Dragon StuG III Ausf. A [Archive]

James Tainton

02-13-2008, 03:58 AM

Well this will be a fun build for me guys- I've always liked Sturmgeshuetz- and these old DML kits on the subject actually got me interested in this hobby again back in the mid '90s. Something about the Panzer III chassis piqued my interest and then the tough looking, low silhouetted StuG, was also something new- to me at any rate back then. And you can tell from the closet where you can see I have have been stocking up- having almost all the kits ever made available of the StuG. I did build up a B version from DML. But for that one build though, other topics have garnered my attention. However because of this Group Build starting up, with it having been a subject that I have always wanted to revisit I now feel the inspiration again. But I like to do things in a sequential order - to see the development of things so to speak- (one of the reasons for my penchant for Panzer I kits:D) so I figure I may as well start with the StuG. Ausf. A
I'll only post here for now the books I've collected on the subject over the years.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-1.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-2.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-3.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-4.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-5.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-6.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-7.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-8.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-9.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-10.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-11.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-12.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-13.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/books/Untitled-14.jpg

AfRiKaKoRpS

02-13-2008, 04:38 AM

James very nice reference colection you managed to get over the years.
I think I might get Ground Power, Tankograd and Allied-Axis as well.
Does issue #141 02/2006 cover Ausf.G?

Do you have plans for a specific wehicle already? Box Wittmann or else?

Chris

Striker

02-13-2008, 07:05 AM

very nice kit, i will follow it :thumb:

James Tainton

02-13-2008, 09:25 PM

James very nice reference colection you managed to get over the years.
I think I might get Ground Power, Tankograd and Allied-Axis as well.
Does issue #141 02/2006 cover Ausf.G?
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?p=60015#post60015
Do you have plans for a specific vehicle already? Box Wittmann or else?

Issue #141 does cover the G.
I am going to go ahead with the Wittman mount- as this seems as good as any to represent -but we'll see. I may change my mind and do one for Heinrich Engel of Strmgeschuetz-Batterie 660, one of the StuG units to get this model.
But of course some music? A unit from BREEDER (https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/Music/Breeder%20'Tyrantanic'%20(Slack.mp3)

here is the hull tub that comes with the kit. Some changes will have to be made bring it closer to a real representation of the actual item.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/good_right_side.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/good_right_front.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/good_left_side.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/good_back_side.jpg

If you wondered why I included the Panzer Tracts book on Panzer III's in my above list of references, it's because the StuG Ausf. A was based on the Panzer III Ausf. F chassis, and the PT book on that has some very nice scale drawings which show tremendous detail & measurements nicely.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/ptdrawing.jpg

one of the main changes is the return rollers. The MK Editions book and Gary Edmondson's point out the need to move the first position, (front) return roller mount back a bit to fit the profile of the Ausf. A. The return rollers were more equal distant in spacing, later models having the front one moved a bit forward.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/drawing+hull.jpg

I noticed though that the middle one didn't really line up with Doyle's drawing either. On top of that the shape and bolt pattern on these return roller mounts don't look right. I decided to strip them all off and take a page from Gary's book and use replacement castings made from molds made of the ones that are on the Tamiya Panzer III Ausf. L hull tub.
I also cut the wrongly shaped back plate at this time. I will replace that with a shape closer to the correct profile that will be cut from Evergreen plastic.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_left_back_stripped.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_right_side_back.jpg

I used some auto body glazing putty to fill any recesses.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_right_side2.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_right_front.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_left_side.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_left_side_back.jpg

one other thing needing attention - only on the left side, are two bolt heads for the mountings of the torsion bar that are in the wrong position.
they have to be removed . I replaced them with conical bolt heads from an old ModelKasten sprue.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_left_sideCU.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_left_side_delete.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/bad_left_side_draw.jpg

James Tainton

02-13-2008, 09:48 PM

I am also going to replace the road wheels , suspension arms, dampers, return rollers, and final drives using the two A sprues from the Panzer III L kit by Tamiya ( I will order replacements for that kit eventually).
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/Tam_replace.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/Tam_replace2.jpg

as you can see the Tamiya return rollers are much better that the old DLM ones, which suffer from circular flash- right in the center of their hubs.
The warm yellow-orange Tamiya items
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/tamiya_return.jpg

The DML ones
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/DML_return.jpg

the road wheels and suspension arms are sharper in the Tamiya kit as well.
https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/DML_Tamfront.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/DML_Tam1.jpg

I will have to add the stiffening tubes on the Tamiya insides, as well I will be adding the Aber etched-brass rings that will simulate the ones that are on the real road wheel interiors.

RickLawler

02-14-2008, 02:30 PM

Boy, you really jumped in with both feet...lots of good work.

Have you read the Heinrich Engel book? I enjoy reading that type of material, auto-biographical and accounts - but I'm unfamiliar with that book - so I'd like your impressions if you'd read it.

thanks,

Sticky

02-14-2008, 02:55 PM

Hi James. Before you dump the DML wheels, make note that the Ausf A used a different roadwheel than the B-G. The A used the 520x75-397 while the B-G used the 520x95-397. The only ones available are the DML ones that come in the kit. Infact on the A I did I used the DML road wheels on a backdated Tamiya B. Also, if you want markings for Engels StuG, I did a set for Archer.

Andrew Hall

02-14-2008, 03:11 PM

Good choice James, nice little kit except for the lower hull. I was going to mention the wheel thing but John got there first.

Aber do a nice little fret for this one too.

Regards - Andrew

MartinD

02-14-2008, 03:38 PM

Hi James,

It might be an obvious answer to my question,. but what did you use to saw off the return roller brackets? The cut is very small it seems.

Cheers, and thanks

MartinD

Panzergrenadier

02-14-2008, 04:34 PM

What can I say....Stugalicious. :D

Kreighshoer

02-14-2008, 05:00 PM

you are really beating the shit out of this kit james! i'll follow this one very closely ... great start! :thumb:

cheers

James Tainton

02-14-2008, 06:28 PM

John and Andrew- thanks for the reminder. While I did have in mind the need for a narrower width track (will use ATL-02 Friuls, incidentally as I'm sure you know, incorrectly labeled 36cm {really should say 38 but measurement did not take into account pin width}) I forgot about the need for the earlier narrower tired road wheels. I t is interesting to see that some pics show some Panzer III/F's with a combination of narrow and wider tired wheels. I wonder if this ever occurred on this early StuG? In these pics from the imfamous book by Gary L. Simpson on Wittman, there are some good pics of his StuG A. It seems there may have been some mixing on this pic. It is hard to tell really but it does seem almost plausible. It does appear there are quite a few damaged/stripped tires on this vehicle in this one pic. It also has that nose down look - due to busted suspension parts. However on other photos it appears the wheels are all the same type?
I will play it safe probably and just go with the narrower kit provided versions. I have decided to go ahead with the Wittman markings as with the front spare track(is that a wider gauge track?) and the stowage rack on the back it will make for a more interesting build. The Engel vehicle in the pics from the book 7000 kms, is pretty straight forward, the main modelling feature being accentuating the torn up fenders that show up in contemporary pics of his mount in France.

Rick the book has not been read by me yet- but that being said it is mostly about big BW photographs in any case- more pics than text to be sure.

Martin, all I very carefully used was a fresh single sided razor blade.

Thanks everyone else for your interest.

Now the previously mentioned pics.
the wheel on the back looks different that the front one?
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/photos/witt's.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/photos/wittwheels.jpg

hard to say otherwise- these all seem to be the same type of road wheel?
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/photos/witt's3.jpg

is the track slung on the front a wider later type?
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/photos/witt's6.jpg

the back rack
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/photos/witt's5.jpg

panamadan

02-14-2008, 07:00 PM

I am also going to replace the road wheels , suspension arms, dampers, return rollers, and final drives using the two A sprues from the Panzer III L kit by Tamiya ( I will order replacements for that kit eventually).

the road wheels and suspension arms are sharper in the Tamiya kit as well.
https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/1/1web/DML_Tamfront.jpg

I will have to add the stiffening tubes on the Tamiya insides, as well I will be adding the Aber etched-brass rings that will simulate the ones that are on the real road wheel interiors.

