View Full Version : Sd.Kfz.222 Leichter Panzerspahwagen
RickLawler
02-08-2008, 02:43 PM
Well, here I go again....:rolleyes:
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/title222-1.jpg
(I just got Photoshop last week...still learning, but couldn't resist playing with it.)
The base kit, the newer released Tamiya Sd.Kfz.222, which they have added PE gernade screens...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/tam352701.jpg
...but, call me a sucker for all things bright and shinny - more over-the-top PhotoEtch compliments of Lionroar.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/hi-PI000000788791.jpg
The PE frets....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/image.jpg
The multipage directions, much less intimidating than the M2's 25 or so pages.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/image-1.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/image-2.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/image-3.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/image-4.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/image-5.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/image-6.jpg
Paul Abbott (Paulyrichard) did a build of this kit about a year ago, just as I was getting involved at Planet Armor. His super work and a bunch of references (thanks Lawerence) can be found here:
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2271
So there is the set-up, now it's time to get to work!
(I'm still working on the T34, just waiting for the PE parts)
....updates soon,
Kreighshoer
02-08-2008, 02:45 PM
rick the fabulous does it again ... brassomania on pa!!! http://www.cheesebuerger.de/images/midi/froehlich/a049.gif
looking forward to another insane and outstanding build of you ... now rock it man and drive me nuts! http://www.cheesebuerger.de/images/midi/frech/a036.gif
cheers
AfRiKaKoRpS
02-08-2008, 03:01 PM
Very nice subject Rick and "whole lotta" etch. That will be a star :)
Can not wait to see your updates here.
Chris
camokid
02-08-2008, 06:30 PM
Hey Rick ! This looks to be another sweet build in the making, I recently saw the etch set and thought 'gotta get me one'.
I will be watching closely for pointers.
:thumb:
mic bradshaw
02-09-2008, 04:46 AM
Rick, i am looking forward to this one. Have you chosen a particular vehicle or theatre for it to be painted in?
Striker
02-09-2008, 06:59 AM
this set from lion roar is really a good one, hope they will release just the same for the 223
Hi Rick,
Nice choose...I got the LionRoar kit also...I'm interested of your build :)
Rick, this is great! I'm looking forward to all this too...
MikkoH
02-09-2008, 01:38 PM
Damn. With those brass theres be only wheels injected and then you deside to get resin ones!:D:D:D
RickLawler
02-09-2008, 05:03 PM
Damn. With those brass theres be only wheels injected and then you deside to get resin ones!:D:D:D
Mikko, this update is not nearly as extensive as the M2, so there is plenty of good ole fashioned plastic.
Have you chosen a particular vehicle or theatre for it to be painted in?
No, Mic I haven't really put much thought into the finish. I really intended to build this after the T34, but these materials came it first....so here I go.
Thanks for the interest guys,
Rick
panamadan
02-09-2008, 08:47 PM
Don't forget the Royal interior set! Dan
MikkoH
02-10-2008, 03:39 AM
Mikko, this update is not nearly as extensive as the M2, so there is plenty of good ole fashioned plastic.
Rick
Yeah,yeah. And next week you see rest of the hull in brass in shop and here we go again!!:D (just teasing, sorry) Looking forward to see this one on progress.
Gopher
02-10-2008, 06:27 AM
Go Rick, Go!!!!!!!!
RickLawler
02-11-2008, 11:45 AM
Well, lets get started....
Following the kit directions the first order of business is to work on the vehicles chassis and suspension. The kits shows some of it's age with flash and sinkmarks, so some time is needed for cleaning and filling, nothing serious however.
Updates from Lionroar also make their appearance right from the start. First are front and rear plates, tow hooks, and bumper supports.
The parts..
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/01.jpg
assembled
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/02.jpg
Stowage bins: the parts, then bended and soldered
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/03.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/05.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/06.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/07.jpg
closed.....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/08.jpg
open...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/09.jpg
Believe it or not, it was nice to do a little soldering again!!!! ;)
later all,
skeletondude
02-11-2008, 11:52 AM
From humble beginnings to mighty finishes...Great work Rick! :thumb:
Marek
Driver
02-11-2008, 12:28 PM
Believe it or not, it was nice to do a little soldering again!!!!
Careful Rick, this may become a M222A1!! :D
Ruben
MikkoH
02-11-2008, 02:36 PM
Well, lets get started....
Believe it or not, it was nice to do a little soldering again!!!! ;)
later all,
Ok.. here we go again.. He is unleashed..:D
I like this little car. and it's interesting that there's so much brass for a little car like this.
Are you using any ref ? as i wonder how accurate is the LR set.
Jan Peters
02-11-2008, 05:20 PM
Very nice choice of subject Rick!
Love the work you've done sofar! :thumb:
Jan :)
sharkmouth
02-11-2008, 08:40 PM
Rick,
If you don't already have it...I recommend Toadman's Sd.Kfz. 222 Photo CD.
http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/
http://www.toadmanstankpictures.com/01.htm
Chris not only covered all the details of the Jacques Littlefield example, he even obliged me and took detailed measurements of the turret! These are on the CD. I asked since it is the same turret as my back burner Sd.KFz. 250/9 Alte project. You can always let us know how accurate the replacement turret is. :)
Regards,
lquah
02-11-2008, 08:45 PM
Rick
Was wondering when you were going to start a new build and the 222 is a great choice! Can't wait to see you work your Lawlerian magic on it :)
Let me know if you need any info.
Lawrence
Sticky
02-11-2008, 08:53 PM
Go Rick Go!
Super PE work...Rick :thumb:
RickLawler
02-12-2008, 06:29 PM
Marek, Mikko, Jan, John...thanks guys for the nice send-off...
Careful Rick, this may become a M222A1!! :D
Ruben
Funny Guy, Ruben....;)
Ruslan, References? What references? Interestingly enough, I really just considered this a OOTB type build (ya, I know one of the boxes has a whole bunch of PE) so I haven't done much more than casually cruise though period photographs. I don't have specific reference materials.
...with that said, thanks Saul for the links. I've been through the web photos, but it sounds like you are recomending the Cd's!?!?
You can always let us know how accurate the replacement turret is.
I suppose that if I'm going to be helpful and check the accuracy of the Lionroar turret I'd better get my act together...let me know what you are looking for.
Let me know if you need any info.
Lawrence
....and, Lawerence I got your PM and sent you one back...! I have this feeling that this OOTB is getting a little more involved! Thanks.
Super PE work...Rick
Thanks Marco....You Are the standard!
Fledermaus
02-12-2008, 07:27 PM
Nice as always, cant wait to see it finished ;):thumb:
Bravo Tango
02-12-2008, 08:49 PM
Dang it Rick... I have one of these in the stash.. and have put off building it for a few of years... you have now piqued my interest again. Besides it has wheels !!!
Really, really nice PE work... I have never tried the hinge thing before but it looks the business.
... now where is my 222 ?? ;)
Brian T
Thought maybe you are using some ref for it.
SO how's the fit of the p-e? With my experience i get some little of sets which makes soldering a pain and makes me go mad a bit(which doesn't help in solving the issue) 8)
Gopher
02-13-2008, 03:11 AM
Great work on PE Rick!
panzerjager
02-13-2008, 01:14 PM
UF! you must be tired after those ....those.....damned PE!!!!! :D :D :D
But the reward is good!!! Go to the dark side!!!! Go ahead!!
BTW, nice work
Darío
Evan August
02-13-2008, 03:37 PM
nice soldering work there!
RickLawler
02-13-2008, 05:10 PM
FENDER BENDER AHEAD...
Thanks guys again for the continued interest. Well, without waisting too much time it's time to work on the fenders....I started at the front.
The intial parts...Lionroar has this habit (as they also did on the M2A1 set) of using "free-floating" parts, meaning that there are no connetion points. It's kinda hard to tell from the photos, but the smaller triangle'ish piece must be positioned and soldered on it's edge, making-up the inner wall of the the fender stowage box. It's a little tricky!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/10.jpg
In place...from the topside
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/11.jpg
From the underside...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/12.jpg
Time to make the hinges and hatch doors for the fender boxes. I got lucky, they work!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/13.jpg
Some little fittings need to be place on the fenders as well, including these things (signals?)...here are the parts and one that is assembled.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/20.jpg
Finally the fender supports are soldered in place underneath, and all the fitting (except the mirror,headlights, and latches) are added. The mostly complete front fenders...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/21.jpg
Now it's time to do the same for the rear fenders....thanks everyone,
Radek Pituch
02-13-2008, 05:22 PM
Damn, Rick you're doing all that work with PE so easily. I can only handle simple things and even making them it makes me wanna throw them through the window :)
Good job with your model. Nice and tidy.
Radek
Sticky
02-13-2008, 08:08 PM
Super Duper Rick!
Anders Heintz
02-13-2008, 11:30 PM
Beautiful work Rick!
It's one of my favourit vehicles and Im looking forward to the next steps!!
Larry Bates
02-14-2008, 02:14 AM
Hey Rick,
This should be fun to watch. Looks good so far :thumb:
Laz
skeletondude
02-14-2008, 02:59 AM
The PE master is in town! :thumb:
Awesome!
Marek
sharkmouth
02-14-2008, 06:01 AM
Hi Rick,
Excellent work!
Yes, I am recommending the CD to help out with what those fiddly bits should look like when completed. Also, at my behest, Chris included measurements taken of the turret (which I planned to scratch build for my Sd.Kfz. 250/9 Alte). So, I was asking if you could measure the PE turret and compare. No fancy things.
