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SDKFZ
08-01-2007, 03:21 PM
Hi

This is my build of the 1/35 Dora railrgun.

I will be trying to correct the most obvious errors that I notice. As the available reference is limited there has been room for creativity.
There is no way I can say if a steel plate is to be 0,5 mm or 1,00 mm thick.

I’m not the fastest model builder in the world, so don’t expect daily/weekly updates. I will probably also be having a lot of breaks as I without doubt will be tire and bored in periods.

Best Regards
Sdkfz

Driver
08-01-2007, 09:43 PM
Looks very good for starters. Hope you finish it inside a year. :D

Ruben

Finnmodeler
08-02-2007, 03:08 AM
That is something I will never build :) Too much of... everything... Put measuring stick to pic to show the size. Coin isn't enough, I guess :D

Niko

SDKFZ
08-02-2007, 03:37 AM
Maybe I should explain what I have done regarding the above pictures.

This is step 18 in the instructions. The Instructions tells you to put this part at the back of the Dora, this in fact is the front part.

There are locating holes made for these parts buy unfortunately they are positioned at the middle of the model and not at the top, where it is supposed to be.

The outer shape of the parts has been remade to adapt to the shape of the sides, and according to pictures of the real thing.

I don't thing the interior is 100% correct, as I don't have any complete reference. The holes in the plates inside has been made so they resemble pictures on the step 20 parts.
There is a picture of a person standing on a latter inside step 18, so there definitely are a way through.

Bolts: Step 18 consist of 2 identical structures. These 2 structures must have been bolted together some kind of way, and this is my guess.

I will put a back plate on when I have painted it, in a few years :rolleyes:

Cheers
Clavs

Larry Bates
08-02-2007, 10:00 AM
Looks good Clavs,

Please keep us updated. :thumb:

Laz

SDKFZ
08-02-2007, 10:47 AM
The support arms.

You have to make 2 parts into 1, unfortunately there will be a lot of filling and sanding. Therefore I have cut out the supports and replaced them with plastic strips.

Bonus is that the supports inside are more correct as they are not supposed to have the same with as the sides.

The support on top have received new bolts, and has been shortened, as they appear to long.

Update: The support arms are wrong as they are not suppsed to be strait. Will get back to this in the next 10 years or so

lquah
08-02-2007, 09:42 PM
Clavs

Welcome to PA. That's one helluva monster project you chose to start with :eek: ;) :) Good luck with it and looking forward to see more of it.

Lawrence

Target_J
08-02-2007, 10:32 PM
Clavs,

Wow, your extra detailing is amazing. I've been building mine as per the instructions.

You mentioned that the modified part is supposed to fit at the front, but the front part has a sloped part what goes into the 2 vertical slots where screws are attached. I have test fitted this monster and the part is well hidden after assembly.

There has been some rumblings in other posts that the locating holes for this particular part is incorrect, but i had no problem whatsoever with mine. Just make sure when the inside bulkheads (Parts L3 / L4) are correct, and this can be easily done by making sure the 2 holes for the screw on the main body corresponds with the vertical slots on the inside bulkheads.

I do agree that this part doesn't look right as there simply isn't enough space for a person to access the walkways in between.

Jeremy

James Tainton
08-02-2007, 11:43 PM
As I have one of these this thread is of great interest. Hope you can keep adding updates as you go along. I wonder if with your modifications and progress shots, you could include reference images that relate to the real thing?

Larry Bates
08-03-2007, 01:30 AM
Nice progress Clavs :thumb:

Laz

SDKFZ
08-03-2007, 02:57 AM
Clavs,

Wow, your extra detailing is amazing. I've been building mine as per the instructions.

You mentioned that the modified part is supposed to fit at the front, but the front part has a sloped part what goes into the 2 vertical slots where screws are attached. I have test fitted this monster and the part is well hidden after assembly.

The 2 slots are for step no. 20, make sure that these are at the back. The screw holes are to be filled as they are made for the step 20 parts, but are located at the front. If I remember the pictures in the instructions you can see that there are written front and back on step 18 or 20.

There has been some rumblings in other posts that the locating holes for this particular part is incorrect, but i had no problem whatsoever with mine. Just make sure when the inside bulkheads (Parts L3 / L4) are correct, and this can be easily done by making sure the 2 holes for the screw on the main body corresponds with the vertical slots on the inside bulkheads.