But the DML wheels have that cute dimple in the hub's center! Dan

Larry Bates

02-14-2008, 10:47 PM

Great subject James,

This one will look kick ass.:thumb:

Laz

BTW, digg the muzik:thumb:

James Tainton

02-15-2008, 06:45 PM

couple of shots to show that there was no mechanical "nose drop" do to weight issues. If any "drop" is seen- it is the illusion created by the design lines of the vehicle. Later longer gunned Stugs may have had some tilting due to the weight of the longer gun barrel. :):)
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/photos/nonosedive.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/photos/nonosedive2.jpg

James Tainton

03-03-2008, 03:15 PM

So I have taken the Aber inner ring set and added them to the DML wheels. It was a bit of a task as the fit of the rings is pretty tight compared to the fit on the Tamiya wheels, which I think perhaps these are the wheels this Aber set may have been designed for? After all the work I wonder if the set was worth it as the outer circumference of the Aber set and the inner part of the DML wheels almost are the same so the inner ring effect is really not that noticeable. If I were to do it again, I would skip the Aber set.

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/instructions/rings.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/DSCF0002.JPG.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/DSCF0003.JPG.jpg

I filled the little dents on the hubcaps with some auto body glaze putty, the same stuff as you get with Green Stuff.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/DSCF0006.JPG.jpg

painted out with a real red primer colour spray bomb decanted into the airbrush cup.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/DSCF0007.JPG.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/DSCF0097.JPG.jpg

Larry Bates

03-04-2008, 10:56 AM

:thumb: Yea, paint.:thumb:

Laz

skeletondude

03-04-2008, 11:41 AM

Nice work Mr.Tainton! :thumb:

Marek

lquah

03-04-2008, 11:46 AM

Very cool James :thumb:
LQ

RickLawler

03-04-2008, 12:22 PM

Nice James. The inner rings may or may not be visable in the end, but it's that type of attention to details which you do on every build that inspires me.

thanks,

robertkru

03-04-2008, 02:45 PM

James Tainton

03-04-2008, 03:20 PM

Well thank you kindly Gentlemen for the words of encouragement. As I have a little free time here in the morning, sipping my big jar of homemade stove top espresso latte, I'll give you all a little update. Here is a taste of what I have in the background...CLICK ME Juniour Kimbrough (https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/Music/02%20I%20Feel%20Good,%20Little%20Girl.m4a)
I decided to use the complete Aber fender set for this build. I have used them before, on the troubled Pzkw III/E build, but that was a while ago so it is like doing them fresh. An added cost of $25.00 or so.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/instructions/fenders3.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/instructions/fenders.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/instructions/fenders2.jpg

Here is one frame detached from the PE fret.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---028.jpg

one has the outer edge folded up, one needs to do this one first. The inner fold is a straight ahead 90 degree deal, the outer one has a round edge. Some work needs to be done with this to get it right.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---029.jpg

you can see the three or so score marks where the curve is to go.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---030.jpg

first step I took was to place the part into the etchmate and fold up the the edge on the inner-most score mark 90 degrees.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---031.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---033.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---034.jpg

it's a bit wavy but more work will be done yet so it doesn't matter here.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---035.jpg

next using a blunt ended tool , here a scribing tool from my etching days, the curved edge is worked into the metal. The frame is worked on top of the card insert that comes with the PE set, it has enough firmness and give to get the job done.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---036.jpg

a Letraset tool can be seen here as well as the scriber. It has a bit of a blunter end. I actually ended up using a home made tool consisting of a piece of 1mm brass rod stuck into the chuck of a pin vise. The end was rounded of course. This worked pretty good.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---037.jpg

the two frames ready to have the top plate mounted.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---038.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---040.jpg

here you can see I have tinned the frame where the top plate will sit. The underside of the plate was brushed with flux.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---041.jpg

I stuck straight pins into the two holes along the length of the two parts so they lined up properly and just quickly tacked them together. Here is further along after where I am solidifying the soldered parts working from underneath, using the tweezers to apply pressure to ensure contact.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---042.jpg

letting the bond cool...
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---043.jpg

done
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---044.jpg

James Tainton

03-04-2008, 03:31 PM

a few sloppy areas where the solder wandered but under paint- won't be seen.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---045.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---046.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---047.jpg

comparing to the plastic parts. One of the reasons to use the Aber set is on the kit fender the drivers side one has a mounting for a NoteK light that needs to be removed. When you do this a flat spot is the result.
That one bad silver spot was where during the rounding of the edge I actually went through the metal. I had to use the lead solder as a filler and some got on the upper plate. The solder was globbed on the breach and then filed and sanded like regular filler.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---048.jpg

Here you can see I have added all the little parts to the left hand side fender that the support rods sit on.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---049.jpg

some are a bit cleaner than others but it'll all look okay once the paint goes on.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---050.jpg

I 'll demonstrate the process with the other side. The parts are on the tree,
https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---051.jpg

obverse side.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---052.jpg

gettin' the flux on...
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---053.jpg

next the tinning
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---054.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---055.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---056.jpg

using a new scalpel blade one can carefully cut the part off. Better to scribe lightly several times than to try and cut through all at one go.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---057.jpg

but even so there may be a little excess that needs to go away.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---058.jpg

I use my old Hold and Fold as a Hold and File.
Placing the part in it and securing it allows me to file the spur of metal off. fairly precisely.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---059.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---060.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---062.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---061.jpg

James Tainton

03-04-2008, 03:46 PM

Hi James
You should use the wider Tamiya road wheels!! All Stug A were delivered with smaller road wheels. But because of high abrasion of rubber the troops start to replace the wheels even in French campaign. I know pics with 3 wide wheels at the front or all wheel changed in France. I guess most Stug A in Russia had even replaced the track to wider one (20mm spacers in the middle of gear wheel and track change possible) If you use the small wheels then you should think about darkgrey/brown camouflage
Regards from Vienna
Robert

Interesting... it sort of confirms what I seem to see in this pic of Wittman's mount, the very back end wheel seems to be large and wider? Maybe even the back two, with the more forward one having most of the tire stripped off? It seems to have a deeper dish than the ones in front of it. But maybe it's just the most rear one...
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/photos/wittwheels.jpg

I wonder if you can share with us the source of your comment about replacement wheels and the photos you speak of, naming the source. I think I will add a few of the later ones just to cover my ass, but for the most part use the early ones.;)

James Tainton

03-04-2008, 09:31 PM

So then next step is to paint a little flux on the tread plate where the part needs to go.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---063.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---063.jpg

I'm doing one on the edge as a demo.
now I try and hold the part in place with a pair of tweezers, easier said than done.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---065.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---066.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---067.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---068.jpg

Just to be sure of a good joint I also heat it from underneath.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---069.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---070.jpg

to help line up the middle ones I take a freshly sharpened drafting pencil and a metal ruler and draw some lines where the position of these will be.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---071.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---072.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---073.jpg

Flak

03-05-2008, 07:03 AM

Great soldering SBS progress :thumb:

Sticky

03-05-2008, 07:41 AM

Looks good James. Did you know that graphite is an antiflux? IE where you put it soldier wont flow?

Larry Bates

03-05-2008, 10:31 AM

Looks good James. Did you know that graphite is an antiflux? IE where you put it soldier wont flow? :eek::eek:

Interesting..............

Nice freekin soldering James. Good to see you back in full swing :thumb:

Laz

RickLawler

03-05-2008, 11:36 AM

Super Soldering, James.

James Tainton

03-05-2008, 01:14 PM

Did you know that graphite is an antiflux? IE where you put it soldier wont flow? No I didn't, :( but then I'm not a dentist :o and when I Googled "graphite is an antiflux", what profession seemed to be attached to that fact.
So in any case I have learned something useful there, as have others, thanks for the tip Sticky.

Sticky

03-05-2008, 02:40 PM

Glad to be of service.