Regards,
lquah
02-14-2008, 10:09 AM
Hi Rick
Nice soldering work. It's not your fault but it looks like LR got the hinges way overscale.
Click on the link for a restored vehicle
http://svsm.org/gallery/Sdkfz222/IMGP5201
Lawrence
Kreighshoer
02-14-2008, 10:13 AM
sooooooooo cool!!! :eek: :thumb:
Instructorrob
02-14-2008, 10:25 AM
Nice PE job Rick.
Don't you just love that stuff? :D
MartinD
02-14-2008, 12:22 PM
Looking very good Rick! Me like that a lot :D
I've got three Voyager for the Sherman III, with several working hinges as well. Fingers crossed, but seeing this helps out.
Cheers, MartinD
sharkmouth
02-14-2008, 01:01 PM
Hey Martin, I got those three too! Let's see what you can do...I promise to show a little myself, such as the stowage bin.
Regards,
RickLawler
02-14-2008, 01:32 PM
So, Ruslan and I both have ammo boxes to build, and because misery loves company, we both built to compare construction notes.
I'll go ahead and post these here, but I"ve also posted on Ruslans' Flak Tower thread for comparison:
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4433&page=5
The ammo boxes closed and open...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/500.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/501.jpg
It's not your fault but it looks like LR got the hinges way overscale
Ya, perhaps Lawerence..but in defence, I'm not sure how much smaller these could be made and still be managable (at least with my eyesight and shakey hands!!!) The photo's tend to exaggerate them as well, they appear much more to scale in context.
Hey Rick,
This should be fun to watch. Looks good so far
Laz
WTF!!! :eek: I thought you'd fallen off the edge of the world, Larry. Damn, glad to see you around my friend. :)
John, Marek, Martin, Robert, Laura...thanks.
Anders, I seem to be drawn to the little armored cars as well.
So, I was asking if you could measure the PE turret and compare. No fancy things.
Will do, Saul.
pwranta193
02-14-2008, 02:15 PM
Good golly - are you using one of those surgical loops for vision?!
I can't even see the stuff to cut it off of the fret - much less weld it into place :) Looking good Rick-man any chance of seeing it in person?
By the way - I've lost track.. did you finish your T-34?
Panzergrenadier
02-14-2008, 04:43 PM
What the hell Rick....I am away from the forum for a few days and you have already embarked on another PE extravaganza.
It looks super nice and something I am never able to recreate. :thumb:
sharkmouth
02-14-2008, 04:52 PM
Rick,
Where are the rounds? Your troops carry empty clips? :D You know we have PE PE envy...
What? PE PE is lots of photo-etched parts!
Regards,
Kreighshoer
02-14-2008, 04:54 PM
top notch soldering work rick! :thumb:
cheers
Larry Bates
02-14-2008, 10:32 PM
WTF!!! I thought you'd fallen off the edge of the world, Larry. Damn, glad to see you around my friend. :p:D:D
Not yet my PE PE friend. I was just taking a long nap :rolleyes:
Will be slowly working my way back out of the hole.
Laz
RickLawler
02-19-2008, 02:30 PM
Rick,
You know we have PE PE envy...
What?
Regards,
I'm begining to really wonder.....:rolleyes:...a little hesitant now to showing more of my goods to my Freudian Friends..:eek:..here are the rear fenders. :D
One Unbent, the other bent and soldered....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/14.jpg
The underside, showing the fender supports and footstep...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/15.jpg
Soldered.....underside. I'm not quite so careful with the solder where it won't show, but the photos make it look much thicker than it really is.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/16.jpg
Soldered....topside
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/17.jpg
Both fenders, underside and topside....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/18.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/19.jpg
Still having fun!!!! More soon.
Jan Peters
02-19-2008, 02:37 PM
Excellent!
Jan :)
pwranta193
02-19-2008, 03:51 PM
only because the King title was already given to Watanabe-san :D
These look awesome! You may have to set up a brass clinic at one of the meetings - you've run headlong through the learning curve on this stuff, and it really shows. Can you show us some dry fitted shots with the chassis?
RickLawler
02-19-2008, 03:57 PM
By the way - I've lost track.. did you finish your T-34?
Paul....no, I haven't finished the T34, I'm waiting...drum roll please...on Aber PE!!!!
I can't even see the stuff to cut it off of the fret - much less weld it into place :) Looking good Rick-man any chance of seeing it in person?
Ha, I got new perscriptions just before Christmas....what a difference. It really does help to be able to see the stuff your trying to work with. And of course you can see it in person....just pick-up the phone or come to a meeting.....Just Do It :p
RickLawler
02-19-2008, 04:02 PM
only because the King title was already given to Watanabe-san :D
These look awesome! You may have to set up a brass clinic at one of the meetings - you've run headlong through the learning curve on this stuff, and it really shows. Can you show us some dry fitted shots with the chassis?
Thanks Paul...I know my place....I'm truely happy to being the humble serf in training to the Master, Watanabe-san.
Dry fit??? you know, that's a good idea...I haven't even thought of doing that......fingers crossed. Yep, I'll post what I find-out.
jagdpanzer
02-19-2008, 05:24 PM
Wow Rick, another winner!
Those ammo boxes look brilliant!
I just bought a nice book about the 222:
Uwe Feist and Robert Andersons: Panzerspähwagen.
Tons of nice pictures and information, if you need something specific drop me a PM.
Thanks for showing,
Manuel
lquah
02-20-2008, 02:54 AM
Rick
Nice soldering on the ammo boxes and the fenders.
LQ
Gopher
02-20-2008, 04:01 AM
great soldering work Rick!
canjuaan
02-20-2008, 02:28 PM
yes, great soldering!
schlichtr
02-20-2008, 07:27 PM
Rick, I see you are building another Lion Roar kit. Great job so far. So what happened to Adam? Been waiting on some updates from his T-34. You both coming up to Seattle this spring? Later.
Roy
Sticky
02-20-2008, 08:10 PM
Hey Rick I hope you are planning to beat the u know what outa those fenders, otherwise you are wasting alot of premium solder time!
MikkoH
02-21-2008, 03:22 AM
Great job with solder as usual!:)
RickLawler
02-21-2008, 11:52 AM
Hey Rick I hope you are planning to beat the u know what outa those fenders, otherwise you are wasting alot of premium solder time!
:eek::eek: Yep, some dings and dents along the way. I'm one of those people (in need of treatment?) which tries to make them factory fresh, then do the damage later.
Rick, I see you are building another Lion Roar kit. Great job so far. So what happened to Adam? Been waiting on some updates from his T-34. You both coming up to Seattle this spring? Later.
Roy
Hey Roy....Adam's around, I just saw him Tuesday night at the club auction/meeting. He seems to be a bit stalled on his t34 (lack of time)...My PE for the T34 shipped yesterday, so it should be here next week and we'll get back to tandem building.
I'm thinking about going to Seattle, I think Adam (and some other PDX fellows?) are also going to make the trip.
Thanks as always to the Planet Krew for the continued support....
A HUGE THANKS TO LAWERENCE
The man of a thousand kits, and a huge heart sent me some goodies. These are for the 223, but many of the parts are interchangable....
From Ordanance Models...some interior resin
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/0001.jpg
And, also the Eduard PE set...'cuz too much PE is never enough!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/0002.jpg
...and of course, as long as he was at it, he decided to send along the Tamiya 223 kit!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/0003.jpg
Lawerence, I know that I speak for many of us...thanks for all that you do.
Kreighshoer
02-21-2008, 12:11 PM
My PE for the T34 shipped yesterday, so it should be here next week and we'll get back to tandem building.
that's cool news rick! i am anxiously awaiting the next update on the bolshevik :D
The man of a thousand kits, and a huge heart sent me some goodies. These are for the 223, but many of the parts are interchangable....
From Ordanance Models...some interior resin
[...]
And, also the Eduard PE set...'cuz too much PE is never enough!
[...]
...and of course, as long as he was at it, he decided to send along the Tamiya 223 kit!
:eek: :eek: :eek: ... that's enormous! .oO(does that mean that we will have a dio from you with a 222 and a 223? :D )
and there's never enough pe for a pe pe friend and padavan of watanabe-san! :D
Lawerence, I know that I speak for many of us...thanks for all that you do.
yeah! lawrence you simply rock!
cheers
MikkoH
02-21-2008, 12:14 PM
Lawerence, I know that I speak for many of us...thanks for all that you do.
Agreed. That man has a big heart!:D
Panzergrenadier
02-21-2008, 04:23 PM
Rick, you are doing a very good job and once again you amaze me.:thumb:
Cool stuff as well!
My own soldering iron is currently gathering dust. Partly because of the lack of PE in my projects and partly because of my inability to make magic with it as you seem to. I have a project that I have been wanting to start for some time now, but first I have to figure out how to remove the coating from the Eduard frets. Any ideas, maybe some mild acid?
Lawerence, I know that I speak for many of us...thanks for all that you do.
I wholeheartedly agree.
S
Evan August
02-21-2008, 05:54 PM
Nice haul.
sharkmouth
02-21-2008, 09:31 PM
Rick,
You lucky SOG!
Lawrence, how can we pay you back for all you do?
EDIT: Never mind, I saw what Lawrence posted in the market. I will see what I have. Lawrence, I BELIEVE I have a ModelKasten Mid conversion for the Tamiya kit that includes the triangular hatch, will this do? If so, PM me with your postal address so I can send it out on Saturday. After all, this is what it is about...helping each other! ;)
Regards,
Larry Bates
02-22-2008, 12:34 AM
Rick, you are doing a very good job and once again you amaze me.:thumb:
Cool stuff as well!
