[James Tainton]

did a few things on the frame. The H beam has some lightening holes that need to be drilled out, they are only portrayed as recesses on the kit. I drilled them out using progressively larger bits. Th back of the beam has a ledge that was cut away as well so in the end the thickness of the beam is thinner.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13484&img=frameholes.jpg

the hooks that are on the kits frame at the front are pretty basic in shape. (the ones in this pic have been damaged during handling) I cut them off and replaced them with a pair that I took from a DML 251 kit. (I have Royal Model replacements for that kit ;) )
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13485&img=frameholes2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13490&img=hookadded.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13491&img=bothhookson.jpg

here's a couple of shots showing some work done on the gun breech
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13489&img=guncloseup2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13488&img=guncloseup.jpg

[James Tainton]

I was looking at the kit's wheels compared to the ModelKasten ones and well, I decided to try and copy them to make a set for this RSO. (The dark brown are the MK items, the orangey ones are from the kit)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13487&img=drivewheels.jpg

a 3D version :lol: (you'll need those red and blue 3D glasses)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13486&img=3dl.jpg

here is the mold I made using Lego as the box walls
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13492&img=mold1.jpg

here the RTV rubber has been poured.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13493&img=moldpoured.jpg

I re did the seat cushion on the kit's seat with 2 part putty. I will cast a copy of this for the passenger side.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13494&img=seat.jpg

you can see in this pic a rear towing pintle that came with the Royal Model set for my 251- it will be cast as well and a copy mounted on the RSO rear.

[James Tainton]

well plugged along today -sometimes the inspiration is pretty thin :lol:
specially when the tasks are fairly repetitive.
Like these wood panel supports. But I got the last one done! So that is a major sticking point completed and behind me. Now here is a couple of quick shots.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13519&img=thirdpanel.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13520&img=thirdpanel2.jpg

I also poured the other part of the drive wheel mold. I did see that I should have done the air bleed siphon thingys different-they should come off the edge of a part and go straight up . I have them going sideways- It maybe a bit messy but I should be able to get a couple of copies. Here is a pic showing the first half of the mold hardened and the plastercine just peeled of the parts.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13521&img=moldpartIIa.jpg

I also looked at some of the more fun aspects of the build- got these brass sets from AFV Club when they came out.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13518&img=brassammo.jpg

I will be using some ammo info bottom plates from an Eduard set for the PAK 40 that is for the square cab RSO towing a PAK 40 from Italeri. Not a very good PE set but these little discs will add some charm to the ammo shells.. Well tha's it for today... over and out.http://members.shaw.ca/hetzer/fritz.gif

[James Tainton]

well I've been delayed in posting an update because well two reasons. One I spent a good portion of the day trying to get the gun shield mounted to the Tamiya PAK 40 and with no success. Also I have decided to take 30 day challenge to see if I can stop all modelling related activity. This means everything... no websites no assembling, no magazines , no buying stuff. I just want to see what may happen if I do this. Maybe I'll end up at the gym???!!!:lol:
So I may not be adding anything to the RSO folder for a while. ;)

I will add these few shots to show where I was at as of yesterday.
The wood panel sides got the securing system installed.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13571&img=gatehook1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13572&img=gatehook2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13573&img=gatehook3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13574&img=gatehook4.jpg

[James Tainton]

I also got the detail of bolts added to the gun base yesterday as well.

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13575&img=8882gunbase1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13576&img=8603gunbase2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13577&img=3042gunbase3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13578&img=9386gunbase4.jpg

I made up some brackets and pins for the undeside of the base as well.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13579&img=5420gunbase5.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13582&img=gunbase7.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13580&img=4986gunbase6.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13585&img=gunbase8.jpg

[James Tainton]

The front hatch on the front bottom got done too as well as the front brake lines.(?)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13583&img=hatch.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13569&img=brakelines1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13570&img=brakelines2.jpg

I wasn't supposed to do any modelling today ...but I ended up doing the gas,clutch and brake pedal set-up
:lol:
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13589&img=pedals.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13590&img=pedals2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13591&img=pedals4.jpg


I also experimented with the AFV Club brass ammo shells and the brass base plates. I had the ones from Eduard but I remembered I also had some from Aber that I'd bought before for a Panzer IV build.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13587&img=shells3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13588&img=shells4.jpg

here's one with the Eduard plate soldered onto the shell case.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13586&img=shells1.jpg

Well bye for now,bis später.

[Stuke Sowle]

30 days?????