James Tainton

03-06-2008, 02:14 PM

So even with the graphite boo boo not withstanding here is the left side fender again, it is time now to add the support/mounting rods.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---074.jpg

I use 1mm brass rod even thought the Aber instructions ask for plastic- I don't want these suckers to break off.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---091.jpg

I actually did this twice- you guys often only see a compressed version of events. The first try what I did was just solder the rods in place without first filing the outside end into the characteristic slant nor measuring the actual length. This work was done after the rod was soldered in place. It worked okay but as I went done the line it became harder and harder to keep the slant consistent and because they were already in place there was little room for mistakes.
I also cut the inside end off to the right size with pincers and finished it off nicely. The length was determined by fitting the rod into the mounting bracket that is included in the Aber set.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---077.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---076.jpg

You can see here that it kinda got outta hand on the slant...
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---078.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---079.jpg

here is the Dremel with the steel wool in the chuck that I use to clean in tough to reach places. Got to be careful here.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---080.jpg

how it goes is first take some steel wool
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---081.jpg

twist into a cylinder
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---082.jpg

feed it into the chuck
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---083.jpg

cut the end off
https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---084.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---085.jpg

secure with top part of the chuck
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---086.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---087.jpg

cut it down to a nice workable nub. If it's too long centrifigual force will whip it apart.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---088.jpg

now you can clean up excess solder.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---089.jpg

RickLawler

03-06-2008, 06:44 PM

James Tainton

03-06-2008, 07:00 PM

CLICK ME (https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/Music/16%20Copperhead%20Road.mp3)
Thanks Rick- ya I think I was being lazy on the first go round. I did think of doing angle on the rods first before attaching, IIRC I think that's how I did the Panzer III fenders, but I thought I'd try a different route this time. But... oh well like you say live and learn. It could be done but it takes a lot of care- too much compared to getting the angle first before soldering in place. Anyways- after taking a look at it I removed the first set of rods by reheating the rods with the solder tool and that loosened up the joins. Of course several of the little resting places came off or moved so some time was spent rectifying that - but its all good.
In the next round I used the Dremel tool with an abrasive attachment to get the right look and angle.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---093.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---094.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---096.jpg

It sits just so...
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---097.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---098.jpg

The drill is to pre coat the bottom of the rod with solder,
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---099.jpg

once in place the heat is brought in...
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---100.jpg

and there it is. The inner end needs to be snipped and filed flat.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---101.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---102.jpg

here is the job almost done on one side. You may notice the second rod in on the right- it didn't look right and was replaced.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---103.jpg

put to bed.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---104.jpg

RickLawler

03-06-2008, 07:42 PM

Bitchin'

Sticky

03-06-2008, 07:55 PM

Looks good. I had the same issue with the little holders on my StuG E fenders, I couldn't think of a good way to use a heat sink to hold everything in place, so I had to fiddle with it just like you until it was in place. Wish there was a way to spot weld brass.

panamadan

03-06-2008, 09:28 PM

Could these fenders be cast up in resin? Would they be able to handle the casting process? Dan

James Tainton

03-06-2008, 09:37 PM

You know I really haven't found I need to use heat sinks. Not too much problem with the small seating parts- I just fluxed, put in place with tweezer, held in place with tweezer tip, heat and there ya go, Bob's your Uncle. No real reactivating problem.:thumb:

Next up is a pic of some useful items I was finally able to track down at the Radioshack shop. They might work good to hold things in place and act a heat sink.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---105.jpg

Both sides roughed in.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---106.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---107.jpg

here you can see a folded up fender rod support body mount piece. This will be used to get the right length
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---110.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---108.jpg.

marking with a felt to get a rough idea.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---111.jpg

after trimming and filing flat the whole fender assembly gets a good cleaning, first with the Dremel/steel wool.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---112.jpg

then a cleaning with an old brush and lacquer thinner.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---113.jpg

blown clean with airbrush, making sure all grease and steel wool remnants gone.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---114.jpg

and ready to get the tool clasps and mud flaps added.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/2/Stug-III---115.jpg

lquah

03-06-2008, 10:38 PM

James

Super SBS. It will definitely be very useful for guys who are new to soldering.

An alternative to remove excess solder is to use a fibreglass pen (tip by RC).

John, Marco uses small pieces of wet tissues strategically placed to draw away the heat. Give it a try.

LQ

RickLawler

03-06-2008, 11:40 PM

James

Super SBS. It will definitely be very useful for guys who are new to soldering.

LQ

...and the not so new, also!!! :)

An alternative to remove excess solder is to use a fibreglass pen
---- available at art stores.

Sticky

03-07-2008, 06:56 AM

Kewl! Becareful with fiberglass pens. Wear a mask and gloves, the roken fibers get into your fingers and lungs and can cause harm. I use a brass fiber pen, similar to the Fiberglass one, I also have a soft steel bristle brush that fits in the moto tool.

Wet tissue - what a great idea! Thanks Lawrence!

Andrew Hall

03-07-2008, 12:40 PM

Excellente stuff James, looks damn fine with the brass instead of plastic rod.

Those croc clips are great for heat sinks or holding parts while you solder, I bought some similar over here a while ago. Wooden clothes pegs (is that what you call them over there, for hanging out washing) are useful too.

Got to echo John on the fibreglass pen, had a bit in my eye a few years ago...ouch! I now use them under water...the pen's under the water, not me of course..

Andrew

Larry Bates

03-08-2008, 12:53 PM

Hi James,

Nice sbs .........

I also discovered those little clips could make excellent heat sinks, and won't destroy delicate work.

Laz

Evan August

03-08-2008, 02:20 PM

Looking good James!

James Tainton

03-10-2008, 06:30 PM

Once again, James, nice finger-burnin' SBS! The steel wool scrubber looks like a nifty tool, gotta give that one a try.

So am I to understand that you had already soldered all of the 1mm rods in place before you did the slants? That really does seem like it would be a more difficult way than doing it (as opposed to formimg the slant before installation). I can see how it would be tough to get the slant consistant and also not to damage the fender corners...live and learn I guess.

Thanks for taking the time to show off you solder and brass work...appreciate it muchly.

Hey Rick I just saw this over at Sergiusz Peczek's (http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4594) awesome StuG thread. He seems to have trimmed after positioning-- I guess I wasn't too off-base? Seems to be a viable way to do it? (If one is skilled enough :p):thumb:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/sergionex/Stug%20III%20Ausf%20B/th_0a3c17d8.jpg (http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/sergionex/Stug%20III%20Ausf%20B/0a3c17d8.jpg)

The soldered on girder.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/sergionex/Stug%20III%20Ausf%20B/th_1077ca5d.jpg (http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/sergionex/Stug%20III%20Ausf%20B/1077ca5d.jpg)

I cut off the rod under proper angle.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/sergionex/Stug%20III%20Ausf%20B/th_e6187117.jpg (http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/sergionex/Stug%20III%20Ausf%20B/e6187117.jpg)

And polish with file.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/sergionex/Stug%20III%20Ausf%20B/th_1c29e21f.jpg (http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/sergionex/Stug%20III%20Ausf%20B/1c29e21f.jpg)

James Tainton

04-13-2008, 02:55 PM

Taking a look at the final drive cover, I am considering my options.
A drawing from Achtung Panzer.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/apfinaldrive.jpg

Modelkasten looks good but would they be appropriate for the A version?
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/MKdirections.jpg

here is the parts. The Modelkasten and Tamiya ones are very similar,looking like the one in the AP drawing. The Tamiya one has a sand mold cast texture? The DML has a different shape with an extra point on the circumference, which is not in the Achtung Panzer drawing.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/finaldrive.jpg

Sticky

04-13-2008, 04:27 PM

I used the Tamiya one on my A. It has the best texture. I just added the MK drain plugs.