My own soldering iron is currently gathering dust. Partly because of the lack of PE in my projects and partly because of my inability to make magic with it as you seem to. I have a project that I have been wanting to start for some time now, but first I have to figure out how to remove the coating from the Eduard frets. Any ideas, maybe some mild acid?
I wholeheartedly agree.
S
Siim,
Just rub it on some fine grit sand paper on a flat surface. That "should" take off the coating and expose the brass, as long as it IS brass.
Laz
Rick, Lawrence,
you guys is crazy man, crazy!!!!!!
RickLawler
02-22-2008, 02:14 PM
Rick,
Lawrence, how can we pay you back for all you do?
EDIT: Never mind, I saw what Lawrence posted in the market. I will see what I have. Lawrence, I BELIEVE I have a ModelKasten Mid conversion for the Tamiya kit that includes the triangular hatch, will this do? If so, PM me with your postal address so I can send it out on Saturday. After all, this is what it is about...helping each other! ;)
Regards,
Thanks Saul....you, my friend, are included in that same catagory of fine folks who give of their time and resources freely...thanks.
but first I have to figure out how to remove the coating from the Eduard frets.
Just rub it on some fine grit sand paper on a flat surface. That "should" take off the coating and expose the brass, as long as it IS brass.
Laz
Yep...Thanks Laz, you are correct. Siim, just to make sure I cut off a little section of the Ed.PE fret that I just recieved from LQ. A brief sanding until it shows brass color then you are good to go as usual...here is a shot.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/siim1.jpg
Now for a little more of the build, moved onto the chassis....removed the plastic grille section to be replaced with photoetch...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/31.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/30.jpg
...removed some molded parts, filled some holes, and added various little shinny bits...from the rear
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/32-1.jpg
...and from the front...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/33.jpg
Can you show us some dry fitted shots with the chassis?
__________________
Paul
I really hadn't thought of doing that....:eek: Well, here it is. I'm relieved to report that everything lines-up just fine...!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/34.jpg
Thanks for following along, next up the turret.
lquah
02-22-2008, 02:46 PM
Thanks for the kind words Rick, Laura, Mikko, Siim and Saul..I have way too much stuff and am always happy to see them go to good homes :)
After all, this is what it is about...helping each other! ;)
I absolutely agree. We all all part of a small community and we all can make a difference.
Saul, Thanks for the offer of the MK parts. I have sent an e-mail to you.
Rick, I remember that the Tamiya kits do not have have the overhang of the upper armor. http://svsm.org/gallery/Sdkfz222/IMGP5193
Lawrence
RickLawler
02-22-2008, 03:05 PM
Rick, I remember that the Tamiya kits do not have have the overhang of the upper armor. http://svsm.org/gallery/Sdkfz222/IMGP5193
Lawrence
Good eye LQ...maybe too good :cool::rolleyes:!!!! Hum...at first glance it seems like I could just run a small strip along the upper edge to create the lip????? ....or just leave it be.:p
Ideas and suggestions welcomed;)
James Tainton
02-22-2008, 03:20 PM
Okay guys knock it off! I'm going to have to take an insulin shot if all this sweetness keeps up.:p
Actually it's members like you that make pA the great place it is to hang out. Nice work on the brass Rick, you are quite prolific and you just keep getting better and better with each project.
Keep the faith.;)
Larry Bates
02-23-2008, 02:12 AM
Wow,
I can feel the love :p
It's looking good Rick. :thumb:
Laz
Gopher
02-23-2008, 07:20 AM
Looks sweet, Rick!
RickLawler
02-24-2008, 07:17 PM
Hi all. A few people have asked me recently some questions about my soldering and PE use. Some of this I've shown before but perhaps its worth revisiting. Soldering in more detail is also explained on the soldering SBS which Fletcher and I did a little while back.
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3789
I have a couple of very small fender boxes for the 222 which I'll use to demonstrate some soldering an PE work. Hope it answers a few questions.
everything I'll need for the session...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/1.jpg
cut the PE from the fret using a sharp razor...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/2.jpg
file the edges to remove any attachment points...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/3.jpg
fold the boxes using my Etchmate...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/4.jpg
place flux onto the surface to be soldered using an old brush...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/5.jpg
cut a small chip of solder, place the chip in the inside fluxed corner of the box, touch with soldering iron until it melts...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/6.jpg
now for the tricky part, the hinges. These particular sets have seperate fingers which need to be soldered on first...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/7.jpg
prepare the edge for soldering by fluxing the surface, then place a small chip of solder onto it...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/8.jpg
pre-solder, or Tin, the area to prepare it for the hinge fingers...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/9.jpg
place the fluxed hinge finger against the soldered edge, touch with heat to remelt the solder to attach...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/10.jpg
now it's a matter of patience - place the small wire between the fingers of the lid and the box, and bend each finger around the wire to create the hinge...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/11-1.jpg
yep, it's small...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/11-2.jpg
finally, repeat the process to attach the box to the fender...flux, tin, reheat.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/11-3.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/11-4.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/SBS%20File/11-55.jpg
This soldering/Photoetch deal is actually quite simple once you get the hang of using a few new tools. Check-out Marco and James's Vbench works as well...they've done some outstanding work which I've learned so much from!
http://www.planetarmor.com/blogs/avbench.php?name=419
http://www.planetarmor.com/blogs/avbench.php?name=14
Thanks for your patience...the build will continue.
Anders Heintz
02-24-2008, 09:52 PM
Perfect Rick! Thanks for the SBS!
As a newbie or maybe better phrased, reborn armor fan this SBS was extremely helpful, simple, straight to the point and great pics. It makes more sense now that I understand how you use the solder. I can't wait to try it out, got all the goods a month or so ago but its hard to find time!
Thanks again, excellent thread and very inspirational!
Jan Peters
02-24-2008, 11:16 PM
Thanks Rick, nice and clear SBS.
It is kinda how I do it, but it somehow turns out different :p :rolleyes:
Jan :)
Der Oberst
02-25-2008, 10:04 AM
Rick,
Great SBS. It really helped me out as I just started to solder my first PR over the weekend for a Stug build. I was wondering how to solder a long flat piece on the bottom of the fenders. Now I know :)
THANKS!
Thanks a lot for the soldering guide, Rick!:thumb:
This guide answers a lot of questions!
Although I still have one tiny stupid question:
In photo #6 it says :"cut a small chip of solder, place the chip in the inside fluxed corner of the box, touch with soldering iron until it melts..."
So does this mean that I have to touch the chip of solder with the soldering iron or would it be sufficient to touch just the PE-part with the soldering iron?
Thanks and best regards,
Notger
RickLawler
02-25-2008, 12:23 PM
So does this mean that I have to touch the chip of solder with the soldering iron or would it be sufficient to touch just the PE-part with the soldering iron?
Thanks and best regards,
Notger
It can be done either way. As you can see in the last photos, where I attach the box to the fender, I melt the solder which is "sandwiched" between the fender and the box...placing the hot tip on the underside of the fender.
Direct heat to the chip is quickest, and you have more control as to the direction and flow, but sometimes direct access is limited, so general heating will work. Flux is key!!!!! It is really the flux which needs to be "sizzling" that causes the solder to melt.
One other note...the size of the piece of brass that you are working with is a big factor in how fast or slow the melting takes place...as the heat will disapate on the larger brass pieces...thus taking longer. I generally work on glass, but have found that I need to place larger parts on a piece of cardstock to get it to working temp. as it doesn't conduct heat away as quick.
Does this help?
Hello Rick,
thank you very much for the answer!
That really helped me a lot!
But I'm afraid that I have one more question: How do you clean the soldered parts in order to paint them?
Best regards,
Notger
RickLawler
02-25-2008, 01:46 PM
Hello Rick,
thank you very much for the answer!
That really helped me a lot!
But I'm afraid that I have one more question: How do you clean the soldered parts in order to paint them?
Best regards,
Notger
Notger, this is actually quite important, thanks for asking. There are two parts to the "clean-up' process. The first is while you are doing the soldering. No matter how careful, you will from time to time have excess solder. Generally it's not much, but you want to maintain as clean and smooth a finish as possible. For this, I use a little sandpaper, beginning with a 240 grit. Lightly sand, circular motions are best as to prevent leaving engraving lines on the brass. I then usually finish with a light sanding using 600 grit. This usually smooths out any blemishes. I will also will sometimes use the file which you see in the first photo, it is very useful for "cutting" into the corners.
Second part to clean-up is to prep. for painting. I first give the parts a squirt of kitchen cleaner (Formula 409), but I've also heard that regular vinegar works as well. Then wash it off in regular tap water. This generally takes off the oily flux, and any solder or brass remnants from the sanding. Repeat if necessary.
Painting begins with Primer. I use Krylon brand from a rattle can, but use your favorite, just make sure that you have everything covered. Once that is dried you are ready to proceed with your usual painting routine.
thanks,
James Tainton
02-25-2008, 02:13 PM
Hello Rick,
thank you very much for the answer!
That really helped me a lot!
But I'm afraid that I have one more question: How do you clean the soldered parts in order to paint them?
Best regards,
Notger
Notger, this is actually quite important, thanks for asking. There are two parts to the "clean-up' process. The first is while you are doing the soldering. No matter how careful, you will from time to time have excess solder. Generally it's not much, but you want to maintain as clean and smooth a finish as possible. For this, I use a little sandpaper, beginning with a 240 grit. Lightly sand, circular motions are best as to prevent leaving engraving lines on the brass. I then usually finish with a light sanding using 600 grit. This usually smooths out any blemishes. I will also will sometimes use the file which you see in the first photo, it is very useful for "cutting" into the corners.
