DML Panzerkampfwagen IV/E

[James Tainton]

Walked into the local hobby store at lunch break and low and behold here was one of these new fangled Panzer IV kits from Dragon sitting on the shelf. Appears I was lucky as the owner only had managed to get two in and one was gone already.

http://www.dragonmodelsusa.com/dmlusa/propics/DIR_DRA/l/l_DRA6264.jpg
The fine artwork by Doug Jameson

[James Tainton]

Here is some of the reference that I have on the Panzer IV E in the "Library"
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=15487&img=achtung3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=15488&img=speil.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=15489&img=6649Untitled-1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18854&img=gp6.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=15494&img=Untitled-7.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=15495&img=Untitled-8.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=15492&img=Untitled-5.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=15490&img=Untitled-2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=15486&img=10panzer.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19149&img=afv15.jpg

[Larry Bates]

Cool James,

When you gonna crack it open and let us see it?
(I love your library,) Hows that book on the 10th panzer division?

Larry

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by Larry Bates@Oct 21 2005, 09:18 AM
Cool James,

When you gonna crack it open and let us see it?
(I love your library,) Hows that book on the 10th panzer division?

Larry
Well I may try and get something done this weekend-but I've got the FAMO tyo do... :( :)
The 10th Panzer Div. book is really wonderful-one of the best ones on my shelves-I reccommend it highly. ;)

more refs

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19304&img=7228squadpzIV.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19308&img=1998tankcombatNA.jpg

couple of other references that have some info on the E chassis
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19236&img=brumbarbook.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19237&img=nbflak.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25451&img=ref21div.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20106&img=smaster23.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25458&img=refpanzersinthe.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25456&img=refmodellingthe.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25455&img=refheimdalAK.jp.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25454&img=refarmourcamouf.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25453&img=refarmorDAK.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25452&img=ref21smalldiv.j.jpg

[James Tainton]

A few more...
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25464&img=refworkhorse.jp.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25466&img=refpanzerivinco.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25465&img=refwhermactpanz.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=25467&img=refafikabook.jp.jpg

A link to Tom Cockle's build.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/thread-1107...a+Panzer+IV+E. (http://www.network54.com/Forum/thread-110741-1129955554-If+it+looks+like+a+Panzer+IV+E.)..

[James Tainton]

Some pics of the parts for the first step in this build-
the instructions
(apparently, according to Tom Cockle,)

Use A27 for the early suspensions up to the Ausf.G. Part A16 was supposed to have been marked not for use but was overlooked.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18816&img=step1.jpg

Drive wheel, front and back and idler
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18812&img=drive_idler.jpg

the drive parts closer
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18815&img=driveparts.jpg

closer
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18813&img=drive.jpg
3D
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18810&img=3Ddrive1.jpg

[RC_Hill]

I saw that over a T-L too...So when would A16 be used then? H and up? (very promising if that's the case for those who want a newer, later Pz IV)

[James Tainton]

Contrast pic of Drive wheel
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18821&img=drivecontrast.jpg

the idler
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18822&img=3Didlera.jpg

There is a seam on the nicely made slided molded one-piece idler wheel that cleans up easily enough.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18818&img=idlerseama.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18817&img=idlerseamb.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18819&img=idlerpe.jpg

The idler end cap
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18820&img=idlercap.jpg

Bumper parts
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18814&img=bumperparts.jpg

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by ramcke_jager@Oct 22 2005, 02:57 PM
I saw that over a T-L too...So when would A16 be used then? H and up? (very promising if that's the case for those who want a newer, later Pz IV)


TOM COCKLE
I have been able to see in photos that part A27 was used right through to the Ausf.F at least.

part 27 question (http://members.shaw.ca/panzeriv/thread.html)

[Larry Bates]

James,

Looks like an awesome kit! That idler wheel seam looks like a breeze compared to the old dml pnzr III idler wheel. And oo oo ooo oo oo. Mr. Kotter, nice shoulder boards and knights crosses! :)


Larry

[James Tainton]

The one piece idler is really a big improvement on the type that is meant to have two pieces glued together. There is a standard type like that included in the kit- which I will maybe use to update a Tamiya Panzer IV I have...
I found that a flat type file followed by some scaping with a scalpel blade did the job nicely.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18831&img=filecleanseam.jpg

here the idler has the pe parts added-I used Future and some CA to fix these parts- I also prior to gluing gave the back of the pe some tooth by rubbing against some sandpaper .
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18832&img=idlerpeon.jpg

compared to this picture of the real thing- it comes pretty close
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18836&img=bookidler.jpg

the two idler finished up with the cap.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18833&img=idlersdone.jpg

compared to the drawing in the Panzer Tracts book on the Panzer IV- the idler comes real close to the dimensions on the drawing.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18835&img=idlerptcomp.jpg

the drive wheel seems to be a miniscule amount under sized..??
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18834&img=drivept.jpg