James Tainton

04-16-2008, 10:32 PM

Okay so taking John's suggestion I will use the Tamiya ones. But I want them for the Original Tamiya Panzer III kit too. :(

So what to do? I know I'll make a mold and create some resin copies. :p

I hadn't had any RTV but the show I'm on has some in the model shop so I borrowed some from them. It is a cheaper blue variety but great for this project.
Here is the mold set up using the ubiquitous Lego. Sanded the locating pins and then tack glued the parts in a couple of spots to a piece of thicker Evergreen sheet plastic. Fitted it into a Lego box and sealed the edges with plasticine.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/Album-1---1.jpg

Here I've mixed the 1:10 RTV and poured it into the mold. Just set it aside and let it be overnight to cure.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/Album-1---2.jpg

In the morning the mold after pulling the casted parts out.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/Album-1---3.jpg

I had some old 2 part casting resin- not sure if it would kick.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/Album-1---4.jpg

The chemicals are still good.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/Album-1---6.jpg

It solidified perfectly. I let it sit for a bit to harden up before taking out of the mold.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/Album-1---7.jpg

A little judicious sanding and Bob's your Uncle.:D
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/Album-1---8.jpg

Sticky

04-16-2008, 10:50 PM

That's the ticket!

RickLawler

04-16-2008, 11:31 PM

I gotta do that sometime, anything with Lego's is OK in my world...thanks for the little sbs, James.

BTW - what show you on now?

brokeneagle

04-17-2008, 09:31 PM

Very interesting ......good stuff James

James Tainton

04-19-2008, 04:57 PM

Got some goodies to help make this a more expensive and interesting build.
an Armorscale mantlet and barrel
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/amorscale_barrel.jpg

and some Friulmodel Sprocket wheels. There is a minimal amount of flash and some deformation due to the shipping method, plastic bag, but a little careful bending and all will be good as new.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/friulsprocket.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/3/friulsprocket2.jpg

Evan August

04-19-2008, 07:21 PM

Gotta love Armorscale barrels. Will your cast final drives take the sprockets, or will some modification be in order?

James Tainton

04-21-2008, 11:46 PM

Will your cast final drives take the sprockets, or will some modification be in order?

I don't think I need to do too much. There is a pin that come with the Friulmodel sprocket, and it fits the Tamiya final drive cover fine.
There is a tiny bit of an issue on the inside face of the sprocket coming in contact with the final drive cover but I will try a few things to rectify this.

On the weekend I messed around a bit to get an idea of how this will all go together. First -just to see how the original part sits in relation to the hull side I put it in place and traced around it.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---06.jpg

I then took the Tamiya item, too which I have glued the ModelKasten part the goes between the final drive and the side of the hull.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---02.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---03.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---04.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---05.jpg

the tube coming off the hull on the DML part needs to be trimmed.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---07.jpg

Dry fit with sprocket wheel.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---08.jpg

I like the fact that there is no hub cap on these FM wheels.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---09.jpg

here is the pin dry fit
https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---10.jpg

https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---11.jpg

the Tamiya item is a tiny bit lower
and will need to have some adjustment for the previously mentioned clearance.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---12.jpg

Tried this as an attempt but it didn't work as I am also going to recast this part (-that is the final drive, the gasket and the two drain port nuts) of the model and this addition creates some under cuts that will be a problem in the mold and cast part release.

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---13.jpg

James Tainton

04-22-2008, 12:00 AM

another aspect of the kit that needed some attention the bullet deflector that is molded onto the kit part. Here a view of the real item
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/2007-06-01-033.jpg

Dragon mistakenly made the profile as a stepped surface when in fact it is more like flat bar steel welded in place.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---14.jpg

in this pic you can also see the new final drive setup that I will be casting, sans the metal pin.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---15.jpg

Basically some good old fashioned scraping & sanding was called for.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---16.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---17.jpg

here is the new mold set up ready to go.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---18.jpg

a trick I use to get rid of bubbles in the RTV is give the base of the mold some vibration via the electric toothbrush minus the tooth brush.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---19.jpg

I had some extra RTV sitting in the mixing cup so I made up a quick little mold dam around one of the Tamiya Panzer III return roller mounting stations.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---20.jpg

Stuke Sowle

04-22-2008, 12:13 PM

Great mods and add-on's James. Makes me want to break out my half finished StuG ausf. D. I love the look of the early ones.

I had noticed that bullet deflector as well and was going to just let it be as is. I'm keen to see how you correct it.

James Tainton

04-23-2008, 09:23 AM

Here are some shots of the mold and cast process.
The final look of the mold.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---21.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---22.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---23.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---25.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---26.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---27.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---28.jpg

and the final result.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/2nd-casting.jpg

Sticky

04-23-2008, 09:49 PM

Looks Great!

Andrew Hall

04-24-2008, 06:59 AM

I've been missing all this. Nice casting James.

Andrew

greybeard

04-24-2008, 09:59 AM

Uh oh. I prayed to the wrong gods and ended up on the Dark Side. I am not going to stay here (I hope) but I saw some amazing stuff . . .

James, first, I am very glad to see you using latex gloves when working with raw resin. Too many people take this stuff for granted, but it is very nasty stuff when used carelessly. I have a couple of friends who have some rather serious health problems today because they chose to not follow the material handling instructions that come with the resin. Guys, DO NOT LET THIS STUFF TOUCH YOUR SKIN! To be blunt, you may not live to see your grandchildren. Smoking tobacco is safer! Nah! Smoking plastic is probably safer!

Moving along, James, what your doing here is (again) awesome. I am huge impressed. Hat's off, full kudos! Mayhaps next time I come through Vancouver I may bang hard on your door and demand to see the real McCoy, just to be sure this is not PhotoShop magic, but I know it isn't, truth, but your craftmanship or artistry or balls-out philosophy that "good enough" is not good enough sets me back on my heels. Respect.

I've been building models forever, over forty years, and there was once a time when I thought I built pretty good models. In truth, I have a drawer full of ribbons, but when I see this, and the work of some of the other regulars here, I am humbled. It's like I'm still using a hideous brush to paint my models with Testor's Gloss Emerald Green at 15¢ per jar. Wow. I may take up skeet shooting, but instead of clay pidgeons, I would launch my own feeble efforts instead, blow them to bits, and take up needlepoint.

I won't, because I love modelling, and history, and I get weak at the knees when I see a perfect miniature snapshot of history. That's what turns my crank. You do that, as does (fill in the blank — I name no names lest I leave anyone out) and it gets my juices flowing.

I thank you, and the others here, from the bottom of my heart, for breathing life into these stale plastic bits, and making the whole so exquisite, and so alive. It takes passion, and a rare talent, and you do it so well.

Scott Fraser

James Tainton

04-27-2008, 02:24 AM

Thanks Guys for the compliments. The casting is really quite a basic exercise mostly- and you might say nice things about my effort - but - I screwed up. The drain nuts are in the wrong place- I should have looked at the Panzer Tracts drawings and not the MK instructions. They need to be moved forward one position. So I have used a SSRB to cut the nuts off and repositioned them, and will now make a new mold for future FD covers. I will just use one were I have moved the resin bolts for one of the sides to keep moving forward. I also wanted to make another mold of the return roller mount, and I also made one of the suspension bumper things.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---33.jpg

I could use my mold of the return roller mounts to make six replacements but a fellow modeller out east was kind enough to full fill an earlier request for some copies of his mold prior to me having access to some RTV. Thanks Gary!

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---29.jpg

I glued the suspension arms in place as well as the return roller mounts, which were positioned as per the PT drawing.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---32.jpg

Evan August

04-27-2008, 03:35 AM

Nice progress, but what's a SSRB? Looks like you may have some clean up to do yet in front of the first return roller mounting...

Panzergrenadier

04-27-2008, 06:09 AM

Super stuff James!

James Tainton

04-28-2008, 01:22 AM

Nice progress, but what's a SSRB? Looks like you may have some clean up to do yet in front of the first return roller mounting...

The molds worked out okay but I should have put some air release lines made with some small plastic rod attached to the bottom of the dampers as I get air bubbles when I just pour the casting resin in. I could do it over but I may just inject the resin with a need and syringe.
The FD ones are better but I again missed the mark- I need to redo a set again but this time one for the left and one for the right, these last two only ended up being good for one side- live and learn.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---34.jpg

I took rushed picture, (and thus out of focus) to show Evan that the "clean up" is only a visual ghost in the plastic of the return roller mount that I removed. The surface is smooth, I assure you.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/4/stug-III_A---35.jpg

A SSRB... Single Sided Razor Blade.
http://www.fullam.com/images/tools/526601.jpg

RickLawler

04-28-2008, 08:47 AM

A SSRB... Single Sided Razor Blade.
Ooooh Technical!!!! Learn something everyday. :D

Love the casting SBS's James, it's just what the doctor ordered....thanks!!!!!