Second part to clean-up is to prep. for painting. I first give the parts a squirt of kitchen cleaner (Formula 409), but I've also heard that regular vinegar works as well. Then wash it off in regular tap water. This generally takes off the oily flux, and any solder or brass remnants from the sanding. Repeat if necessary.
Painting begins with Primer. I use Krylon brand from a rattle can, but use your favorite, just make sure that you have everything covered. Once that is dried you are ready to proceed with your usual painting routine.
thanks,
Hi Notger and Rick,
For cleaning up excess solder, I take some steel wool and roll it into a cylinder. It needs to be the right circumference to fit into the chuck of my Dremel power tool. The length is about two inches or whatever fits. After tightening the chuck the steel wool needs to be trimmed back a bit so that centrifugal force doesn't just break off the end. A little nub sticking out of about 5 mm should do. Sometimes you need it longer or shorter. This is a good technique for getting rid of excess in corners and tight places. But you have to be careful- you can start to eat into the brass. As the nub wears down you can then open the chuck and pull a little bit more out to continue your "cleaning".
I also use sand paper of different grades- whatever may suit, and even a hobby knife can scrap off excess. Steel wool just used in the hand can work to finesse the look too.
As for degreasing I use Lacquer thinner (Cellulose thinner in some parts of the world). I dip an old clean paint brush and flood the area to be degreased working to get any grease or residue off, scrubbing and adding more thinner again and again. Sometimes, because brass does not melt in lacquer thinner, you can completely immerse the item and clean it that way. I keep repeating applications until it appears all the offending stuff is gone. I then take my airbrush with just air blowing and blow off all excess thinner. I have even in the past used straight thinner in the airbrush paint cup and sprayed/cleaned the part that way. Sometimes a Q-tip, (cotton swab) dipped in Lacquer Thinner works very well to clean parts. You may need to use a couple till the tip shows no dirty greasy stuff.
Be sure to have a respirator and/or good ventilation... lacquer thinner is not good for human tissue.
For priming metal- you may wish to consider a self etching metal primer- decanted and sprayed with your airbrush.
http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/showpost.php?p=59425&postcount=39
Markus
02-25-2008, 02:32 PM
Hey Rick,
great work on one of my alltime favorite amoured vehicles!
As I have some PE-sets from LionRoar and I´m not to euphoric about them (just too much of a fan of ABER it seems), what would you say how the 222 set is?
Seems like a bi*** to get them right...
I´m thinking about ordering the sets from RoyalModel some time in the future, so maybe I´ll be able to post a SBS as a comparison :).
Can´t wait for an update.
P.S. Did you ever gave Solderpaste a try?
I only use this to solder and feel it much more easy to work with than usual solder.
Thank you very much for the tips about cleaning the parts, Rick and James!
This really helps me a lot!
So thanks again and best regards,
Notger
jagdpanzer
02-26-2008, 11:54 AM
Thanks for this very useful SBS,
Hm, technique looks pretty much the same then I do, but not the result :p
Back to the workbench...
Thanks ones again
Manuel
MikkoH
02-26-2008, 01:10 PM
Top work Rick as usual! And thanks for the soldering tips guys!:) perhaps some day I'm brave enough to try..:D
RickLawler
02-27-2008, 01:10 PM
Good Day Everyone. Well, this is one of those 2 steps back, one step forward updates. After the last posting, showing some of the work on the body, John wrote:
Looks good Rick. Was the screen on the top see thru? IE could you see into the interior standing on the engine deck?
_________________
- John
I admitted that it was something that I had considered, but had decided to ignore the fact as it seemed like more work than I was wanting to do. Well, a little later, Abilio Piñeiro also supported John's suggestion.
So what could have been just a little extra work up front, ended-up being more of a challange. I decided to remove the PE screening and cutout the top deck. The difficulty was the removal of the PE screen...it was REALLY stuck down...for a change! I finally got it off, with minor damage :(, cut out the area and re-installed the screen.
Anyway, here are the steps (backward and forward)....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/36.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/37.jpg
I needed to do a little reinforcing of the ring...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/38.jpg
screen reinstalled, now a little better view of the interior....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/39.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/40.jpg
So with the (de)construction out of the way, progress will continue...
thanks guys.
pwranta193
02-27-2008, 01:45 PM
and Andrew H. is the expert on this one, is that the back deck wasn't actually screening - more of a heavy metal grid. It was very thick, a couple or three CMs, IIRC, and there isn't anything about that replicates it with any reality.
As I recall Andrew tried building one from scratch (little bits of styrene on edge) and gave up right after he got out of Re-Hab :D. You could always stack six or seven PE screens on top of each other :D. Maybe a good spot for one of those big red aerial recognition flags... or did you say that you were doing late war? It is one of those areas that are just about impossible to represent accurately - so either live with it or cover it up :), as you can only do what you can do.
RickLawler
02-27-2008, 02:01 PM
and Andrew H. is the expert on this one, is that the back deck wasn't actually screening - more of a heavy metal grid.
Yep, this is the Littlefield 222...which shows what your are saying.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/IMGP52051.jpg
The interesting thing is that Lionroar does make the PE in different gauges, this kit included. It would have been pretty spiffy for them to have punched out this from one of the thicker guages (ie. the sidewalls of the M2-M2A1 set) and really done this section up right. I think that they knew of the shortcoming, though, as the instructions DON"T indicate cutting out the top, rather to overlay it over the molded Tamiya details.
...and I did think about and try using the Eduard screen that Lawerence sent as a backing...it just didn't match-up closely enough.
Later,
Jan Peters
02-27-2008, 02:24 PM
I only found out about this screen after I had completed the 222 and 223 kits :rolleyes:
I was thinking.... couldn't the Tamiya hull be sanded from the inside so as to open up the grid, and have scale thickness?
Jan :)
pwranta193
02-27-2008, 06:23 PM
Not having one kicking around the house, I can't check - sounds like a little controlled Dremel work could do it?
Andrew Hall
02-27-2008, 07:29 PM
Hi fellas, Paul's right I've spent ages figuring how to make this grid and I was pretty glad when the Lion Roar set at least attempted this pattern. I did actually cut out hundreds of little bits of card and glue them together. The measurements need to so precise however, it proved impossible without messing the geometry of the pattern up. Incidentally the screen under the Sd.Kfz.234 air intake was this 60/30 trapezoid pattern as well, but not as thick.
Though this particular pattern would be extremely tough to replicate the one I want is just the plain grid mesh as seen on Sd.Kfz.10/4, Sd.Kfz 7/1 etc etc like in the photo below.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y274/Andrewausfa/9PDLWcopysmall.jpg
I gather from a photo etch manufacturer it would be very tough to etch this grid to scale thickness. Mainly as, if you were to etch, the chemicals would eat away a 'V' shape through the metal. I think economically as well it's impractical, they'd have to start with a pretty thick piece of brass. I've no doubt if they could do it then we'd have seen it by now.
The other option for the square mesh would be to have etched slotted slats which you could assemble but trying to keep them square would be problematical.
Anyway, another thing I've thought is - the 222 must have been a wet vehicle!
Andrew
greybeard
02-27-2008, 10:48 PM
Hi fellas, Paul's right I've spent ages figuring how to make this grid and I was pretty glad when the Lion Roar set at least attempted this pattern. I did actually cut out hundreds of little bits of card and glue them together. The measurements need to so precise however, it proved impossible without messing the geometry of the pattern up. Incidentally the screen under the Sd.Kfz.234 air intake was this 60/30 trapezoid pattern as well, but not as thick.
Though this particular pattern would be extremely tough to replicate the one I want is just the plain grid mesh as seen on Sd.Kfz.10/4, Sd.Kfz 7/1 etc etc like in the photo below.
That's a nasty piece of work. I can't see how you'd do it in styrene. When in doubt, mimick the prototype — perhaps make two jigs that sat on top of each other and sandwiched a thin strip of bendy metal in between, .005" brass or even better copper, or the like. Then solder the kinky strips to a flat longitudinal cross piece. Tedious, to say the least, but possible.
I gather from a photo etch manufacturer it would be very tough to etch this grid to scale thickness. Mainly as, if you were to etch, the chemicals would eat away a 'V' shape through the metal. I think economically as well it's impractical, they'd have to start with a pretty thick piece of brass. I've no doubt if they could do it then we'd have seen it by now.
Your information is correct, although "tough" isn't the word. Try "impossible". Etching is a 3D process, i.e. as it etches down it also etches outwards, into the sides of the opening being cut. The thicker the metal, the more pronounced this becomes, so that with very thick pieces (more than .020") you end up with a cupped inner face — the top and bottom of the plate are protected by the laminated 'resist'. Moreover, the plates become very fragile, prone to blowing apart inside the etching machine, which is expensive and frustrating for all. The general rule of thumb is that the minimum width of a part must be equal to or greater than the thickness of the material being etched.
Trying to create this using a stack of photoetch might work, but it would be a very expensive undertaking — manufacturing costs are about 65¢ per sq.in. for brass, multiplied by the area of each part in the stack. It would be more cost-effective to cast this in brass using a lost-wax process, but again it would be an expensive part.
The other option for the square mesh would be to have etched slotted slats which you could assemble but trying to keep them square would be problematical.
Andrew
Actually, a square mesh is much easier, and can be done readiy in styrene. It calls for careful measurement and cutting skills. Take strips of styrene, mark where the parts interlock and cut them halfway through, with the kerf the exact width of the thickness of the plastic. A miter box is useful here. Then set up half the parts, slots up, appropriately spaced. Fit the other half of the parts into the slots, so they interlock, and once everything's in place, appropriately square, glue it all up with liquid cement. Next day, sand the top face smooth, and section the assembly into the thickness you want.