The locating holes are positioned to low, the step 18 parts are supposed to be at the top of the mainframe, not in the middle. You will have problems with the large PE part to be put between the 2 mainframes. I believe that this has to be cut in 2 and positioned on both sides of step 18. But I have not looked at this 100%.

I do agree that this part doesn't look right as there simply isn't enough space for a person to access the walkways in between.


Jeremy

As I have one of these this thread is of great interest. Hope you can keep adding updates as you go along. I wonder if with your modifications and progress shots, you could include reference images that relate to the real thing?

I could add pictures from the Gerhard Taube book, but don't think this would be leagel. Maybe I can just write on what page I have seen this.
I you wish to detail you Dora, and then maybe never finish it:D , this is certainly the book to get.


Cheers
Clavs

Target_J
08-03-2007, 07:04 AM
Hi Clavs,

You mean the Step 20 assembly is supposed to go to the back? From the booklet page 32, Step 20 fits into the 2 vertical slots (circled in Red) and there are two holes at the bottom where the 2 screws locks.

After reading your post, i test fitted the pieces and they do go as per the instruction booklet. I have uploaded some pics in my vBench thread.

I do agree that the 2 Step 18 parts are too low if you follow the locating holes (circled in Yellow) since it's impossible for the personnel to access the walkways.

I'll try fitting the large PE fret this weekend to see if there're any fit problems.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h171/Target_J/DSCN1064.jpg

SDKFZ
08-03-2007, 07:43 AM
Hi Jeremy

I don't think there are any problems with fitting the parts as per instructions. The Large PE part will also fit as per the instructions. The model is just designed wrong and with a number of errors.

I have looked at you vBench, a very well-built Dora you have made there, I wish I was at that stage now.

Actually I had difficulties in deciding for myself if I just was to built the model and be happy about it, or go nuts and try to correct it.

I'm at work now and don't have any reference with me so I can't direct you to it.
Please let me know if you have the book by Gerhard Taube.

Clavs

Target_J
08-03-2007, 07:54 AM
Clavs,

Before i started, i searched high and low for the Gerhard Taube but was unable to get it. So i decided i might as well build this monster as it is. It's a book recommended by everyone but it was only available from the German based shops.

I really wished i had the book, but perhaps it's a blessing in disguise since i would have taken way longer if i were to correct the errors.

On Page 23, there's this triangular structure (parts R21, R37 and R44). I've read that it might not be on an assembled gun ready for fire. It might have been there for transportation purposes. What do you think?

SDKFZ
08-03-2007, 11:04 AM
Hi Jeremy

If you look at the instructions, on page 5.

Picture 2 you can see the front support between the 2 mainframes. This part is flat on the top and not sloped as steep 20. In front of this there is a thread plate, maybe part of PE no. V3.

Picture 3 shows step 20, on this you can see it is written, "Liker Träger, Hinten", so that is left to the rear.

I don't know about the triangle, sometimes it there sometimes not, sorry

Clavs

Target_J
08-03-2007, 11:40 AM
Hi Jeremy

If you look at the instructions, on page 5.

Picture 2 you can see the front support between the 2 mainframes. This part is flat on the top and not sloped as steep 20. In front of this there is a thread plate, maybe part of PE no. V3.

Picture 3 shows step 20, on this you can see it is written, "Liker Träger, Hinten", so that is left to the rear.

I don't know about the triangle, sometimes it there sometimes not, sorry

Clavs

Clavs, you're absolutely right. It looks like Part 18 should go to the front and part 20 to the back. I will not take a tremendous amount of correction, just switching the inner bulkheads so that the vertical slots go to the back, and filling the holes. How are you gonna go about this?

The other thing to note is that Parts M9 (2 pieces) and M5 (2 pieces) should be left off carriage no.2. It's part of the transporting equipment. Can't recall where i read this information but it should definitely be credited to the person who pointed this out.

NAS
08-03-2007, 11:59 AM
Looks good Clavs,

please keep us updated!

