Soldering SBS

[tamigawa]

I know Sam already did one one here, but Rick and I decided that we needed one with pics. ;)

So....

Here are some basic tools that you'll need for soldering and working with PE in general. In addition to what is show here, you'll need some very fine steel wool, preferably 4 ought. Fluz is a nessesity, and you will need a roll of fine solid core solder. Do not get the rosin core kind. I also find a 3 hand tool usefull to hold solder in easy reach and to hold solder wick (more on this later)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0194.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0226.jpg

Also, you will need a soldering iron. It doesn't have to be a variable temp one but, if at all possible, it should be. Mine cost about $35.00 and the tips are about $2.00-5.00 each. I usually work at about 700 degrees but you can go as low as about 250 to 400. (IIRC)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0195.jpg

I use a extra fine tip:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0201.jpg

a fine chisel tip:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0202.jpg

and the most used, a fine tip:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0208.jpg

[tamigawa]

So, let's start.

(These parts were already soldered together, I pulled them apart as I didn't really have any other PE that would be a good demonstration)

The part I will be working on is a side fender piece from Aber's Panther set. It needs to have a support bracket fitted to the bottom and a small rivet attached to the top.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0211.jpg

First, you spread a bit of flux over the area that the part will be soldered on to. The flux helps the solder to flow into the joint and also cleans the metal.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0222.jpg

Next, I added the rivet:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0224.jpg

Now, after heating my iron up to 700 degrees, I flick it against the solder that is held by the 3 hand tool. You don't want too much solder, or too little. When you flick the solder, it will go "puff" and a bit of white smoke will come up. (If you can see a ball of solder on the iron, it probably needs cleaning. Use a wet sponge and wipe the tip clean. DO not use an abrasive as the tips are specially coated and it will ruin them) It is probably not a good idea to breathe the smoke in either as the solder is lead ;)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0238.jpg

Next, using tweezers to hold the rivet in the desired position, Bring the iron to touch the joint. (Most often, if not always, I like to have the parts held together in some way, being tweezers, 3 hand, etchmate, etc. I find it makes the prosses easier) When the iron hits the flux, it will "hiss" and the solder will flow onto the joint. If the solder is not flowing, it pobably means the tip is either dirty, or the iron is not hot enough.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0247.jpg

Here is the soldered joint:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0250.jpg

After the part has cooled, (about 3-5 sec, depending on how big the part is and how long the iron was in contact with it) use the steel wool to clean up and excess solder.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0251.jpg

and here is the soldered rivet:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0253.jpg

One tip, if there is a bit of excess solder on the part, you can spread some more flux on and kind of "flood" the solder around. Then it will not be visable when paint is applied, and what is, can be either scraped off, or steel wool will take care of it.

[tamigawa]

Next, we will do the bracket.

Same drill, flux applied:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0256.jpg

part positioned:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0263.jpg

solder applied:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0273.jpg

Soldered:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0278.jpg

and cleaned:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0280.jpg









Another tip. For small parts, such as rivets, wing nuts etc, you can "pre-solder" them while on the sheet. What this means is that the part is given a thin coating of solder, cut out, and then positioned. The iron is then applied to the part "dry" of solder and the heat melts the thin layer of solder, bonding the parts.

Rick did this part to demonstrate the presoldering technique. Thanks rick. :thumb:


Parts:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/M2%20Halftrack/DSC08052.jpg

Brackets bent and flux applied:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/M2%20Halftrack/DSC08055.jpg

more flux:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/M2%20Halftrack/DSC08057.jpg

Presoldered:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/M2%20Halftrack/DSC08059.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/M2%20Halftrack/DSC08061.jpg

Bonding:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/M2%20Halftrack/DSC08063.jpg

and done:

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/RickLawler/M2%20Halftrack/DSC08065.jpg

[tamigawa]

One last example.

This is the hinged portion of the Panther fenders. It is a good example of how to fill a joint and how to clean up excess solder. :rolleyes:

Here I have the part bend to shape:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0287.jpg

flux:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0292.jpg

soldered:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0299.jpg

Now, since there is a gap on the outside where the two bits were joined, I need to fill it. No duh. ;)

For this, I don't use flux, because I want to minimize the amount of solder that is going to inevitably flow into the inside joint.

Get a liberal amount of solder on the iron, and scrape it off onto the seam.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0303.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0306.jpg

Once this is done, the seam can be sanded smooth.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0310.jpg



Unfortunatly, some solder had flown into the inside seam. Generally, you can just spread it out and use steel wool to clean it up, but for this I'm going to demonstrate using solder wick.