How am I going to get my PE fix for the next month James???

:)

Enjoy the sabbatical and we look forward to having you back soon.

[kiwi45]

Hi James, well hope you enjoy the break, as said above, what are we to do til your back on this project?? Your p.e work is outstanding and I love the wood finish, what is(common name?) and where do you obtain the chemicals for treating the wood, as this technique is spendid!! looking forward to more on this build Cheers Les.

[Plasticat]

Hey James,
I sure will miss seeing your posts. This RSO is amazing!! Well, when you get back to reading these posts, have you considered using WW2 Productions tracks and sprocket hubs? The idler sprocket hubs even have the Steyr logo cast into them. Here is a link to the review on PMMS.

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/revi...w2prod35004.htm (http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/ww2prod/ww2prod35004.htm)

Well, have a good sabbatical. We'll see you when you get back. :)

Plasticat

[Markus]

Hey mate,
been a while since I last showed up on PA, and what do my eyes see?
You are still a mad man, and I mean that in the most positive way ;).
This is some impressive work here.
I was hoping to find some day an article about the RSO with the ABER-PE-Set and I´m glad you are doing one.
Great work man, really!

Keep it up!
Markus

[James Tainton]

Well I guess I have it pretty bad :(
Can't stop modelling orientated activity- wellmaybe I'll try again this week to start the 30 day challenge...
In any case I best update with a few pics of things I've been doing over the last couple o' days.
but first thanks for the support you all.

as for the wood ageing
the stuff is called Iron Sulfate- for gardens- get it at the garden center

as for the WW2 Productions tracks- I did see those when they were announced but I think I'll just go ahead with the Friulmodel on this build and maybe get a set of the resin ones for a Type 3 build later.

Marcus glad to be of assistance ;)

Now onto the pics...as you can see in this pic although part of the Tamiya base parts has been broken off -you can see that there is a signifagant differnce in the length of the front part.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13671&img=redogunbase1.jpg

so you can see I have basically stripped the previous assembly down and sanded of some of the top detail of the pivot base top (and botttom)

I needed to replace the details that I had to sand off and wouldnn't you know the wheel parts that are in the Tamiya kit fit perfect!-saved me a lot to hassel trying to get the diameter right scracthing something!
But I did have to sand the wheels done to get everything right
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13672&img=redogunbase3.jpg

this is in process of getting down flat, Ill take it down so there is a small lip that fits inside the othe outer wheel part and then hollw out the middle part with a Dremel tool with a sanding drum.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13673&img=redogunbase4.jpg

coming along
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13675&img=redogunbase6.jpg

I tried to cut a saw tooth into the side of one ring but I knew that this would not work- maybe the hobby store would have some gear or something that would fit?

I needed to redo the underside of the pivot base as well the Italeri detail was wrong-
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13677&img=redogunbase5.jpg
I will have to make 3 more of these straight sided white bits

[James Tainton]

just a quick fit test
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13676&img=redogunbase7.jpg

the gear teeth were made with triangle plasit stock cut and glued in place, not perfect but it works.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13679&img=redogunbase8.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13680&img=redogunbase9.jpg

I tried doing the steering box and sticks but the plastic bits kinda deformed under the heat of soldering in the box to the drivers cab- kinda thought that would happen - I just can't figure out how to get the right thing in metal- it's hard to cut a little kerf that allows the saw tooth things to fit in.
I tried sanding some good diameter brass wire flat on one side and then with a brass spacer solder the two halves together and almost had it this afternoon installed but then the plastic steering handle/stcks deformed when I added another part on top of the frame at that point- I should have added that first -oh well - rushing a bit I guess.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13681&img=2298steering1.jpg

I've added a lever here and you can see the added flat part where the steering handles would be.
I have cleaned the whole of the steering box in preparation of another attempt in the weeks to follow
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13682&img=873steering2.jpg

[James Tainton]

after spending the early morning hours in a frustrating excersise trying to get the steering sticks in... I shifted gears and made uick work getting the second hatch on- Since I wasn't worried to make this work- as I have no engine- although I have thought to scratch one
it went pretty easy. also added were the horizontal lips that catch the metal covers that are for the driver and passenger cabs
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13684&img=2ndhatch.jpg


next the front top armour plate gets its tie points added
sans tie-downs
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13686&img=frontplatesans.jpg

there it is- pretty well a breeze- and they won't come off like as if I used glue!\
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13687&img=frontplatewith.jpg

a closer shot
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13685&img=closeuptie.jpg

here I've added the nuts to the top engine cover again with solder
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13688&img=nutsadded.jpg

well that's one Aber set down and done! :lol:
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13683&img=driversabersheetsgone!.jpg

[franck]

Man oooh MAN !!!!

i leave the hobby for a while and HERE IS WHAT YOU DO !!!!!

incredible work James, totally inf@ckincredible !

now where is this pile of kits waiting ? i need to build something !

congrats !