This is quite a bit of work, but if you need more than one part you can make your matrix from wider strips and slice it up into as many parts as you need. This is the approach I would take for something with 'cheeseboards' like an SdKfz 10/4.
The same concept can be done with etched parts, but such an assembly will make casual hobbyists cringe. Moreover, it doesn't work unless you solder the parts, and not everyone is up to that. Styrene is actually much easier because it can be glued without fuss.
Cheers
Scott Fraser
Larry Bates
02-28-2008, 01:32 AM
Hmmmm,
I wonder what Print a part would charge?:eek:
I think this would be the holy grail of afteremarket parts.
It's looking good tho Rick :thumb:
Laz
Andrew Hall
02-28-2008, 03:00 PM
Hi Scott, thanks for the confirmation.
I have tried to recreate the square mesh but it demands such absolute precision that, done by hand, mine just didn't look right in 1/35.
I've always thought that somewhere on this earth, someone uses the exact stuff we need in a filter or something :)
Rick, late war for this one?
Andrew
RickLawler
02-28-2008, 05:16 PM
Hi Scott, thanks for the confirmation.
I have tried to recreate the square mesh but it demands such absolute precision that, done by hand, mine just didn't look right in 1/35.
Rick, late war for this one?
Andrew
Hey guys....nothing like a little metal grating to get the conversation perked-up!!! :p Even considering doing it by hand makes me question....oh never mind. :rolleyes:
You are quite the info center, Scott, thanks.
Jan, I don't think that sanding from the underside will work, the Tamiya pattern isn't deep enough. Given the information from Scott, probably the best/easiest solution would problably be to notch out the sides a little and stack about 6-8 sheets of the grating together to get the proper depth ($$$$).
Larry...are you talking about (David Harper's?) company that uses the 3D printer - yep, that would be slick!
Andrew, I was thinking mid...'43ish, yellow - no camo. I'm pretty sure that the Tamiya kit is an earlier pattern vehicle...yes? Triangle hub protectors, no grab handles, signal on the front fenders....though it seems like a mix of all models are seen thoughout the war. Question about the wheel hub...can the protectors just be left off, or is the hub a completely different design? They all look the same to me.
Thanks guys.
PS ---- Saul..I should be able to post-up the turret dimensions tomorrow. Sorry it's taking so long.
Andrew Hall
02-28-2008, 06:08 PM
Hi Rick,
I think it's a 'late' or Ausf.B chassis; raised roof, cast visors, blah-de-blah....
Digging a hole for myself, I'll get some images together and go through the features if you want.
Andrew
Sticky
02-29-2008, 08:09 AM
Of course you could just buy multiple sets and laminate them together.
RickLawler
02-29-2008, 02:04 PM
Rick,
...Chris not only covered all the details of the Jacques Littlefield example, he even obliged me and took detailed measurements of the turret! These are on the CD. I asked since it is the same turret as my back burner Sd.KFz. 250/9 Alte project. You can always let us know how accurate the replacement turret is. :)
Regards,
Saul, here are the dimensions of the the Lionroar Turret....hope it helps, let me know if I can be of better assistance.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/dimension1.jpg
So, lets do a little bending and soldering topside...the turret.
The parts layout....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/22.jpg
this is the extra armor which fits inside the front interior of the turrent...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/24.jpg
The turret...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/25.jpg
Ok, so this is small, delicate stuff....these are the attachment points for the gernade screens....the locator notch before...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/27.jpg
...and after placement...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/26.jpg
the more or less assembled turret with interior armor and visors installed...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/29-1.jpg
Well, that I believe puts most of the heavy duty bending and soldering behind me. Now that wasn't so bad, was it?
Of course you could just buy multiple sets and laminate them together.
Yes John, that was my thought also which I mentioned to Jan on a prior post. I imagine that it would really jack-up the $$$ for these PE sets, but I think that engineered, multi-layered parts could be quite effective for situations such as this.
Hi Rick,
I think it's a 'late' or Ausf.B chassis; raised roof, cast visors, blah-de-blah....
Digging a hole for myself, I'll get some images together and go through the features if you want.
Andrew
Thanks Andrew. By all means post photos' if you feel so inclined...they are always interesting and appreciated. As for the variant details, I'm pretty clear on the very early vs. later production differences.....visors, grab handles, wheel caps, filter system, gun mount....to me, it seems as though the Tamiya kit portrays a mixed bag of some older and some newer details.
thanks everyone,
Evan August
02-29-2008, 03:26 PM
Looks pretty nice Rick.
canjuaan
02-29-2008, 04:56 PM
Yes, very nicely soldered. Good work.
Johannes
Instructorrob
02-29-2008, 05:48 PM
The Portland Metal Man strikes again.
Nice Rick, very nice
Great work...Rick :thumb:
skeletondude
03-01-2008, 01:03 AM
You 'da man, Rick! :thumb: :D
It look's great! Will this be in a dio?
Marek
Larry Bates
03-01-2008, 01:47 PM
Nice job Rick :thumb:
Laz
Panzergrenadier
03-01-2008, 10:00 PM
Rick, I know it has been said countless times, but you are the king of PE. I like your attitude of ''anything can be done, nothing is too complicated''.:thumb::thumb::thumb:
RickLawler
03-03-2008, 12:17 PM
Rick, I know it has been said countless times, but you are the king of PE. I like your attitude of ''anything can be done, nothing is too complicated''.:thumb::thumb::thumb:
Thanks Siim, that was nice to hear. I'll try to keep that in mind the next time I'm at my wit's end messing-up the fiddly bits.
Well, here we go again. Lets move into the interior. The parts sent to me from Lawerence are featured here. The directions for parts placement supplied by the manufacurer are nothing more than a VERY BAD black-n-white photocopy, So, a lot of looks at the Littlefield vehicle were needed to get it sorted-out.
Even though this is an "open topped" vehicle, by the time the turrent and gun are in place, much of the interior do-dads will be barely visable.
The resin parts in place. I also added the firewall, the details are mostly a guesstimate as references were a little scarce.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/41.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/42.jpg
Time to paint the interior...primer
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/44.jpg
Interior base colors.....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/45.jpg
Interior painted, detailed, and weathered...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/45-1.jpg
I also spent a little time with the gun...first a comparison between the kit supplied barrel (silver) and the Lionroar barrel (gold)
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/46.jpg
The gun completed assembly. Some of the Lionroar etch are provided for details. I also added a few details of my own making, and switched-out the kit MG34 with a Gen2 from my parts box.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/47.jpg
It's coming together quickly now...thanks for looking.
panzerjager
03-03-2008, 01:50 PM
Oustanding!!! Yeah, I'm with Panzergrenadier, you're the King of PE!!!!
Wow! Krylon primer serves for our work??!!! More amazing!
Keep working, please
Darío
Jan Peters
03-03-2008, 02:21 PM
The gun and interiour are looking great Rick!
Jan :)
skeletondude
03-03-2008, 02:33 PM
Jawdropping work, Rick, just top notch. :thumb:
I could go all day saying, how good it is, but there aren't that many words in my vocabulary! :D
Marek
Evan August
03-03-2008, 03:51 PM
That sure is nice. What is your mix for the interior color?
Sticky
03-03-2008, 07:10 PM
Uh Rick, you gun isn't gonna fire. Please check the loaders Blood for controlled substances.
RickLawler
03-03-2008, 07:52 PM
The magazine isn't attached yet...I guess I wasn't paying attention ....thanks.
ECLIPSE
03-03-2008, 10:40 PM
Outstanding work Rick.
You da man.:thumb:
One question with the floor, how much is paint and how much is pigment?
Cheers
Pete
Looks great...Rick :thumb:
lquah
03-04-2008, 11:21 AM
Very nicely done Rick. Love the floor effect :thumb:
Lawrence
RickLawler
03-04-2008, 12:43 PM
Outstanding work Rick.
You da man.:thumb:
One question with the floor, how much is paint and how much is pigment?
Cheers
Pete
What is your mix for the interior color?
Thanks guys. As for the interior painting; the base color is a mix of the 3 Vallejo's (green ochre, neutral grey, white) probably in a 3-1-.5 mix - sorry, but I'm really not that specific with the mixes. I did lighten the mix with white midway through and hit the upper surfaces, boxtops etc., just to lighten them up a little.
For the floor, I sprayed a base of German Grey mixed with Tan Earth, just to get a dirty grey color. I also allowed the color to creep-up the lower sidewalls, mostly to add a little shading.
The entire compartment was then given a wash of Yellow Ochre oils, and the floors got an additional wash of Raw Umber. Then the Mig's, a mix of European Dust and Beach Sand was randomly dabbed on the moist (from thinners) floor. A couple of repeats with oil and pigments to build it up to make it look well tracked-up with gunk. So, the short answer is that there is quite a bit of pigments over an already dirty color.
thanks again guys.
RickLawler
03-05-2008, 12:11 PM
Hey guys, well it's coming together now. This first photo kinda hurts...ouch...a little damage.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/48.jpg
And here it is....pretty much ready for paint.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/55-touchup.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/56-1touchup.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/58-1touchup.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/57-1touchup.jpg
Thanks for following along.
Sticky
03-05-2008, 12:27 PM
Super duper! How about a big dent in the stowage boxes?
skeletondude
03-05-2008, 12:39 PM
Great, just great Rick! :thumb: I agree with John, BRING ON THE DAMAGE!!! :D
Marek
RickLawler
03-05-2008, 12:40 PM
Super duper! How about a big dent in the stowage boxes?