Basicaly, you want to fan out the wick like so:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0312.jpg

this helps the wick to draw the solder. The wick should be dipped into the flux to facilitate the capilary action.

Next, and I use the 3 hand for this, hold the wick to the excess solder, and heat it up with the iron. THe wick will suck up most of the excess and what left can be dealt with steel wool. DO NOT hold the wick in your hand as it gets EXTREAMLY HOT and the solder does flow about 5-10 mm up and WILL burn you. :p


http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0314.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0320.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0325.jpg

the finished joint:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0324.jpg

And installed.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b67/92691/IMG_0327.jpg




I hope this SBS will help all of you who are new to soldering and maybe even some of the veterans will pick up something. :o

[RickLawler]

The Flux is Strong in this One...

Bitchin nice Fletcher...good job and thanks...


Rick

[Larry Bates]

Very Nice sbs Fletcher-san. :thumb:

The soldering "wick" is a new one on me, where did you come by this technology?

Laz

[Larry Bates]

Sorry for the double post,, very slow right now....

[Kit Stasher]

Nice work :). Saved to the hard drive for use later.
ta, Ed

[Jan Peters]

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/Jan-Peters/diversen/sharevh3.jpg
Great SBS Fletcher! :thumb:
Jan :)

[holmerz]

Suberp SBS Fletcher & Rick. Suits me perfect, couldn't have come at a better time, thanks :thumb: .

\Erik

[brokeneagle]

:thumb: At last a soldering guide with pictures thanks guys.

[Panzergrenadier]

Superb!:thumb::thumb:

But still I will not solder.:p:p

[tamigawa]

Thanks guys, glad to be of help.:)

Laz, I got the solder wick at radio shack, it comes in a little roll:

http://www.worldofcables.com/store/catalog/27449.jpg

[tamigawa]

But still I will not solder.:p:p

WHAT!? :p

[Larry Bates]

Thanks guys, glad to be of help.:)

Laz, I got the solder wick at radio shack, it comes in a little roll:

http://www.worldofcables.com/store/catalog/27449.jpg

Thanks dude.

Laz

[Larry Bates]

Superb!:thumb::thumb:

But still I will not solder.:p:p

What?????? :p

[Sticky]

Cheers! That solder wick is just what I have been looking for!

[Sturmmann]

Excellent SBS Fletcher! :thumb:

Very well documented, maybe I will even try and do some soldering myself. ;)

Dave

[tamigawa]

Thanks John and Dave. :)

Dave, if you can do stuff like your Pz. IV now without soldering, I'd hate to think what you'd be like after learning.....:p

[RC_Hill]

That's some good stuff Fletcher.
That soldering wick is seriously the answer I have been looking for! :D

[FJCabeza]

May I ask what kind of iron would be the best if I can´t afford a soldering station?
Right now there´s one in a local model store , it is battery operated and cheap but it has only 6 Watt ...Would it be enought to work with PE?

[RickLawler]

Well I'm not an electical /solder expert..some of the other here may be able to shed a more technical light upon the matter..but this is what I'm using, and it seems to work for me.

I have a inexpensive soldering iron 30watt no regulator, which I purchased for about $12. It came with a tip, fairly large diameter which I have used for most of my work (until recently), including the (MY) work shown on the photo's on the first page of this SBS. The solder and flux were also purchased at the same mass-merchandiser's hardware department.

I recently have purchased a "finer" tip for the soldering iron at Radio Shack after seeing Fletcher's arsenal at the begining of this thread...Tip Envey...that helped.

Batteries....unless you are using rechargable (which are not inexpensive) this will become expensive...

Rick

[FJCabeza]

Thank you for your answer but I´ve tried with a 30W soldering iron before and it was a total mess. That´s why I was asking about lower temperature tools. The 30w one melt all the joints I had done whenever I tried to solder the other...I ended with a big ball of lead and brass melt together XDDD. It must be a matter of ability more than watts I´m afraid.
Oh well this is just a hobby. Isn´t it?

[lquah]

FJCabeza

When soldering where thare are other soldered parts, it is important not to heat those soldered parts to the point where they re-melt.

To draw away heat you need to use heatsinks and alligator clips placed between the part you are soldering and the soldered parts will prevent previously soldered parts from melting. Another trick I picked up from Marco's build is to wet strips of tissue paper.

Lawrence