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by franck@Jun 15 2005, 11:08 AM
Man oooh MAN !!!!

i leave the hobby for a while and HERE IS WHAT YOU DO !!!!!

incredible work James, totally inf@ckincredible !

now where is this pile of kits waiting ? i need to build something !

congrats !
well thanks Frank - kinda wondering where you got to... I can understnd being away from the hobby- I am currently trying to quit all modelling related activities for thirty days but so far no luck ;)
Any way just a few shots to show the front access hatch that I put on last night- I also bought my resin for the castings.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13742&img=flap1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13743&img=flap2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13744&img=resin.jpg

[James Tainton]

Now I start on the cab protective cover flaps- lots of hinges!
here are the two main parts
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13792&img=cabcover1a.jpg

the first set of hinge halves soldered on
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13793&img=cabcover2.jpg

other hinge half added and checked for alignment with a drill bit- wire will be replacing that
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13794&img=cabcover4.jpg

smaller flap added
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13795&img=cabcover5.jpg

a wire handle added
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13791&img=cabcover1.jpg

[franck]

James,

This is truly a jewel !

as for taking away from the hobby for a while : jumping out from airplanes helps A LOT :lol: trust me on this one ;)

keep on the great work !

[Finnmodeler]

Originally posted by franck@Jun 18 2005, 10:32 AM
James,

This is truly a jewel !

as for taking away from the hobby for a while : jumping out from airplanes helps A LOT :lol: trust me on this one ;)

keep on the great work !
Hi,
I agree but beware as my jump to planes lasted about 4 years :lol: Now I'm switching between them on regular basis....

Niko

[James Tainton]

I've been thinking of going in the other direction... that is going under the water with scuba gear. Here is alink to some pics of a friend from another model site... they sure are inspiring

http://photobucket.com/albums/1003/atckyrre/diving/

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/atckyrre/diving/1belgicaerikbaug.jpg

[James Tainton]

the part on the Aber instruction sheet that is relavent to this part of the construction
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13891&img=cabcoveraberinstructions.jpg

so here I have added the smaller panel that makes up the driver's side cover.
The L shaped wire is removable -
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13885&img=smallpanel1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13886&img=smallpanel2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13887&img=smallpanel3.jpg

[James Tainton]

now for some of the last parts that go on this cab sub assembly (will it ever end? :lol: )
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13888&img=backbits.jpg

these wil be where the rear crew seats will be mounted at these pivot points
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13889&img=seatpivots1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=13890&img=seatpivots2.jpg

now just to do the rear seats and the passenger side cab cover and this cab will be done and ready to get put on the frame.

[RC_Hill]

WOW!!!.....I'm speechless... that is just some awesome work Mr T....can't wait to see her when she's done. :)

[Markus]

Well, James, now you achieved your goal...
I´m gonna quit modelling....

Just kidding.
Absolutely outstanding work James, I really can´t wait for every update!
Thank you very much for going so much in the details!

[James Tainton]

No problem guys Thanks for the comments-feedback is good.
I have had a chance to look at the Nuts & Bolts book on this vehicle and well... there are a couple of things that I will have to rearrange, but nothing too bad. The MK book is pretty good but if you can get the RSO book from NB (say on ebay or something) get it if you plan on building this kit.
Typical modelling issues-you find out something after the fact of gluing or soldering somethng. :lol:
Thanks to Harry Steen for the use of his RSO book.

now for a delayed update on the crew seats at the back
here is collage showing the fabrication in wire and PE a set of replacement seats for the back. First i took some wire of the same thickness roughly as the kits seat frame. Then bent it into the right shape and size, The ends of the wire were flattened in a pair of pliers by sqeezing real tight.
Then the ends wher filed round and drilled out.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14096&img=seatmake.jpg

it actually may take a few trys to get it right!
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14097&img=1492seat3.jpg

the left side done
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14098&img=seat4.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14099&img=seat5.jpg

checking the fit on the right side
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14100&img=seat10.jpg

adding the part the ass goes on
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14101&img=seat11.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14102&img=seat12.jpg

here (in rather bad pictures taken under lousy lighting) I am threading some wire thru the brackets and the frame to attach the seat to the cab. Onto the ends of this wire is threaded Aber nuts that are secured with solder. The wire is trimmed back and one side is filed flat to simulate a bolt head, the other side like a nut.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14103&img=seat14.jpg

seats done
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14128&img=seatsdone.jpg