[James Tainton]

I was wondering to myself, since the DML kit comes with an early and a late hull, and since I will be using the late hull, maybe the DML Early hull could be used to simplify some of the issues with the construction of the Tristar lower hull?
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18842&img=dmltrihull.jpg

the late hull from the right side
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18843&img=hullrs.jpg

front
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18844&img=hullfront.jpg

right side (you can see I've added the mounting parts for the dampers, I find that the gluing on of the small cylindrical parts is easier with these firmly secured to the hull first. Any additional clean-up of the dampers can take place after the joint becomes strong overnight)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18845&img=hullls.jpg

the damper is installed on this shot
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18846&img=hulldamper.jpg

the added side armour that is indicative of the Panzer IV/E
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18847&img=hullsidearmour.jpg

[James Tainton]

A rather strict OOTB build, flaws and all.
Teacher's pet (http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=61746&page=1)

[James Tainton]

Okay more pics relating to the suspension assembly. man this is repetitive work no matter whether it's the old Tamiya Panzer IV or these new fangled "working " suspension types from Tristar and DML. :o
first a few shots showing the parts that make up the road wheels.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18880&img=boogiewheelsa.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18877&img=822wheels2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18878&img=roadwheel1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18879&img=roadwheel.jpg

the return roller with "makers" mark
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18883&img=returnroller.jpg

now the suspension parts -fours sets for each side
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18888&img=7791susparts1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18887&img=underparts.jpg

some clean up of a seam mark here on the spring is tedious but neccessary :(
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18884&img=spring.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18885&img=spring2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18886&img=sus.jpg

[James Tainton]

next you can see I've added some of the parts to the hull tub.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18881&img=hull--b..jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18882&img=hull-a..jpg

[Flak]

WOW...It look COOL ;)

Are you going to correct the "Markers" of the Road Wheels & the Return Rollers (Change the "U" to "L") :lol:

[Larry Bates]

James,

Its looking good, nice looking kit even if it isn't "perfect" the detail is really nice.

[sharkmouth]

That square cutout in the belly armor is right underneath a fuel tank. Seems that this new hull is multi-purpose and the square cutout is in the correct position for a Jagdpanzer IV.

I will be using some sheet styrene and filler to eliminate it. Compare to Tristar's belly armor.

Regards,
Saúl

[paul_owen]

Hi Jamie,

I'm making this kit now too. Do you want to have a race :-P

I've glued four parts together thus far.

I had to stop because, remember that big bottle of super glue I bought from Magic Box that time? It solidified.

Paul.

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by sharkmouth@Oct 24 2005, 09:02 PM
That square cutout in the belly armor is right underneath a fuel tank. Seems that this new hull is multi-purpose and the square cutout is in the correct position for a Jagdpanzer IV.

I will be using some sheet styrene and filler to eliminate it. Compare to Tristar's belly armor.

Regards,
Saúl
Not sure I would have ever noticed this, and not too sure if I'm still concerned after you pointing this out, as I really don't look at the bottom of my kits once they are built very often but thanks in any case for adding to the data base on the adjustments that can be effected on this kit. Hopefully you will post some pics as you progress in your build. ;)

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18919&img=hullbottoms.jpg

[James Tainton]

here are a few pics I've found that relate to three of the ten painting options provided in the kit.
#4
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18926&img=4instructionimage.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18925&img=72164.jpg

#22
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18927&img=22instruction.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18922&img=22.jpg

421 is in behind 431 here
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18928&img=421instruction.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18923&img=421g.jpg

these images come from the 2003 Ground Power book in the reference post.

[sam_dwyer]

Come on, hurry up with that build!
Thanks for posting the pics of the real thing. I wonder how many cheap Tristar D's are on eBay at the moment?

Sam

[Finnmodeler]

Originally posted by sam_dwyer@Oct 25 2005, 02:21 AM
Come on, hurry up with that build!
Thanks for posting the pics of the real thing. I wonder how many cheap Tristar D's are on eBay at the moment?