:)

Sticky

04-28-2008, 11:05 AM

James you are now King of the casting!

AfRiKaKoRpS

04-28-2008, 04:52 PM

Thank you very much for sharing your skills James. Your thread is very informative and the casting you have done looks superb.

Chris

James Tainton

05-03-2008, 12:56 AM

Thanks fellas-
here is how the driver's side is looking.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Last-Import---7.jpg

James Tainton

05-06-2008, 09:18 AM

Here is the Friulmodel drive wheels all glued up and assembled. I used 5 minute epoxy to stick them together.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---117.jpg

The right side with the return rollers and other suspension parts added.
The drive wheels are test fitted and all is well.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---118.jpg

Using some de-canted ZINC CHROMATE PRIMER GREEN metal spray paint I primed the white metal drive wheels.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---119.jpg

As I want to get the lower suspension done before moving on to the upper areas I sprayed the lower hull and suspension parts on the sides and bootom, using Extracolor Schwartzgrau for the sides and red primer for the underside. No primer was used, as I will be giving these area another coat, this this first thinnish coat is the primer.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---120.jpg

the other side sprayed as well.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---121.jpg

Mark S. Pryor

05-06-2008, 07:00 PM

Dear James,

Your attention to detail and casting is impressive.:thumb:
I have a question concerning;

Using some de-canted ZINC CHROMATE PRIMER GREEN metal spray paint I primed the white metal drive wheels.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---119.jpg

why de-cant the primer and not just use it stright from the can?
Mark

James Tainton

05-06-2008, 10:22 PM

Dear James,

Your attention to detail and casting is impressive.:thumb:
I have a question concerning;

why de-cant the primer and not just use it straight from the can?
Mark

Hi Mark, the reason is control. I only want to apply a small amount of paint the surface of these wheels. By decanting a small amount into my airbrush cup, (like a tablespoon... if that), I can control the volume and thickness of the coat of paint far better with the airbrush than with a spray can. And this is a crucial requirement because I wish to preserve as much of surface detail such as the bolt heads for example.;)

So more progress to report,
time to work on the armour plate along the upper back that I cut off the kit part. First thing I did was to put the partitions that goes into the opening at the back of the lower hull, air intake if I'm not mistaken, I'll have to check my references...:o
This will help me figure out what to do next.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---122.jpg

I also glued the top hull part into place as well so it will help line things up.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---126.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---123.jpg

Using the drawing from the Panzertracts book on Panzer III's as a guide I measured and cut the proper angle onto the piece of Evergreen sheet. and glued it in place.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---125.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---127.jpg

Stuke Sowle

05-07-2008, 02:31 PM

Well at first I wanted to get out my ol' StuG and work on it, but not I just want to trash it. :) Your's is umpteen times better looking already!

Mark S. Pryor

05-07-2008, 07:56 PM

Gracias Senior, Neat trick. :cool:

Mark

James Tainton

05-07-2008, 09:25 PM

Well at first I wanted to get out my ol' StuG and work on it, but not I just want to trash it. :) Your's is umpteen times better looking already!

Stuke- haven't heard from you for awhile good to see you posting again.
I think you should get out the ol Stug and get 'er done.:thumb: I'm not sure how mine could be all that great as I really haven't done much yet!:rolleyes:

So another little update. First thing is I painted the road wheels with the Extraclor gray.
Also I painted the sprocket wheel centers with a primer red.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---124.jpg

I also decided to try aging the wheels down a little with some damage and nicks.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---128.jpg

here the tires have been painted with my usual Polly Scale Grimy Black. Just a test fit.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/5/Stug-III---129.jpg

RickLawler

05-07-2008, 10:23 PM

And on the 8th Day James Created....

Been a few updates since I strode by to take a gander.....my bad 'cuz I"ve been missing out on some nice work. The new castings look great under paint!

rick

AfRiKaKoRpS

05-08-2008, 05:22 PM

Castings looked so great almost shame it had to be covered with paint ;)
Seriously very nice work James and moving smooth to the final chapter James. Nice SBS as always. Thank you for great work James.

Chris

Driver

05-08-2008, 08:15 PM

That casting looks way much better than some of the commercially produced ones in the market; have you thought of selling parts? :)

James Tainton

06-08-2008, 01:46 AM

So here is an update:
I decided to replace the flange at the back with some strips of plastic. The one molded on the kit is like a solid piece where as the real flange had a upper and lower part- held together with bolts. Also the piece I added did not seem to be positioned correctly, being a titch proud of the upper bit of armour on the upper hull. It took a couple of tries to get it right but in the end I got a result that I can live with.
Here I have stripped it back to the lovers. I should have glued those in in the first place so as to help with the alignment. Oh well you can learn from my mistake.;)
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---131.jpg

I have added the lower back end of the hull as well as the piece of plastic for the back armour, lower.
Also the molded on bits that were for the tow cable stowage have been scraped and sanded off the back upper engine deck.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---135.jpg

I had to use some putty to fill the joint of the back armour plate I added.
I used Calibre 35 bolts and nuts for representing the securing hardware. Two different sizes were used one for the vertical bolts and one for the horizontal. Holes were drilled for the vertical pieces of plastic strip/flange and the under side of the horizontal flange. I used the drawing in Panzertracts on the Strumgeshütz for the correct positioning of the bolts.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---137.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---140.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---141.jpg

added the rear idler wheel axle/track tension adjuster. The axle and adjustment rod are not glued in place, so later when the tracks are on I can adjust the tension on the tracks.
The idlers are okay but there are four knock out marks that need to be filled on the out viewable face.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---144.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---148.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---149.jpg

James Tainton

06-08-2008, 02:11 AM

Next, since the top of the upper armour fighting compartment has a different configuration than the molded one that comes with the kit I needed to remove the incorrect panels. These would be replace with the correct set up that is included with the Stug III/A kit.
I used a pin vise drill around the perimeter of the panels.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---146.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---150.jpg

a sink mark on the front left slanted armour needed to be remedied.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---151.jpg

James Tainton

06-08-2008, 02:17 AM

The next session saw the removal of more molded on details on the back of the engine deck and the addition of some plates that will hold the figures that will go into the hatches later.
The gun cradle was added at this point as well.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---152.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---153.jpg

The back plate on the upper "Citadel" was glued on and some putty added, to be sanded smooth later.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---155.jpg

Evan August

06-08-2008, 03:06 AM

Nice work James. I've seen that red putty being used by several modelers now, and I'm curious, what is it, and how does it compare to Green Stuff or Mori Mori?

Sheeds

06-08-2008, 03:56 AM

Neat job on the gunners sight/roof area Jamie, as well as the rear armour plate correction.

Working on these old kits makes you appreciate the new kits (like the DML Panzer III for example) so much more I think. :)

Sheeds.

MartinD

06-08-2008, 06:52 AM

Some nifty modelling there James. I presume you used needle files to remove the remaining bits of the hatch?

Cheers, MartinD

James Tainton

06-08-2008, 10:29 PM

Nice work James. I've seen that red putty being used by several modelers now, and I'm curious, what is it, and how does it compare to Green Stuff or Mori Mori?

Thanks Evan. The red putty I use is a big tube of finishing auto body stuff. Basically the same as Squadron Green stuff, but I think it's better quality and you get a lot more of it.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/General/putty.jpg

Neat job on the gunners sight/roof area Jamie, as well as the rear armour plate correction.

Working on these old kits makes you appreciate the new kits (like the DML Panzer III for example) so much more I think.

Well thanks for the comments Sheeds. I can't wait till the inevitable upgraded kits that will be coming, but it is fun to tinker away on this oldie. I have all the other older Stug kits as well and will try to get those to higher standard than out of the box. Meant to say your Panther and Tiger are looking pretty special too. And the article in the latest AFV Modeller was a great read ta boot.