Hey John...I tried a dent on the bottom little box...and it started to break-up the hinges!!! I've got a dent in the triange-ish box, though not too deep and it's not showing that well on the photos.
I think that I'll get some primer on it and perhaps I'll get a little better perspective of what is needed/possible.
Paccus
03-05-2008, 12:41 PM
Looks great ! :thumb:
Have one myself but with the Royal Model etch-set instead. Got some resintires with chains to go with it. Your thread really inspires me to start building it.
Anyway. Your model looks really good and nice soldering too.
Start up your airbrush and get some paint on it.
Cheers
RickLawler
03-05-2008, 12:42 PM
Great, just great Rick! :thumb: I agree with John, BRING ON THE DAMAGE!!! :D
Marek
Oh, I see how it is...lets break Rick's toys!!!!! :eek:
I'll keep looking at it, Marek. I surely wouldn't want to go overboard, would I?????? :rolleyes::D:rolleyes:
Evan August
03-05-2008, 12:52 PM
Came out pretty nice Rick.
Jan Peters
03-05-2008, 02:13 PM
Bring on the paint, leave the damage Rick ;)
Jan :)
Sticky
03-05-2008, 02:36 PM
ok maybe no more dents, how about a stray bullet hole!
lquah
03-05-2008, 02:38 PM
Rick
Aren't you going to do the overhang? :p ;)
LQ
sharkmouth
03-06-2008, 08:58 AM
well, VM just sent me their Sd.Kfz. 222 detail set...a lot looks familiar. Voyager Models did change their instruction page format to long sheets that are folded to fit in the CD case. However, they forgot to put step or page numbers on them so it is a touch confusing when more than one sheet is included.
Regards,
Driver
03-06-2008, 11:08 AM
Rick, it really looks way better than Tamiya ever though possible!!
Great work my friend.
Ruben
Totenhosen
03-06-2008, 11:20 AM
Call me crazy, but I simply love seeing models in the stage just before paint, almost more than the finished product. You can really see the artistry and craftsmanship that went into it. Looking forward to seeing more pix!
Gopher
03-06-2008, 11:47 AM
wow! looks great Rick!
Panzergrenadier
03-06-2008, 04:36 PM
Very cool looking.:thumb: I think a few bullet holes would be a nice addition. Again it is a shame to cover it with paint.
sharkmouth
03-06-2008, 11:57 PM
...but I simply love seeing models in the stage just before paint, almost more than the finished product.
I love naked models too!
Regards,
RickLawler
03-07-2008, 12:16 AM
well, VM just sent me their Sd.Kfz. 222 detail set...a lot looks familiar. Voyager Models did change their instruction page format to long sheets that are folded to fit in the CD case. However, they forgot to put step or page numbers on them so it is a touch confusing when more than one sheet is included.
Regards,
Saul, feel free to post-up scans of the Voyager PE here so we could do some comparison....and....did those turret measurements help?
I love naked models too!
:p:o:p
Jan Peters
03-07-2008, 12:29 AM
Over here in Europe (at least in Holland and Belgium) we have a 'naked kit' class at competitions.... yours would fit right in, so come on over and join the fun ;)
Jan :D
greybeard
03-07-2008, 02:19 AM
Over here in Europe (at least in Holland and Belgium) we have a 'naked kit' class at competitions.... yours would fit right in, so come on over and join the fun ;)
Jan :D
That's a very good idea. I might even enter in such a class. I don't participate in contests any more, haven't for years. Too often the judges don't know anything about the subject or the model, and presenting teh model without paint would show off the changes and workmanship. They could then base their decisions on something besides how pretty the colour scheme is.
Very nice build, Rick. It amazes me how you keep cranking them out like this.
Cheers
Scott Fraser
Totenhosen
03-07-2008, 09:08 AM
Over here in Europe (at least in Holland and Belgium) we have a 'naked kit' class at competitions.... yours would fit right in, so come on over and join the fun ;)
Jan :D
That would be awesome. All the IPMS events I've ever been to here in the states, they don't allow you to enter a kit that is "unfinished".
james84
03-07-2008, 01:28 PM
Excellent!
Jan Peters
03-07-2008, 02:45 PM
That would be awesome. All the IPMS events I've ever been to here in the states, they don't allow you to enter a kit that is "unfinished".
Please note: unfinished kits are not allowed to enter... all has to be finished, just not painted (exceptions are made for interiors, as most are finished after entering in the naked class)
Some examples from Dutch and Belgian shows:
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/Jan-Peters/diversen/kmkscaleworld2007002.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/Jan-Peters/diversen/Lier2007060.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/Jan-Peters/diversen/SMC013.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/Jan-Peters/diversen/SMC014.jpg
I'm sorry if I polute your thread Rick :o
Jan :)
Totenhosen
03-07-2008, 11:52 PM
Yeah - I should probably rephrase that...they will let you enter an unpainted kit, it's just not eligible to be judged in the competition. That's the rule with the Region 6 IPMS group, may not be the case with other regions.
sharkmouth
03-11-2008, 04:30 PM
Hi Rick,
I'll take photos as I no longer have a scanner.
The measurements you gave are helpful and I will compare them to those provided in Toadman's Tank Pictures CD. While I don't have a Sd.Kfz. 222, all the bits are useful in other projects. :D
Regards,
RickLawler
03-12-2008, 12:15 PM
Hi all, well she's no longer naked! :eek::p
Watching Adam's painting, beginning with his KV, the Nun Nun, and finally his Panther F, I thought that I'd incorporate some of his "modulation" ideas to this project.
The basic idea is that light and shade is simulated by "...airbrushing different tones in my base-coats to add depth and contrast helping to differentiate various details from each other..." - Adam Wilder
Overall base coat of Tamiya X-60 Dark Yellow and Vallejo White. Note: for some reason on this session, mixing the Tamiya and Vallejo did not work well..I got a very uneven, gloppy spray. I was able to overspray and finally even things out.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/60.jpg
Next, I darkend the mix with XF-18 (Med.Blue) and spayed certain panels, expecially on the lower areas of the vehicle. I lighened the mix with XF-55 (Deck Tan) and lightend specific areas on the upper surfaces.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/61.jpg
I then took my Vallejo arsenal and mixed various shades of yellows and browns to further differentiate certain features.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/62.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/64.jpg
I will say that the results in real life are a lot more obvious that the photos relate. I think that as a base for further painting and weathering this process has a lot of potential, as it will certainly make for a more interesting foundation for the next steps. The next steps of the "modulation" process further refine the features using brushes to pick-out certain details.
take care,
MartinD
03-12-2008, 03:10 PM
Hi Rick,
Looks like a very promising start to me. To start blending some bits together, you can always a very thin coat of the base colour. Also note that some of the top edges of the side panels can be sprayed with the Deck Tan and Dark Yellow mix. Keep the airbrush tilted, so you don't spray on the upper deck, and move away from the model as you get lower.
A bit hard to explain in words (real thing is much better) but the photos at armorama should give you an idea.
Oh, and there's no need to respray this one, methinks ;)
Best, MartinD
Andrew Hall
03-12-2008, 04:47 PM
Rick, I learned the "don't mix Tamiya and Vallejo" lesson before. Same as you (I think), it seemed to thicken up. Weird.
Looks good so far, I think it's always good to try new tricks. Adam did a good article on ML a few years back, I'll see if I can find it.
Andrew
RickLawler
03-12-2008, 05:08 PM
Martin, thanks again for taking the time to share your first-hand observations of Adam's work...most helpful indeed. In short, Martin explained to me that the color differences, or modulation, which Adam achieves are actually quite pronounced - more so that what I have done.
Andrew..I'd swear that I'd mixed T&V before with no problems....lessoned learned! It made for a frustrating beginning to the painting session.
Also, here is the link to the recent article that Adam posted on Armorama concerning modulation:
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2006
Within the article he mentions that Tamiya is not really an acrylic, which would explain why a person shouldn't mix the two brands when painting.
thanks
Hello Rick,
your painting looks very good so far!:thumb:
I think I have to learn some more about this "Adam Wilder style".
Please keep us updated!
Best regards,
Notger
Andrew Hall
03-12-2008, 05:26 PM
Nice article, thanks. I think Vallejo doesn't like the alcohol thinner used to cut the Tamiya, at least that's what I put it down to!
Here's Adams article that was a big influence on me a few years ago
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/awpaint/awpaint.htm
Andrew
RickLawler
03-12-2008, 05:38 PM
Nice article, thanks. I think Vallejo doesn't like the alcohol thinner used to cut the Tamiya, at least that's what I put it down to!
Here's Adams article that was a big influence on me a few years ago
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/awpaint/awpaint.htm
Andrew
Thanks, I'd forgotten about that article.
I'm not sure about your alcohol theroy. I've been helping Notger offboards this past week with painting and so when I finally got around to painting I was actually paying attention to what I was mixing. When I got to the Vallejo's, I mixed them 5-2 to 5-3 with alcohol and they sprayed like a dream. You can just "see" when the mix is right...it's hard to explain but you know it when you have it correct.
Water and window cleaner also works.
More research???
Panzergrenadier
03-12-2008, 06:26 PM
Glad to see some paint on it.
As far as your "modulation", I have to be honest and say I think, as it looks at this stage, is a bit overdone. Some areas and panels that have mere millimeters separating them seem to be of very different color. The ''roof'' especially seems bit too dark. It might just be that this is the rough stage and you probably will refine it, but I mind as well be honest now than later. :rolleyes:
Will you be adding any camo as well? I am looking forward to seeing what you will do next.;)
Take care!
