Weathering using oils

[Jojjemannen]

Hi Planet Armour geniuses!

I'm a first time poster, but a reader for a while :)
New to modelling, just started this summer after a 20 year break. When applying wash on a model today (Wash = mix 1 part oil paint with 9 parts white spirit is called wash?)

How exactly should one go a head to apply it? And how long should it be on? Removed directly? And how to remove the excess?

Reason for me asking this is that I tried this today, with the result that I could remove a big sheet of colour.. :|

I'm looking forward to your helpful tips.

[David Diaz]

Hi Jojjemannen,

Nice to know you are back in the hobby. To answer your question; there are several types of washes for different effects it all depends on what you want to achieve.

Also there are several considerations before you apply the oils. Some people like to seal the model with a gloss or satin coat before applying the oil wash. This makes it easier since it protects the paint underneath from the spirits you are using as solvent and makes it easier for the washes to run into the detail. I personally don’t like to use a sealing coat, but I make sure the paint is fully dry (at least 24 hours) before applying.

Now there are two main types of wash: the general wash and the pin wash. The general wash is very diluted and applied over a wide area. This is used to darken color tones and unify colors. The pin more concentrated and is applied directly onto the details you want to make stand out. I usually leave the wash to dry by itself, but some people like to remove the excess using a cotton swab or a brush. It really depends on what works best for you.

When in doubt always remember that you are better off with several coats of thins washes than with one heavy coat. Also it may be helpful if you post some pictures of your results, that way we can help you better.

I hope this helps

dave

Here is the effect of a general wash on my 250/5

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i259/Terraformingrd/Sdkfz%20250-5/14.jpg

And here are the results of a pin wash on my AB-40

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i259/Terraformingrd/Autoblinda%20AB%2040/1-6.jpg

[Jojjemannen]

Hi Dave,

And thank you for taking the time to help me out.

I'm currently at the office but I will post pictures of the result when I get back.

I opted for the general wash, after two cotes of satin coat, I applied lamp black and burnt umber mixed with turpentine.
What happened was that the paint stated to form bubbles, parts becoming loose and everything fell apart.

Why did this happen? Was the turpentine to strong? I waited over 24 hours before applying the wash.

Thanks so far!

Joseph

[Jojjemannen]

I hope that anyone of you can give a quick diagnose by looking at the picture on what I did wrong.

1756

I was able to lift huge chunks of the paint, all i one go.

[James Tainton]

Seems to me from experience- you did not protect the paint job with a coat of Future or some other water based clear coat?

[Jojjemannen]

I used Testors nr 1560 ..dull coat.. two layers. Not enough with two? Or should I use a waterbased coat? Instead of a alcohol base which the turpentine that I use to thin the oil paint can dissolve.....

[David Diaz]

Joseph,

That is one nasty job there! :D The same thing happened to me once. Like James said, sealing the paint with a coat of Future will prevent such disasters.

Also, where the satin coats water based? What brand did you used?

dave

[Jojjemannen]

I'm not alone! Whoohoo! :)

When you talk about Future (http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html), is it the floor wax?

[James Tainton]

I used Testors nr 1560 ..dull coat.. two layers. Not enough with two? Or should I use a waterbased coat? Instead of a alcohol base which the turpentine that I use to thin the oil paint can dissolve.....

Hmmm I haven't been able to find that stock number. Are you sure that is the number. I have 1160 which is a lacquer based clear coat- in theory it should work to protect the underlying base colours because lacquer and oil based turps are different and the turps should not reactivate the lacquer. But there maybe mitigating factors here - the clear coat was not thick enough, which I suspect and from my experience turpentine is a very aggressive solvent for using to thin your washes with- I would suggest a gentler white spirits or paint thinner.
And yes Future is a water based clear acrylic plastic used on floors.
I would now suggest you try using some oven cleaner to strip the model back and try again. Look at this a a learning experience-;)

[RickLawler]

OuCh! Sorry, what a bummer!


I would now suggest you try using some oven cleaner to strip the model back and try again. Look at this a a learning experience
...the good news is that your job if halfway done already..! :yell:

Please keep us updated...
Rick

[Jojjemannen]

OuCh! Sorry, what a bummer!



...the good news is that your job if halfway done already..! :yell:

Hahaha, Yeah, that's for sure!


Please keep us updated...
Rick

o...k.. :)

I am a newbie you know !

[majorchuck]

happens all the time terpintine dangerus on enamil but use a stif brush and terp and prtend to dry brush , all that crap will come off , then dry over night then prime that work with commertial can prime read lable for plastice use and coat. the next day respray that subject.now speed of evap critical before wash is aply. set near heat soarce about 80 to85 deg f. alow model to warm the apply your wash .Next is important place in path of fan on low to evap thinner befor it starts to crincle the serface.you will see the thinners disapate almost instanly and oh yes use mineral spiritesfor enamel washes and isopropenal for groundup pastals good luck!

[duckboy]

I hope that anyone of you can give a quick diagnose by looking at the picture on what I did wrong.

1756

I was able to lift huge chunks of the paint, all i one go.

I had this problem with a few of my kits as well, the problem turned out to be that I was not washing the release agent from the plastic before painting.:yell:

lesson learned= the first step with every kit is to always wash all the parts (on the sprues) in warm soapy water, rinse and dry.:confused:

the airbrushed acrylic paint seemed to sit ok on the model, but when i added the wash (oil paint and humbrol enamel thinner) it re-activated the release agent, and peeled everything off back to the plastic:thumb:.

[TigerAce]

where could i get future?and is that the brand name or what?

[Iain Hamilton]

Hello,
Hopefully I can be of some help. I use a 25% of enamel color to 75% white spirit. This can be used to help accentuate recessed areas. In your initial post, you stated that you are using a 1 to 9 ratio? This will create a mix that is to thin for a wash. This ratio of 10% enamel color to 90% white spirit will give you a "Filter" This thinned ratio will give you a chance to change the tone of you base color and should be applied before a wash. If all of this sounds confusing, I would suggest to you to buy yourself a copy of MIG's most recent DVD appropriately named "WASHES, FADING AND OILS". Visit ak-interactive.com to pick up a copy. It is realy inexpensive and is a wealth of information. It may be the best money spent on learning a handful of processes that will help you for the rest of your modeling days!