Some nifty modelling there James. I presume you used needle files to remove the remaining bits of the hatch?

Cheers, MartinD

Thanks Martin :thumb:
I used files, sanding paper, knifes , blow torches... anything I could get my hands on.:D

I haven't been doing much lately in regards to modelling, this picture tells it all:p
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---157.jpg

but I did get some progress down this weekend, just needed some bench therapy.
I did get the Armorscale mantlet and barrel upgrade but while it seemed like a quick glue and go, the spot on the back end of the shield meant to slip in place and glue and go, was a bit problematic. The gun mount cylinder needed to be trimmed back for the proper alignment, according to plan views in the Panzer Tracts book. In the end I figured something out and was happy with it.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---156.jpg

I used the neglected airbrush to spray the interior Tamiya flat black and glued the top citadel onto the lower body.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---159.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---160.jpg

James Tainton

06-08-2008, 10:44 PM

While I was at it I did some other filling that was needed on the outer face of the idlers and one of the front tow pintles.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---163.jpg

Next up was the need to remove all the inaccurate bolts or proud little knibbys that the kit has to represent the screws that attach the upper armour plate to the side armour. I also decided to fill some sink marks that are around the left hatch area.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---165.jpg

I have both a set of Elephant, (pictured) screw heads and Aber ones. I ended up the Aber ones as they seemed to have the best size for this purpose.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---167.jpg

At this point I finally added the four conical bolts that replace the kits blunter versions., This is a shot before any clean up.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---169.jpg

Also made some additional molds for mountings for the back of the Stug mantlet, using the Tamiya ones from their Stug III as the subjects.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---171.jpg

Back to the screw head job. After cutting the nibs off I drilled out a hole in the exact spot that will hold the Aber bit.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---172.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---173.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---174.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---175.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---176.jpg

I decided the middle piece of armour plate at the front was too thin when looking at ref photos, I probably scraped too much off when I was scrapping the bullet splash gaurd back.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---177.jpg

Sheeds

06-09-2008, 01:32 AM

Thanks for the kind words dude. :)

The screw heads make a fair difference to the look of the armour plate. It's one of those seemingly unimportant/small details that add to the "wow" of the build. You don't notice them at first, and that increases the slow burn impact of your model.

Sheeds.

Gopher

06-09-2008, 01:52 AM

great progress!

James Tainton

06-09-2008, 09:28 AM

Thanks for the words guys. Another little update showing work done on the weekend.
Poured the molds with some RTV rubber,
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---180.jpg

Went around with some thinned down putty - hitting any gaps I saw. The stuff on the back is leftover RTV rubber that I poured loose onto the hinges on the back of the engine deck.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---178.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---179.jpg

here are a few of the recent molds made.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---184.jpg

Here is a picture showing the drivers klappe cover. I used one from the new Dragon kit, (which will be replaced with one made of resin cast from one of these molds.)
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---185.jpg

These are the rear storage boxes that come with the kit. I will take a look at scratching some nicer ones.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---186.jpg

Staring to fill out is our little guy, with side armour and air ducting bits going in place.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---183.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---187.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---188.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---189.jpg

Here is a look at my first of several attempts at replacing the bullet splash guard. I had to cut some strips from .010 thick plastic sheet. The width was 1.25 mm. I used 11 strips to get the right fit.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---191.jpg

the fourth or so try- it's the keeper.
Also added a weld seam right in front of the strips.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/7/Stug-III---192.jpg

Sticky

06-09-2008, 09:52 AM

Looks good James. Since you are going for it you may want to replace the brake access hatch hinges as they are seriously undersized on the DML kits.

Markus

06-09-2008, 04:31 PM

Nice one James!
The III A is one of my favorites beside the G, so I can´t wait for updates!
One thing besides the hatches John told you about, you could depict the screws that hold the armor plates on the left and right side of the casematte (hope this is the right word for it... I mean the angled armor plates on the compartment). This is something most modellers forget about.
I used to have some nice pics a friend of mine gave me when I built my A, but can´t find them at the moment. But I think in "Achtung Panzer" there are some drawings of them.

P.S. Under the mantlet there was a wire loop welded that held the cover for the muzzle brake, maybe you could add this too. ;)

RickLawler

06-09-2008, 04:50 PM

Wow, James. Mighty impressive stuff.
These are the rear storage boxes that come with the kit. I will take a look at scratching some nicer ones.

I would think these would be a great candidate for a little brass scratch, aye? ;)

Rick

Radek Pituch

06-09-2008, 06:22 PM

Well James...
All this looks just terrific! Great attention to details. Wish I could be able to do such upgrades to my kits...
Radek

James Tainton

06-09-2008, 07:25 PM

Looks good James. Since you are going for it you may want to replace the brake access hatch hinges as they are seriously undersized on the DML kits.
Okay - can you suggest a source for those John ;) I would guess the Tamiya Stug III/B has good ones I can make a mold from?

I would think these would be a great candidate for a little brass scratch, aye?
Yep that's what I was thinking. Any idea what would go inside?:cool: BTW how did you get the article deal with MMIR-you got there before me! (Congrats Rick)

Nice one James!
The III A is one of my favorites beside the G, so I can´t wait for updates!
One thing besides the hatches John told you about, you could depict the screws that hold the armor plates on the left and right side of the casematte (hope this is the right word for it... I mean the angled armor plates on the compartment). This is something most modellers forget about.
I used to have some nice pics a friend of mine gave me when I built my A, but can´t find them at the moment. But I think in "Achtung Panzer" there are some drawings of them.

P.S. Under the mantlet there was a wire loop welded that held the cover for the muzzle brake, maybe you could add this too.

Thanks for the heads up Marcus- will add them details...:thumb:

Sticky

06-09-2008, 07:39 PM

Yep the Tamiya B has the perfect hatches.

James Tainton

06-09-2008, 08:42 PM

Yep the Tamiya B has the perfect hatches.

Order sent- should hope to get one by the weekend?:thumb:

James Tainton

06-19-2008, 05:19 PM

Order sent- should hope to get one by the weekend?:thumb:

Don't you love it when they say they'll send it right away on one email- and then you get another days later saying that it will come later cause the guy never really had in stock and needed to get one in first... so much for saving time ordering online- next time I'll just check all the hobby stores in town.:mad:

Anyways - a bit of an update. Here you can see I've attached the corresponding vertical strips to the bullet splash guard area.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---193.jpg

once these were nice and cured I used a snipper, knife and sandpaper to trim them back, in place.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---194.jpg

I also added some perhaps over the top weld beads, (which may get tweaked or replaced), and some of the slightly larger screw heads to the driver's side side armour.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---197.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---196.jpg

Next I added the right hand side's side armour piece.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---195.jpg

However after that I noticed in a Ground Power drawing that the way the old DML kit had the angles of these armour plates was incorrect, according to the drawing. The Dragon part has the angle of the front piece coming forward, while the drawing shows it going back.

Looking at period photos in my references the drawing appears to be correct. So this meant stripping the kit piece off and scratching my own version, using plastic card and good old modelling skills.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/GPdrawing.jpg

WRONG
https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/sidearmour.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---199.jpg

this took a bit of filling and fiddling;)
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---200.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---202.jpg

anthony roberts

06-19-2008, 07:20 PM

Hello James,

Great ! The work is exceptional and I am really impressed by the use of the plastic card..... a post that inspires me to want to work on improving my own skills...thank you.

Tony

James Tainton

06-19-2008, 07:41 PM

Hello James,

Great ! The work is exceptional and I am really impressed by the use of the plastic card..... a post that inspires me to want to work on improving my own skills...thank you.