[James Tainton]

so today I blazed thru the right hand side cab cover assembly.
the hinge parts
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14129&img=hingeparts.jpg

rolling the hinge
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14130&img=bending-the-hinge.jpg

here it is mounted and pretty much done. (hinge pins need to be trimmed)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14131&img=rightsidedone.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14132&img=rightsidedown2.jpg

[RC_Hill]

where's the face that shows your eyes popping out of your head :lol:

[James Tainton]

here are all the sub assemblies... all still somewhat in process
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14162&img=subassemblies.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14163&img=subassemblies2.jpg

Here I have been able to start getting the extra framing that was on the PAK 40 RSO- these frames were meant to take the forces of the gun firing. They weren't on the regular RSO frame.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14164&img=framing1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14165&img=framing2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14166&img=framing3.jpg

[James Tainton]

the muffler- drilled out the end (can't see it here) and filled the two holes that are there for fitting the exhast pipes- I'll drill these out for a better looking joint.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14212&img=muffler1.jpg

here I'm just doing a loose test fit of the driver's cab
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14213&img=cabfita.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14214&img=cabfit2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14215&img=cabfitc.jpg

next I've been slowly adding the mounts to the deck underside
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14216&img=framemounts1.jpg

and test fit
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14217&img=rearfita.jpg

[James Tainton]

after looking at some reference pics- I may have to fake an engine in there with a drive shaft as well coming down
As you can see here there is a lot of blank space in there.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=14218&img=cabfitdbig.jpg

[RC_Hill]

um...this may be odd to ask exactly, but what type of solder do you use? by that, I mean lead-free or what?... I'm asking this because I saw the warning label on this soldering tool package and said that it has lead and can cause certain health problems Also, any other safety tid-bits i might want to know? Like where to solder (outdoors or is the inside ok, mainly cuz I live in Arizona and anywhere outside is like 115 degrees F) and if I should where a mask or any type and the best surface to do work on as to not to damage anything "important"
Thanks :lol:
RC
http://www.rjproducts.com/Catalogs/Mk/pic/Mk_C02.jpg

pretty :lol:

[James Tainton]

A simple search with Google
http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&c2coff=1...nG=Search&meta= (http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&c2coff=1&biw=961&q=soldering&btnG=Search&meta=)
try a search with
soldering photoetch
I have a piece of tempered glass on my desk- not specifically for soldering but it doesn't burn- I also have some wood pieces that are okay to burn.
I work inside with the window open.
Just start soldering it will come- it's not that difficult- just practice.
here's one guy's take on it
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/articlepub/ESsodht.htm

or
http://cidwebs.com/armorinscale/soldering.htm

[RC_Hill]

I've been practicing for a while...I'm getting there...I just soldered my first actual pieces for the ammo bins for my DML 251 C 3 in 1 with the PAK 37...it's a start....
thanks for your help thus far ;)
RC

[James Tainton]

I would like to help more but it's hard for me to tear myself away from the models to do a soldering tutorial. It's something that I just did with very little help atr the beginning- I did take a shop course long long ago and a eletrical course in high school.(we made our own little 9.v stobe light, where we even did a curciut board that was etched with acid- will I one day do my own PE???!!) Just keep at it it won't take long (I hope ) for you to get the hang of it.

[sam_dwyer]

James, loving every minute of this build.
In one of the previous posts - Willy Naylor mentions a friend of his lunched a fully Abered Steyr - that unfortunately was me. Broke my heart it did. In regards to your engine dilemma, CMK do a beautiful engine pack for the Tamiya Steyr 1500 - theyre the same engine. Comes with the resin V8 engine block, wierd centrifical blower/cooler dealy on top, perfect for what you will see between the chassis and the cab.

Keep up the excellent work, im hanging on every update.

Sam

[Stuke Sowle]

Continues to be an excellent blog James....just flat out amazing work.

You'd think that it would be enough to inspire me to get back to this hobby, but nothing really seems to be working right now.