To be honest, I don't understand a lot of these impressive railroadguns, but could this be a Dora in the video? (starts at 2:25min.) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eF_cSBnHno

Notger

Panzergrenadier
08-03-2007, 06:43 PM
The size of it is just impressive! All the best in building it!:thumb:

holmerz
08-05-2007, 05:11 AM
Impressive project and nice work so far Clavs :thumb:. Nice to see yet another Dane joining the PA.

\Erik

brokeneagle
08-05-2007, 08:58 AM
This is great, i'll just sit back and watch with interest as you guys are saving me a shite load of pain when I come to do mine:thumb: :) .

SDKFZ
08-06-2007, 04:19 PM
Hi all

Thank you for your comments and welcome to PA.

Time for a small update.

The large bolt C13 at the back has been thinned. 1 large bolt has been added in the middle. On the underside a bolt the same size as C13 has been made and added to the bottom, without a bolt.

The front C13 has not been corrected yet. This part also needs to be thinned, 6 small bolts to be added again. A kind of fork has to be made and put on the top of C13 at the front. The underside is another story that I will come to at a later stage.

I have drilled a hole in the middle of part P4 and P3.


Part C6 and P8 have been modified. The part has been lengthened and new rows of bolts and washers have been made.


I started to modify part O31, but have decided to try and make a new one, as I’m not satisfied with the design of the part as it is.

Cheers
Clavs

James Tainton
08-06-2007, 04:25 PM
Saw this posted over at Missing Links today...:yell:
A bit of a disappointment but probably something that is fairly easily corrected. Just glad I didn't buy the metal barrel!:)

Manufacturer Info about the 1/35 DORA railway gun kit
August 6 2007 at 10:53 AM Fredrik Lundbeck (Login pratglad)

it's that they have the wrong barrel lenght installed in the kit.
I've just had a mail conversation with them and they agree.
I have offered them scans of my scale plans for the DORA so that they can make a new part for us who has bought the kit.
I hope that they will offer the eventual replacement parts for free, although we will have to wait for their answer.
Anyhow, it is the wrong barrel in the kit. For some reason they choosed the barrel for the "Langer Gustav" 52cm gun, which was only a paper proposal for a modification of the Gustav/Dora 80cm guns.
The bad thing is that it will take some for them to make up their mind after that they have recieved the scale plans from me.
The good thing is that it's only the front part of the barrel that is affected if you aren't that picky. So if you want a quick fix it's quite easy to do. Just shorten the barrel and move the rifling plug backwards.
You will need a spacer to fix it though.
If you want to be more accurate you will have to have a new front end made by someone with a lathe. You can make it in delrin plastic or any other lightweight material. As it's a tapered barrel you must use a lathe.

If you need any info about the correct size please contact me offline by using my mail (Please remove NOSPAM).

Best regards
Fredrik Lundbeck
IPMS Stockholm
SWEDEN

lquah
08-07-2007, 02:26 AM
Clavs

You are really getting stuck into the guts of the brute :) Those blocks look like Lego :D

JT
I hope that Soar Art provides the replacement corrected barrel for free. :)

LQ

SDKFZ
08-07-2007, 04:40 PM
Saw this posted over at Missing Links today...:yell:
A bit of a disappointment but probably something that is fairly easily corrected. Just glad I didn't buy the metal barrel!:)

Hi

I didn’t want to check the barrel length at this moment. As I think there are enough problems with the model.

Fredrik Lundbeck is correct. According to the 1/48 drawing by Robert D. Fritz, and the measurements in the Gerhard Tabue book, the barrel is way to long.

My thanks to Fredrik for contacting the manufacturer. As every one else I hope they will make a new barrel, as I don’t have a lathe. Maybe this is a solid argument, to talk the wife into buying one

Clavs

Target_J
08-07-2007, 09:03 PM
Clavs,

I am eagerly waiting to see your work on Dora. Just finished the 2nd carriage last night.

Up until this barrel issue came about, i was kind of pushing this project through, but i've now decided to take it slower and wait till this barrel issue is resolved.

From the pictures, i'm curious why you primed certain parts but not the others? Is the entire Dora primed in red oxide primer?

Keep up the great work. It's inspiring.

tamigawa
08-07-2007, 11:47 PM
Great detailing :thumb::thumb:

SDKFZ
08-08-2007, 01:55 AM
Hi Jeremy

I have only primed some of the parts, so I can see what I have made of changes.