Sam
:lol: :lol:

[panamadan]

So, does it fit the Tristar kit? I can't tell from the upper angle. Dan

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by panamadan@Oct 25 2005, 07:28 AM
So, does it fit the Tristar kit? I can't tell from the upper angle. Dan
I don't really know yet maybe I'll take a closer look later on... ;)

[panamadan]

Thanks! ;)

[RC_Hill]

Come on, hurry up with that build!
Thanks for posting the pics of the real thing. I wonder how many cheap Tristar D's are on eBay at the moment?

Sam

Only two that I saw lol

Tristar IV D in Italy :--/ (http://cgi.ebay.com/TRISTAR-1-35-PANZER-PzKpfW-IV-AUSF-D-FRIUL-TRKS-3DAYS_W0QQitemZ6007712339QQcategoryZ2588QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Tristar IV D in LA (http://cgi.ebay.com/1-35-TRISTAR-Panzer-IV-Ausf-D-NEW_W0QQitemZ6008327470QQcategoryZ2588QQssPageName ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

That's cool that you found #'4' Panzer James...Where were you able to find it?

[JDA35]

Hi James.

Really like what you got going here.

:)

I heard that the outer bolt detail was
off on the sprockets.

How true is that?

How do they compare to the real thing?

[sharkmouth]

Originally posted by panzerfaust@Oct 25 2005, 02:32 AM
Not sure I would have ever noticed this, and not too sure if I'm still concerned after you pointing this out, as I really don't look at the bottom of my kits once they are built very often but thanks in any case for adding to the data base on the adjustments that can be effected on this kit. Hopefully you will post some pics as you progress in your build. ;)

Hi James,

I'm saving my kit for the plethora of aftermarket parts which are sure to follow, including an interior. :lol:

This information only came about since I was researching the Jagdpanzer IV which I had started a while ago and was wondering about upgrading it using the Jagdpanzer A-0 parts. So, should you ever create a scene where the tank skidded and overturned, you know you'll be correct!

As for my build, look in PlanetAircraft as I have started posting there what will be my next build.
;)

Regards,
Saúl

[sam_dwyer]

Was surfing thru the Australian War Memorial website, looking for images of Panzer IV's in the Western Desert, and found this image:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/samd1/4burning.jpg

I thought i'd seen the vehicle '4' somewhere previously.. and what do you know:
From James' post above..
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18925&img=72164.jpg

I cant imagine there would be many short barrelled pz IV's with the single callsign '4' and a spare roadwheel mounted on the turret - so I think we have a match!

Sam

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by ramcke_jager@Oct 25 2005, 12:41 PM

That's cool that you found #'4' Panzer James...Where were you able to find it?
I did mention from here
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18854&img=gp6.jpg
I think both kits may have their good points. ;)

[sam_dwyer]

More from AWM - not 100% sure as yet if these are the same vehicle - i dont really think so..
Well the first three are the same vehicle (as each other at least)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/samd1/pzivdawm7.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/samd1/pzivdawm6.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/samd1/pzivdawm5.jpg

oops, graphic.. oh and a different '4'
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/samd1/pzivdawm4.jpg

South African troops aparently..
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/samd1/pzivdawm3.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/samd1/pzivdawm2.jpg

[James Tainton]

well managed to get the return rollers and the roadwheels done.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18977&img=rwheelsdone.jpg

[Larry Bates]

Yea!!!! :) :thumb:

[James Tainton]

New book from Herr Cockle.
http://missing-lynx.com/reviews/german/mod026_jprigent.html

[Finnmodeler]

Originally posted by panzerfaust@Oct 27 2005, 08:02 AM
well managed to get the return rollers and the roadwheels done.

Hi James,
this is where I come across a fundamental question:
Should roadwheels painted first:
1. when in sprues
2. when glued together but not glued to axles
3. painted with rest of model

I have tried option 3 and it was worst as there is no way you can paint with airbrush all the places between roadwheels.
1. option I tried with Initial Tiger and must say that it may be the best option. It doesn't matter if some paint comes off when building model as you have SOMETHING between at least.
2. option is tried, too but with not so satisfactory results as it is still too hard to get all places painted.

This, of course, may be much simpler but I just can't grasp the idea :) Any suggestions?