[James Tainton]

Thanks guys- SOB bandwidth exceeded- 5000 megs!
http://members.shaw.ca/panther5/bandwidth.jpg
not sure when pics come back- on the first-???

As for the engine- I did see that in my research... that the 1500 and the RSO shared engines- Harry Steen also mentioned the CMK kit
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/revi...cmk/cmk3013.htm (http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/cmk/cmk3013.htm)

I don't think I'm gonna get it for this build- for what I need I think I'll just scratch something up- (now if I can only find that frickin" picture that I saw on the web of the RSO PAK 40 from the side that clearly shows in sillouette the engine and drive shaft- also the engine is mounted differently than on a regular RSO? )

[Stuke Sowle]

Hahaha...I think the closest I have ever come to the 5000 mark was about 4000. I think the new period begins pretty soon.

[James Tainton]

Just to let you all know- I will be resuming this build in a bit when I get a chance but right now I am working the long hours again so it may be a month or so but it will happen. I was going at this one pretty hard and this pause will help recharge the battery to push on through to the other side. I'm still not sure if I'm happy with the gun and its mount... may redo that all....

[James Tainton]

saw this over at Missing Lynx
Pak 40/4 auf RSO in action July 11 2005, 11:06 AM

As far as I could establish the 7,5 cm Pak 40/4 (Sf.) RSO reached the front lines not before mid February 1944.

The first unit to receive this type of s/p gun was apparently Pz.Zerst. Btl. 478 (H.Gr. Nord A.O.K. 18). No less than 30(!) arrived sometime between 10.2. and 20.2.1944 and were distributed among 1. to 3. Kp.. Inexperienced and half trained drivers caused many technical failures among the delicate vehicles. Combat effectiveness was poor. 5 vehicles were lost during last decade of April 1944. Pz.Zerst.Btl. 478 was disbanded in mid May 1944. No records about fate of the guns found yet, but the surviving ones were probably returned to an ordnance depot because of poor performance.

The second unit to have received them was Pz.Zerst.Btl. 477 (H.Gr. Nord, A.Gr. Narwa) which reported 8 of these vehicles in its inventory for the first time on 1.3.1944. It appears however that they never used them in combat because the crates containing the gun sights for all vehicles had been destroyed in an air raid on the transport in Pleskau on 18.2.1944. Although the battalion immediately had requested replacements none had been delivered by 1.4.1944 and the Pak 40/4 (Sf.) RSO were practically useless.
When Pz.Zerst.Btl. 477 was disbanded in mid April 1944 the 8 s/p guns were handed over to Armee-Pz.Jg.Abt. 752. This unit reported all 8 for the last time on 1.6.1944. No records about fate of the guns found yet, but they were apparently not lost in combat. A.Pz.Jg.Abt. 752 complained about their poor performance and probably returned them to an ordnance depot.

The third unit to be equipped with the Pak 40/4 auf RSO was Ski-Jäger-Brigade 1. According to some entries in the war diary of A.O.K. 2 the unit received 7 sometime between 1.3. and 1.5.1944 for the 9.(Pz.Jg.Fla) Kp./Ski-Jg.Rgt. 1. Have not yet seen the records of the brigade, so I do not know for how long they used them.

3 Pak 40/4 auf RSO show up in the status report of Armee-Pz.Jg.Abt. 751 only once on 1.9.1944, not before and not after that. Further details currently unknown.

With regard to the other part of your question I hope that someone else can answer it.


Martin Block

[James Tainton]

I was thinking I may want to redo the whole gun assembly- Use an AFV PAK 40 with the Aber sets, basic and shield plus the mid PAK 40 barrel-
http://www.airconnection.on.ca/airconnecti...ber_pe35162.htm (http://www.airconnection.on.ca/airconnection_aber_pe35162.htm)
http://www.airconnection.on.ca/airconnecti...ber_pe35163.htm (http://www.airconnection.on.ca/airconnection_aber_pe35163.htm)
AB 35L45 PAK 40 MID 75mm
would that be the accurate choice in barrel or would it be early or late?

[Sticky Fingers]

:o :o :o

James? What happened with your updates! I just read all 7 pages and Im dying here... Absolutely astonishing work. A+++

[panzerjager]

Hmmmm....Helloooo!!!! Anybody here? Cof Cof !! Wow, man, those P.E. parts has collected a lot of dust ...and stain!!!!!

James, there was not updates of this? :(

Regards

Darío

[James Tainton]

Istill have all the parts- maybe one day I'll find the focus again- but by then Dragon will bring one out, and well...:D