Tony

Thanks Tony- it is my hope that these SBS are of use to beginner's and more experienced alike. I will say I have much to learn myself about modelling, but these build blogs are really about sharing the experience rather than garnering any accolades for myself.:rolleyes:

It really amazes me the amount of bitching that goes on about newer kits that have relatively few things wrong with them, compared to the older kits... part of the fun for me is getting in there and doing some of the correcting myself. I must say I am more motivated at some points more than others...:p

Anyways - I decided after checking with the drawing and looking at it that this set up just wasn't right so off it came, actually a couple of more tries later I got it where I want it. Trial and error I guess.
back to bare bones....
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---203.jpg

is this collage photo- you can see some of the old school modeling techniques used, such as using the original part for measuring, cutting, and sanding plastic... Gaarrshhhh:D
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---208.jpg

Now that is more like it! I'm going to do a little more work on the gun mantlet too after all...
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---209.jpg

Removed the front hinges (needed to fill some nicks!) in preparation of putting the resin copies of the Tamiya ones... once the kit shows up... dang!
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---212.jpg

Looking at the GP drawing it became clear to me that the rear tow pintle parts should slant inwards a little , not straight back like I thought they should go...
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---213.jpg

Almost there with the side armour- in this test fit you can see I just need to do a little sand, add the screw heads and then the grab handle.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/Stug-III---214.jpg

Striker

06-20-2008, 03:24 AM

nice SBS pictures :)

James Tainton

06-22-2008, 12:43 AM

Glad you like the pics.
Here is the side armour at a point where I can sign off on it. Had to add a little piece of plastic on the back top corner sing some gel CA and then sanded so the top of the armour was flush with the armour underneath at the top. Added the screw head detail as well.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0002.jpg

test fit with the Aber fenders- looks good.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0005.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0090.jpg

fit the right hand side front tow pintle
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0092.jpg

Sticky

06-22-2008, 08:50 AM

Looks good James - You may want to add the screw heads to the front angled plate you made from white card as well.

James Tainton

06-22-2008, 01:26 PM

Looks good James - You may want to add the screw heads to the front angled plate you made from white card as well.

Thanks John. I don't see those in the Ground Power drawing, although it does show the others. Do you have any reference that shows these screws and positions? Thanks:thumb:
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/8/GPdrawing.jpg

Sticky

06-22-2008, 01:31 PM

Let me look

James Tainton

06-22-2008, 02:51 PM

Let me look

Okay after having a closer look myself- I can see one screw that appears to be there. It is on the inside lower corner. Can't really say for sure, yet, if there were others.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/triangle.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/Untitled-1.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/triangle1.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/triangle2.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/triangle3.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/triangle4.jpg

Markus

06-23-2008, 02:46 PM

James Tainton

06-23-2008, 03:16 PM

Hey James,
sweet work on fixing the armor!
You are correct about the one screw on this position, one of the features I missed out on my A, together with the side armor (which still bugs me).
Have a look here: http://historyfacts.biz/de/04_Publikationen/LeseprobeStuGIII2/Leseprobe_StuG3_Band2_Zeichnungen.pdf
It´s one of the drawings from History Facts new StuG book, and be sure, these guys know what they are talking about :).
It´s a C and a D, but that is not an issue as the screws were all the same.
Be careful with the Zieleinrichtung,the A had the Rundblickfernrohr 32, which isn´t part of the DML kit. I scratched it for my kit.

I guess I should say thanks Markus :thumb: although with that drawing it appears I may have more work to do if I want to be 100% accurate with the screws at the back end of the right side, there is a difference of positioning as compared to the GP drawing.:( Oh well better I catch it now than after painting it!

BTW do you have any pics of your gun sight from your build, or any photo of the actual item?

Sticky

06-23-2008, 03:36 PM

Markus beat me! But yep just that one!

RickLawler

06-23-2008, 06:26 PM

RESPECT, James, in every aspect. Thanks for taking us through this with you.

Rick

James Tainton

06-23-2008, 10:12 PM

RESPECT, James, in every aspect. Thanks for taking us through this with you.

Rick

Aw–shucks Rick- ain't nuthin' really:thumb: Glad you are enjoying the build.:)
BTW those rear fender storage boxes,... seems to me from looking at pics of the real items they look like they are made outa wood to me, not metal. Or?.....Still I'll scratch something up.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/box1.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/box2.jpg

John, no worries- it was your heads up that got the ball rolling anyways.:thumb:
BTW-got the Tamiya kit today. I wonder what your opinion of which exhaust is more accurate- the Tamiya one or the DML one?
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/exhast.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/muffler.jpg

Sticky

06-24-2008, 02:43 PM

Me I think the DML ones are better, esp the ones in the New StuG and Pz III kits, but if you can find some Moskit sets, they are the cat's meow!

Markus

06-24-2008, 03:07 PM

Hey James,
do you have the "Achtung Panzer" about the StuGs?
If so, the Rundblickfernrohr can be found on Page 115.
If not, I could take a pic of the page, just shout out loud :).
Here´s my attempt on the Rundblickfernrohr (during build):
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/89/6786889/3632623361336133.jpg
Sadly I don´t have a pic of the finished piece and the StuG is now in the hands of one of my best friends, the guy that is running: www.stug.ch (and co-author from HistoryFacts).

On the exhausts, I have the same opinion as John.
And as far as I know, the boxes have been made from metal.
Check out your second pic, it seems like the lid is bent, which couldn´t happen with wood.
Besides that, every storage box that was fitted to the StuGs (factorywise) was made from metal, so I doubt this one is different.

James Tainton

06-24-2008, 04:59 PM

Thanks guys- I do have the Stug III Ausf. G with the deep wading features, and so it does have a set of exhausts that are not used in the build up of that particular model, can I just use them? They seem a little blockier and flat on the top compared to the old DML ones.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/muffler2.jpg

As for the Stug exhausts from Moskit- been looking but they are pretty rare. Anyone out there not going to use theirs?:D

Do you guys have any good reference for the box construction?
I did write it with a caveat as maybe it was metal after all...
they look like they are made outa wood to me, not metal. Or?.....

So metal is how I will do them... just wish I could see a clear example of how it looked what kind of hinges etc.. I think it would be an interesting detail to maybe have one open and showing the contents. Any guess as to what may have been stored inside?

Thanks for the heads up on the sight Markus- I d have that book and will try my best. BTW any recent releases that may have something like that included? Also checked out the site and saw your Stug III/A looking pretty good dude! Hope mine comes out as well.
http://www.stug.ch/stug/stug3/stug3a/slides/stug3a03.jpg

James Tainton

06-24-2008, 05:16 PM

I guess, from doing a Google search , that the 7.5 cm infantry howitzer had that type of sight?
http://www.jedsite.info/artillery-lima/lima/leig18_series/leig18-series.html

http://www.lonesentry.com/manuals/german-infantry-weapons/75-mm-light-infantry-howitzer.html
I do have an old kit from Verlinden that may have something I can use- but it is in storage so it is not accessible- I'll have to make one I guess. maybe the more recent release from AFV Club would have the same one?
http://www.megahobby.com/productimages/afv/AFV35S24.jpg

Markus

06-24-2008, 05:30 PM

Hey James,
thanks for the kind words about my StuG, I´m sure yours will be way better :).
As to the exhausts, you can use them, they didn´t change through production, the only different was the deep wading equipment.
I will contact History Facts tomorrow, maybe Peter (Wolfgang is in holidays) has some pics or docs about the storage boxes that show their details a bit better.
I could imagine, of course I´m not sure, the new StuG book has some details about the sights as the second part goes in the details and the differences. I don´t want to talk too much, but you could check their site, they got some parts online ;) (only in german at the moment as the translation takes it´s time unfortunately).
One thing came to mind when you were writing about AFV Club´s Howitzer.
Doesn´t AFV, or some other plastic company had a set with sights and stuff? It could well be that the sight is in this set.
I´m not sure if the lFH used the same sight as I know nothing about those. Maybe someone else knows more?
From looking at PMMS it seems like they used the same, which would make sense as the StuGs were used as artillery.
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/afvclub/afv35050d.htm

James Tainton

06-24-2008, 05:41 PM

Markus

06-24-2008, 05:47 PM

No, that sure isn´t the set.
I could swear AFV had a set, I even think in clear plastic, but maybe I was just dreaming as I can´t find it anywhere...
BTW, just wrote a mail to HF with your questions about the boxes. Maybe tomorrow I will know more.