Usually I prime all my model; it makes it easier to see any errors. The primer is from Motip, and makes a very nice surface. They also make it in white and grey, but I like the red one.

Clavs

Target_J
08-08-2007, 05:27 AM
I see,

Interesting choice of primer. I initially though you red oxide primed the entire model for the later weathering stages.

Previously i tried using the commercial primer once, but the texture was too 'rough' and it covered some details. So i am now using mainly Mr. Surfacer 1000 as primer. My local hobby shop had 25% off all Gunze products so it was the perfect time to stock up on supplies for Dora.

I must say that Dora needs priming as the glossy black plastic makes it kinda hard to spot for errors.

Thanks for the info Clavs.

the angry greek
08-17-2007, 01:26 PM
Clavs,
It's been a week or so since your last update-I need to feed my habit for the Dora- I'm having withdrawal symptoms.
Chris the Angry Greek

SDKFZ
08-17-2007, 01:35 PM
Hi Chris

I told you in the first post that I was a slow model builder :p .
To much work and surfing on the internet.

If I'm lucky I will have made a new step 20, by Monday.

/Clavs

SDKFZ
08-21-2007, 05:22 PM
Hi

Time for a small update.

I have made a new step 20, or at least half of it :)
It has taken a lot longer time then I expected.

Again the interior might not be correct, but the exterior part is more correct then the kit part.

Cheers
Clavs

SDKFZ
08-21-2007, 05:24 PM
Hi

Can anyone guess what this is going to be, when finished?

/Clavs

canjuaan
08-21-2007, 06:52 PM
To be honest, no ;)

Hey, it's hitting me... it might be a DORA, right?!

Enough kidding, very nice extra work you're doing. The kit's way too big for my home but I enjoy workbench articles like yours very much, so keep it coming.

Johannes

Driver
08-21-2007, 08:38 PM
Wow!! At this rate you'll end up making your own Dora from scratch!! But you are doing a great job. Keep it up! :thumb:

Larry Bates
08-22-2007, 02:23 AM
This is going to be awesome when you're done :thumb:

SDKFZ
08-23-2007, 04:18 PM
Hi

Pictures of the finished part, from the post above. The part is completely missing from the kit.

It has not been glued, as the kit par needs modifications. I will not risk messing it up.

Sorry for the poor picture quality.

/Clavs

lquah
08-24-2007, 01:49 PM
Clavs

Where is this part in the overall scheme of things? The kit is huge and I can't work out which section you are working on :(

Lawrence

djohannsen
08-24-2007, 03:59 PM
Clavs
The kit is huge and I can't work out which section you are working on :(

I agree... I just can't tell what this is or where it goes.


Dave

SDKFZ
08-29-2007, 06:47 AM
Hi

I can understand that it might be difficult to see where the different parts are located.

The part above is located under the platform, between the 2 large supports.
I will be difficult to see them, when the model is done.

But I know its there ;)

Cheers
Clavs

MrPlasticmodel
08-30-2007, 05:25 PM
Hi Clavs
I'm a little pusseld how do yoy know that the part should be in that place?
Do yoy have access to the original plans or something like that? I's quite a venture you have started.. Very nice build.

Panzergrenadier
08-30-2007, 09:01 PM
The scale of the thing still amazes me and of course your work is up to it too!:thumb:

SDKFZ
08-31-2007, 02:16 AM
Hi Clavs
I'm a little pusseld how do yoy know that the part should be in that place?
Do yoy have access to the original plans or something like that? I's quite a venture you have started.. Very nice build.

Hi Dan

Længe siden.

Sadly no original drawings. I have the 1/48 drawings by Robert D. Fritz and the book by Gerhard Taube "Deutsche Eisenbahngeschütze. Rohr-Artillerie auf Schienen"
The book is loaded with detailed pictures of the real thing under construction.

http://www.amazon.de/Deutsche-Eisenbahngesch%C3%BCtze-Rohr-Artillerie-auf-Schienen/dp/3613013525/ref=sr_1_1/302-1109949-6384861?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1188541056&sr=1-1

I was planning to scratch build it a few years ago, luckily I only made a few parts.

I know the measurements are not 100% correct, but it's better then the model.

/Clavs