RickLawler
03-13-2008, 10:40 AM
Siim...appreciate your comments, you made me take another look at what was going on. Upon further evaluation, I agreed with you on some points, especially that the roof was too dark....(Que music of impending disaster)...so in somewhat haste, I brought out the airbursh and tried to make some MINOR adjustments. Well one bad thing led to another bad thing, and before I could stop myself I had a real mess.
So, I brought out the kitchen cleaner and scrubbed the paint off down to the primer....now I get the opportunity to try again!
Here is where I am now, back to primer grey....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/65.jpg
This is all probably a good thing. I actually did learn somethings from my first attempt which I will hopefully be able to successfully apply now on my second try.
Time to crank-up the airbrush for Round 2.
later all,
Gopher
03-13-2008, 10:53 AM
Good luck with Round 2, Rick!
PS can't wait to see this baby painted!
pwranta193
03-13-2008, 11:42 AM
how much brass had to be reapplied?! I think that the modification was a good idea - sorry to hear that it was a little shop of horrors in the doing :(
I need to go back and look at his article again as well... but I don't remember the shift in colors being so great (i thought it was more of a shift in tonality) in the appilcation. This coming from the guy that used two completely different colors on the STZ - but as Siim said, looking at the earlier shots, the jump was too big.
I too am looking forward to the next round...
PS - what I find really terrifying is that you have a progeny in college. How old we have become...
Panzergrenadier
03-13-2008, 02:40 PM
Oh...now I feel all this is my fault.:o:(
I really hope you nail it this time around!
Hello Rick and Andrew,
thank you very much for the links of the Adam Wilder style ;)
and Rick, good luck with the 2. round!
I'm really looking forward to your painting!
Best regards,
Notger
Sticky
03-13-2008, 03:39 PM
gasp! how could this happen!
Andrew Hall
03-13-2008, 04:49 PM
Awwwww.....Rick!! Bad news. Dont lose heart, I'm sure it will be reborn.
Andrew
RickLawler
03-13-2008, 05:22 PM
Oh...now I feel all this is my fault.:o:(
No fault buy my own, Siim. Thanks again for your honest eye.
gasp! how could this happen!
The lesson is John: Do not try and fiddle with something when you have only a limited amount of time....YOU WILL F IT UP!
...how much brass had to be reapplied?!
Well, my soggy NW modeling buddy - say it with me; "Solder is My Friend!" Ain't technology grand?
Awwwww.....Rick!! Bad news. Dont lose heart, I'm sure it will be reborn.
Indeed it is reborn. New paint has been applied and everything is going to be OK. I should have some pics tomorrow. The method is more "traditional", or perhaps more "my style", but I believe that the results will be fine.
Notger, pretty ironic that you and I have been talking about painting this past week, then to have all of this transpire...jinxed? That's the beauty of this hobby, every step a new adventure.
PS - what I find really terrifying is that you have a progeny in college. How old we have become...
I may be getting old(er), but I'm staving off the growing-up thing the best I can. BTW, club meeting on Tuesday.
RockOn guy, thanks for the nice thoughts.
lquah
03-14-2008, 07:00 AM
Rick
Bummer about the paintjob. Reminds me of the Thai kickboxing match I watched on the weekend in Bangkok. The guy in red got pummeled in the first round and had a cut open up on his left temple. He was bleeding all over himself as the guy in blue kept hitting the wound. At the break, he went back into his corner and regrouped himself and came back out and ultimately won the fight.
So here's to round 2!
Lawrence
RickLawler
03-14-2008, 02:19 PM
Welcome home LQ! Well in the spirit of the cut and buised fellow in red...back for Round 2.
I'm having a devil of a time getting the pictures to reflect the nuances of the color variations, but they are there. I really just did what felt comfortable for me this time. It's pretty traditional, I used the Model Masters British Sand mixed with Vallejo white as the base. On the upper panels, hatches, odds-n-ends, I added some yellow to the mix to really brighten it up some more. In the shadow areas I mixed in some German Field Grey. A little Vallejo Khaki was also used to change the mix from time to time.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/66.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/67.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/68.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/69.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/70.jpg
Now the fun really begins....:)
take care everyone,
canjuaan
03-14-2008, 05:07 PM
Hello Rick,
you did a wonderful job on the base color. And with all the weathering steps still to come, I already can imagine an excellent model.
Johannes
P.s.: Without it's tires and gun, the kit somehow reminds me of a little bug or something ;)
Sergionex
03-14-2008, 05:47 PM
I like it very much! :thumb:
MartinD
03-14-2008, 06:09 PM
Hi Rick,
Nice one so far, and looking better than the previous attempt.
I don't know for sure, but you might want to check the photos Jan posted (either here or at ML) of his turret. Still need to get mine online, but we applied some very light coat at the top edges of sides. Spray from below, and tilt the model so the overspray will not harm the top panels. Big contrast? Yes, that will happen ... but oil blending will take care of that.
Cheers, good luck and keep an eye out for my version of modular painting on a Sherman ;)
RickLawler
03-14-2008, 06:44 PM
Thanks Martin...I believe that I understand what you are explaining. I did some of that, though not to the extent that Adam did with the his airbrush. Subsequent to these photos, I've brought out the regular brushes and began further highlights (and shadows)including those edges. The simple fact of the matter is I'm much more comfortable working with regular brushes than my airbrush.
Keeping my eye out for the Sherman!!!!
MikkoH
03-15-2008, 04:23 AM
Nice recovery Rick! Seems like everybody have become grazy about "Adam Wilder".:D
Nice painting job...keep it up :)
Sticky
03-15-2008, 04:32 PM
Super recovery!
Larry Bates
03-16-2008, 02:44 AM
Hi ya Rick,
It's looking good. The second time is always a charm :thumb: Solder is the only way to go, so when you got to scrub out the bunk paint job it all stays in place.:thumb:
Did you have any trouble darkening the yellow with the grey? I would think it should turn some shade of green. Good luck. If you want another alternative for next time, try adding abit of purple to the yellow, it will make it more brownish.
Laz
Panzergrenadier
03-16-2008, 09:17 AM
YEAH!
Bring on the weathering!
:cool::cool:
Jan Peters
03-16-2008, 12:12 PM
To save you some time looking for them:
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/Jan-Peters/diversen/E1019013.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/Jan-Peters/diversen/E1019012.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/Jan-Peters/diversen/E1019011.jpg
The 222 looks better the second time 'round Rick! Adams' modulation style adds even more contrast, which will be blended with the oils. Still it easy to take this over the top, so care must be taken not to over do this! I think you have a fine base for weathering now, maybe just lighten a few hatches or pannels here and there ;)
Looking forward to more, cheers, Jan :)
jagdpanzer
03-17-2008, 09:05 AM
This turned out fantastic!
Man, personally I didn’t found the time to work on single part during the last 2 weeks.
And you show us one masterpiece after another!
I’m really curios about your weathering. It seems a while since I saw something in yellow from you. And I'm looking forward to see your weathering, as you improve your technique with each model you build.
Keep it up,
Manuel
RickLawler
03-17-2008, 05:43 PM
Thanks Jan for taking the time to post the pics. It seems the more I do, the more I'm going back to my ways...I don't thing that's such a bad thing either. :)
Man, personally I didn’t found the time to work on single part during the last 2 weeks.
And you show us one masterpiece after another!
I’m really curios about your weathering. It seems a while since I saw something in yellow from you. And I'm looking forward to see your weathering, as you improve your technique with each model you build.
Keep it up,
Manuel
Hey Manuel, sorry 'bout the time constraints, I'm sure things will swing back around and you'll get back to the plastic and glue.
You're right, it's been awhile since I did a monotone paintjob. As you can probably tell I'm a little "out there" thinking that I need to bring something new to the table. As I'd mentioned above to Jan, I'm kinda settling back into my tried-n-tru groove. So this one may be less about a new revolutionary technique, but as always it's good to get the paints out.
Thanks to everyone for the well wishes for a speedy recovery when the paints were running out of control.
Jan Peters
03-17-2008, 06:25 PM
Rick, you are developing your own style my friend ;)
Jan :)
RickLawler
03-19-2008, 01:10 PM
Rick, you are developing your own style my friend ;)
Jan :)
Thanks Jan, that means a lot! ;)
Well, lets see where my style is leading me. I've begun, and it's only a beginning, the painting/weathering. I realized that the most noticable aspect of what I do is that I do is lots of layers in very small steps. And lots of back-n-forth working on different areas, using different tools (airbrush, brushes, acrylics, oils, etc.)
So, what I've done so far is given the vehicle some light filters, mostly trying to bring more highlights to some of the upper panels using some of my old Humbrol emamels highly diluted with thinner. I then gave the model a spray of Future....I just need to seal it to feel comfortable....:o
I then decided to jump in and begin with the damage on the fenders. I first mixed up some rusty colors and gave the corners a light squirt. I've then come back with the brushes to tighten it up. I've also begun to put some blemishes on the vehicles surfaces, going over it lightly with a small brush to make small scratches and scrapes.
So here's a WIP update....the colors for the rust.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/71.jpg
The color is added....
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/72.jpg
Back with the brushes...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/75-1.jpg
Slowly I'm working my way around the car...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/74.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/76-1.jpg
an overall shot for context...This photo shows that I have also given it a very light wash of Vandyke Brown...mixed with a little Yellow Ochre.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/77.jpg
Back to work...thanks for looking.
janno823
03-19-2008, 02:13 PM
Looks nice
That's one mad machine:thumb:
dsleigh
03-19-2008, 03:31 PM
Beautiful work Rick! And very nice recovery, a day spent and having learned nothing is wasted. My compliments to the chef!