Markus

06-24-2008, 05:49 PM

HA!
Thanks to Google, I found the set:
http://www.modellbau-universe.de/produkt;german-optical-eqipment-set;AF~AC35006;6;1;1;0.htm?ref=affilinet
and here: http://www.missionmodels.com/product.php?productid=96340
It´s set Nr. AF AC35006
Phew...

Sticky

06-24-2008, 07:15 PM

I'm not sure those are the correct sights for the Stug Markus. As to teh boxes I beleive they had piano style hinges on teh bottom front edge - kinda hidden when they are on teh fenders!

Markus

06-25-2008, 12:57 AM

John,
I´m not 100% sure either, but I think one part of the set, third row from below on the outer left, COULD maybe be used. Even then it would need surgery and I´m not sure if the set is worth the money for using just one small part that could be scratched a lot cheaper.
On the boxes, my guess is as good as yours as I think the same. :)

P.S. Did my friend contact you?

Sticky

06-25-2008, 07:31 PM

Yes Markus he, did Thanks!

James Tainton

06-26-2008, 07:29 PM

I'll be taking a close look at this guys, thanks for the input.

Here is something new I want to try- this PE jack set is from Part. I haven't done one before so can't say how accurate they will be in the end but looks pretty good, if labor intensive.:(
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/Untitled-1.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/Untitled-4.jpg

Here is the result of pouring the other half of the mantlet part from Tamiya. I will need to make many copies to get a good one. Probably have to use a syringe and big needle to get te resin into tight areas like the bolt heads.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0004.jpg

The one from the Tamiya Stug B had an airbubble in it- I could use it but decided to try another.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0005.jpg

Casting a resin copy from the second hinge mold.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0007.jpg

I was going to just use the access doors that were there and just glue hinges into the place were the old one were.
I kinda wish I had just done that- would have been easier!:yell::D
But I decided to cast he whole thing, doors hinges and all and replace the doors at the same time as the hinges.
First I drilled out around the perimeter to get ready to cut it out.
https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0008.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0009.jpg

In the end, after I tried cutting from hole to hole, I said to myself, "Screw this!" and got out the Dremel tool. Made fast and easy roughing out the hole.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0010.jpg

I dread doing this type of thing, because it is always difficult to get the shape square or the right size - but I can be pretty stubborn and went ahead with the idea.
Used the Tamiya part for sizing. In the end after all the trouble and time it took casting the replacements I would next time and recommend to anyone wanting to do something similar, just order replacement sprues A-E from Rainbow Ten. Way less stressful and probably cheaper in the end!
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0014.jpg

Test fit with one of the first cast sanded covers... I would end up making and sanding several till I found an acceptable pair.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0017.jpg

After looking at the drawing Marcus shared with us and deciding to go with that schematic on the layout of the side armour screws, at this time I also dug out all the old screw heads and filled them with Gel CA and some glazing putty. The CA will allow me to redrill if I need to drill in roughly the same place, a trick learned from rescribing airplane panel lines.
https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0019.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0020.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0021.jpg

I'm kinda glad I had to redo the screw heads- I felt the drill bit I used previously made the diameter of the holes too big, but I was too lazy to change it half way trough. Now, using a smaller sized drill bit , I am thoroughly happy with the results.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0026.jpg

James Tainton

06-26-2008, 07:38 PM

This shows part of the process for getting the doors and hinges in shape, sanding off excess resin. I am totally kicking myself for not just ordering replacement sprues!:yell:
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0029.jpg

So here is were it is at now with the doors glued in place.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0059.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0060.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/Picture-2.png

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/DSC_0062.jpg

Sticky

06-26-2008, 09:05 PM

Nice going James! Was worth the effort!

James Tainton

06-29-2008, 03:44 PM

Nice going James! Was worth the effort!

Thanks John;)
Here is some photos showing the process for putting the Part jack kit parts, (say that fast 5 times!:D).
As it is basically a series of flat pieces soldered on top of the next one- I'll let the photos do the talking. The pics aren't the best- need to get a better lens for the D80. It is not completed yet but it looks pretty good- more updates on it will come. Doing the top one as it appears to be the right version for this early Stug, according to drawings in Achtung Panzer.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/apdrawing.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/9web/Untitled-1.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-0.jpg

One thing I have read regarding Part PE is that is is difficult to solder. This problem is caused by a coating that Part applies that I read is to help with CA glue bonding. I have also read that lacquer thinner is good to remove this coating so solder can occur unhampered. My experience is that this is not true- after liberal soaking and scrubbing with the LT, the coating remained- actual physical sanding is required to remove this coating. A good example is the third picture below- the one on the left has the brownish coating the Part part on the right has it sanded off-
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-2.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-3.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-4.jpg

James Tainton

06-29-2008, 04:30 PM

more pics
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-5.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-6.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-7.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-8.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-9.jpg

https://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-10.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-11.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-12.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-13.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-14.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/stug-III;A-15.jpg

Markus

06-29-2008, 04:51 PM

James Tainton

06-30-2008, 05:59 AM

Looks like fun James ;).
Nice audience you got there too :D.
I got a reply from History Facts.
Unfortunatly Peter and Wolfgang got no very clear detail pic of the storage box, only a shot from the back of a StuG III were the box can be seen, but not as detailed as you would wish.
I will buy a high res scan from them and will send it to you if you wish.

Oh well I'll just do the best I can:thumb:-send me the pic (and the bill):p
more done on the Part jack.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/jack6.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/jack5.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/jack4.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/jack3.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/DSCF0039.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/DSCF0040.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/jack2.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/jack1.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/jack/jack.jpg

James Tainton

06-30-2008, 06:06 AM

Also came across that Verlinden gun kit- and well, not sure if I couldn't just scratch something better for the sighting scope. Besides maybe one day I will feel inspired enough to build this old Shelf Queen.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/gun/gun4.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/gun/gun3.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/gun/gun2.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/gun/gun.jpg

Markus

06-30-2008, 03:15 PM

Oh well I'll just do the best I can-send me the pic (and the bill)
No way mate, I will pay for the pic as I offered the help ;).

Nive work on the Jack!
Are you sure the seams between all the part´s won´t be noticable after painting?
Unbelievable how you can handle such small PE-Parts. Seems to me I need to practice a bit more whenever I will find the time to build again...
About the sight, just try to scratch it, it seems the cheapest option ;).
Nice IG by the way, I didn´t know Verlinden has or had one. I still own the old Italeri (or was it Esci?) kit which is far beyond good :D.
Wish someone brings out a new one...

serpico

07-19-2008, 07:26 PM

Excellent model, nice to see someone build one of the oldies!

I always love your posts since they're so informative and detail oriented...helps to start with a pretty good basic model.

Looking forward to further updates.....

Regards, Paul :)

armor fiend

07-26-2008, 07:35 PM

Stug! Stug! Stug!

How did you make the conical bolts?

James Tainton

07-26-2008, 07:38 PM

Stug! Stug! Stug!

How did you make the conical bolts?

Those are from the Model Kasten set.;)

armor fiend

07-26-2008, 07:40 PM

How would I go about scratch building them? :)

And are they on both sides of the Stug or just above the rectangular box?

Evan August

07-26-2008, 07:53 PM

I think Bronco has a set of conical bolts, as well as others. About $7-8 for a set, so they can be kind of pricey if you're buying a lot of them. Think there's 3-4 sprues a package though.

James Tainton

08-04-2008, 02:40 PM

Well I was looking at the resin replacement hatches the other day and I really did not like the way they looked. I really hate resin really- it is very unreliable, it warps and shinks etc. I would rather work with regular plastic anyday.
I have had on order two sprues from the Tamiya Stug B kit coming from Rainbow Ten and they arrived yesterday. I took a closer look at the resin doors and saw some odd bubbling around one sides door hinges. What it was was some sort of chemical interaction that was causing the plastic to disintegrate!
Here is a pic after I dug out the damage, with was like soft gooey plastic.

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/10/DSCF0028.jpg

A dry fit with the far better plastic replacements. I'll use the rest of the sprues on the next Stug upgrade.
http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/10/DSCF0017.jpg

http://panzerfaust.sslpowered.com/planetArmor/StugIII_A/10/DSCF0019.jpg