Gopher
03-19-2008, 05:08 PM
amazing!
ECLIPSE
03-19-2008, 05:20 PM
Beautiful 222 Rick. Personally if I look at a model I like to be able to tell who has built it, everyone has there own 'look' if you know what I mean. Adams builds are mind blowing, but I know they are Adams. The same with Mig and over here,Hilly's, Sheeds and Sammys. As the Mac would say "go your own way".
Rock it Rick.:cool:
Pete
the_dagger
03-19-2008, 06:16 PM
Looking really good!!
One question thou. Is the 222 suppoused to be damaged or just "worn"?
RickLawler
03-19-2008, 06:23 PM
Looking really good!!
One question thou. Is the 222 suppoused to be damaged or just "worn"?
Perhaps "worn" is a better term. I took advantage of the PE fenders and bent them up a little, so I'm just trying to represent some wear-n-tear on the dents.
The remainder of the vehicle will be very much intact and operational.
Thanks guys for the encouragement...it's always a little daunting for me on these first few steps.
pwranta193
03-20-2008, 01:46 PM
Okay - to my eye, what you've got here is a vehicle in perhaps late '44 - but that came off the production line a year or two earlier? The wear and tear is impressive - and in this case I buy the story. I have a problem with eight week old vehicles that look like they have been sitting behind the barn for the last two decades.
With the armored car - from what I remember about your build notes this would fit the time and place. I especially like you method of spraying the rust base and going back over it with surface colors and scratching detail. I think the brass distressing (scale thinness) is a real compliment to your efforts - and it is all coming together well. I see that you are still working on details (shovel blade, etc.) - and would suggest that you might throttle back on the rusted uprights on the left rear fender... they are approaching that old farm equipment look :)
As with everyone else - I think that this is a nice recovery, and likely your best work to date.
Major Becker
03-20-2008, 02:59 PM
Hello,
Very nice job Rick..!! I Like the result..
rey
Panzergrenadier
03-20-2008, 07:03 PM
The Rick- method is born!
Seriously cool stuff there, it really looks old and like it has seen all kinds of weather.:thumb:
pwranta193
03-20-2008, 10:03 PM
The Rick- method is born!
Oh, Jeez - now there will be no living with him. 'Building Armored Cars the Rick Way'... published by Willamette Press. Free T-shirt if you order two :D
RickLawler
03-24-2008, 02:23 PM
Hi guys, thanks for the support......Let's update!
Well, after some fumbling around trying to reinvent the wheel, I'm back to my basics. Since the previous updates, I've gone around the vehicle with a small brush and slightly lighter and darker shades of the base color, making numerouis small scratches and chips. No fancy artwork here, just random light lines. I also gave it markings of the 4th panzer division...for no other reason than I had some Archer Transfers.
I've then switched over to the oils. I mixed various shades of cream, yellow, and browns, and spent another couple of days going over the vehicle with light washes and blending.
The colors used...white, yellow ochre, raw umber...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/80.jpg
A few shots of where I am now. I"m getting close to done with the oils, then I'll be doing a little more detail painting, then the pigments.
and would suggest that you might throttle back on the rusted uprights on the left rear fender... they are approaching that old farm equipment look
Point well taken, Paul. Hopefully it's looking the deal..let me know.
Fire!
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/85.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/86.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/87.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/88.jpg
Big Thanks, everyone....
Sticky
03-24-2008, 03:37 PM
Top Notch stuff Rick - I like this type of weathering better I thinks.
the_dagger
03-24-2008, 03:42 PM
Loves the weathering so far!!
Hi Rick,
very nice paint job!
I like this kind of weathering.
Keep up your great work!
Notger
Looks REAL...great work...Rick :thumb:
Gopher
03-25-2008, 08:49 AM
outstanding painting job Rick!
any plans for dio?
Evan August
03-25-2008, 11:51 AM
Looks pretty nice Rick!
Sergionex
03-25-2008, 11:58 AM
Cool! :thumb:
Panzergrenadier
03-25-2008, 01:38 PM
I feel like I should copy paste my postings here, I have nothing but good words to say!
Cheers mate!:thumb:
RickLawler
03-25-2008, 09:00 PM
I feel like I should copy paste my postings here, I have nothing but good words to say!
Cheers mate!:thumb:
They are always appreciated, Siim.
Monotone yellow vehicles are a bit tricky to "get right"....and I'm not there, and I know it, which bugs the hell out of me. I'm not terribly happy with the base colors and the oils may be a little heavy handed.
Oh well, I'll keep moving along with it...
any plans for dio?
Andrey...I don't have anything in mind, and I think that's a lot of my problem with the finish on this one. I haven't had any real context or final vision in mind so I think that I've been kind of wandering around. I think it's about time I settle on something...say before I do more weathering and really muck it up!
Thanks again for all of the support and encouragement, it really is helpful and it does mean a lot to me. :)
Jan Peters
03-26-2008, 01:15 AM
Monotone yellow vehicles are a bit tricky to "get right"....and I'm not there,
Whats the problem? It looks fine to me! :thumb:
Jan :)
greybeard
03-26-2008, 01:52 AM
You're scary, bud!
The only criticism I might make, and this is very subjective and may be more the effect of the photography, is that the contrasts (with the weathering) are rather strong. To my eye, they may be overstated and in need of a consolidating dusting with a neutral dusty-tan shade.
Other than that, it's an exquisite piece, akin to a Fabergé egg . . .
Cheers
Scott
Sheeds
03-26-2008, 03:18 AM
Love your finish, Rick. Top notch. :thumb:
Sheeds
Larry Bates
03-27-2008, 12:16 PM
Looks awesome Rick,
If you feel it's a bit heavy on the weathering, just hit those areas a bit with a gentle dusting of dirt. I think maybe you should hit the mufflers with some dust coat, one to take the shine out, and two because everything gets dusty, even rusty mufflers. :thumb:
My two centavos.
Laz
lquah
03-27-2008, 10:30 PM
Rick
Very well done. :thumb: I like the rusty fenders.
Lawrence
Stuke Sowle
04-06-2008, 07:03 PM
Excellent work as usual Rick. Seems to me that much of your work should be published in the various mags out there.
RickLawler
04-14-2008, 05:37 PM
Hello everyone. Somewhere during this build I kind of got sidetracked; first with trying new painting techniques, then with the T-34 build. Each of these distractions made me loose a bit of my focus and as a result I have certainly stuggled with finishing this one.
I was still unhappy with the painting after the last redo, so since my last update I once again stripped the paint, reprimed, and began anew. This 3rd go around was done more to my usual techniques and style. Alas, after all of the messing around I'm not sure if my heart was really in the right place. But, I have said that I believe that much can be learned from the struggle, and that I always will finish a project once started.
So, with that said, here are some final shots of my Sd.Kfz. 222 Leichter Panzerspahwagen.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/correctspelling2.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/106.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/107.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/108.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/108-2.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/109-1.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/110.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/Sd%20Kfz%20222/DSC_0442.jpg
As always....thank-you very much,
the_dagger
04-14-2008, 05:51 PM
WOW!! That 222 looks great! Really nice weathering!
ECLIPSE
04-14-2008, 05:51 PM
Superb finish Rick, I love it. Then again I have loved all the finishes on this one:D
skeletondude
04-14-2008, 11:43 PM
Absolutely AMAZING, Rick! :thumb:
So, what's next?
Marek
Brilliant! It's amazing, great, etc. I like it very much!
Hello Rick,
what a great looking 222!
I really love the paintjob and the weathering!
I just have one little question, how did you achieve the look of the jerrycan holder on picture #7?
Best regards,
Notger
canjuaan
04-15-2008, 08:00 AM
Yep, another stunning model by Rick. Great work, it looks very good.
Harry Steen
04-15-2008, 08:47 AM
Hi Rick,
I really love how this came out! If you really believe your heart was not in the right place ....what would happen if it would be ;-)))))
Cheers,
Harry
Sticky
04-15-2008, 09:33 AM
Looks top notch to me Rick. I really like this 3 times a charm gem!
Stuke Sowle
04-15-2008, 12:39 PM
Well, you what they say, third times a charm. Although the first two attempts looked pretty good to my eye.
You've really captured some nice color variations on the base paint. No doubt effects that would have been seen on one of these vehicles as it raced back and forth across the North African desert.
I also like the subtle color difference between the gas cans and the vehicle. Great work all around Rick. Be proud of her!
MartinD
04-15-2008, 04:27 PM
Hi Rick,
It ha turned out to be a great model despite all the bumps you ran into. Perhaps the learning curce was steep, but it has paid off. I admire you for being able to push yourself to actually finishing a project :thumb: ... it would have been shelved if it were on my desk, probably
Cheers, MartinD
Gopher
04-15-2008, 05:07 PM
Amazing! Outstanding painting work!
Great work, Rick!
Radek Pituch
04-15-2008, 05:44 PM
Rick...
I must admitt that your PE work on this one is superb. I also like the way you've painted it. Neat looking "222". What's next on the bench?
Radek
louisuni
04-16-2008, 12:00 AM
This little car looks really cool. Love the rusting effect on fenders.
Bravo Tango
04-16-2008, 08:07 AM
Well that has reset the bar to a new level, for me anyway.
Rick,that to my eye is great...just fantastic.. from end to end.. and we ain't finished yet I reckon.. this is a seriously good model
Sir.. I doff's me lid
:8)
hoolyahn
04-16-2008, 08:35 AM
I'm g