Niko

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by Finnmodeler@Oct 28 2005, 03:14 AM
2. when glued together but not glued to axles


Hey Niko,
I always paint my wheels seperately from the model. I don't glue the wheels on and then the tracks and then paint. I have in the past-painted the wheels while they were still unassembled so as to get complete coverage with a primer red on the inside faces of the road wheel. (from a blog here... Hornisse (http://www.track-link.net/forum/site_blogs/4417)

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18992&img=b_13_8-1.jpg

Start rollin' on the wheels

I am doing something different again here. I want to portray the primer red interior of the two part boogie wheels on this kit and to do that I have kept the parts #1 and #2 apart from one another. The armour hub caps have been placed on the outer boogie sooner to when I normally would, if I were following the directions. Which I'm not. I am buiding to aid in my painting of my tank killer. Some people like to have everything glued together before painting. Not me- I like to keep things apart, in sub-assemblies to make painting easier. I also have learned to keep the little bits off until an first weathering as these tiny bits seem to break off any ways. Those multi coloured, muti material models look pretty neat when photographed but I wonder how good the paint jobs can be when clear access is denied?
Picture #1 shows the two sides that are the boogies for the Hornisse,(I believe they are the same as the boogies on the Panzer IV/F). Picture #2 shows the wheels,(boogie,drive sprockets,idles and return rollers) being primed and pre-shade with Model Master enamal flat black. Next comes some pictures showing the red oxcide primer,(in this case a Railroad models red) and the last couple of shots shows the base dungel gelbv applied. The next move will be to assemble these whells and to paint the rubber and worn metal colours and then to weather and drybrush before adding to the body.

I toyed with the idea of doing the same with this build but I think I should get good coverage using an airbrush and spraying in the gap.
;)

[James Tainton]

well I have done some work with the back plate.
the instruction
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19000&img=hub.jpg

the parts cleaned up (I have only included the left hand side parts in some cases as I didn't want to get all cunfused...)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19001&img=backparts2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19002&img=idlerhub1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19003&img=idlerhub2.jpg

the idler rearend parts together
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19004&img=idlerhubdonea.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19005&img=idlerhubdoneb.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19006&img=idlerhubdonec.jpg

[James Tainton]

part D6 added
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19007&img=towthingy.jpg

the rest of the parts for the back plate on
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19014&img=backpartson.jpg

[Stuke Sowle]

Looking good James, I really should get off my can and start working on mine.

Too much going on though right now, trying to sell my house, find a job, etc!

I will follow with interest though....

[James Tainton]

nice to hear from you-seems like there is a lot going on for you- hope it all works out and you can get some modelling time in.
Here is a few pics of my progress lately...
Half of the suspension arms come in two pieces that need to be glued together to make the rear aspect. I was generous but careful with my use of liquid (Testors) glue here so I could purposely melt the two halves together and get a bit of the melted joint to squish out. This I allowed to cure and set up over night and in the morning it was a simple matter to take a file and sand the seam smooth- this way of doing it saves on using any filler putty etc.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19102&img=supension1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19103&img=supension2.jpg

here is a shot with all the suspension arms complete and attached to the hull-both sides
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19106&img=supensiononside.jpg

and from the front
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19105&img=supensiononfront.jpg

a close up
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19104&img=supensiononcloseup.jpg

a picture to show the other side of the assembly done on the back plate
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19081&img=125backpartson.jpg

[James Tainton]

here is the sheet showing the next few steps.
I didn't follow it exactly-like I didn't glue the wheels to the suspension parts yet- I'll wait to do that after I paint them.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19112&img=steps2,3,4,5.jpg

so lets take a look at the fuel inlet parts- these are really interesting and will be nice to utilize in a diorama for those inclined to do so. For my build they will not be needed as my fuel caps will be closed but I wanted to see what they were about in any case.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19095&img=fuelfiller.jpg

here is one open wth the inside parts attached
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19094&img=fuelcaps.jpg

[James Tainton]

next let's take a look at the front.
In Step 2. we will be dealing with the towing brackets. Each bracket is comprised of four parts. There is a knock out mark on one of these on the inside and it can be filled and sanded or just sand it back like I did- the thickness of the brackets may be a little overscale ;)
this pic shows one of the brackets done and the parts of the other unassembled.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19107&img=towbrackets.jpg
You can see the front armour plate and the lower back plate at the bottom of the image.

here the front plate has been glued in. There was a gap that I noticed and then after looking at some references it appears that the arrangment here is wrong anyways. The front armour plate should go straight across.
A drawing from Achtung Panzer. Comes from the Panzer IV/E section.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19140&img=lowerhullfrontapdrawing.jpg
The kit's side part of the hull has small extensions that extend out beyound the front plate. After I filled the gap with 2 part putty I sanded these juttings flat with the plate, being careful to blend it in where the final drive housing mounts stick out a bit.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19093&img=frontplategap.jpg

one side is sanded
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19100&img=sandedfrontplatre.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19099&img=sandedfront2.jpg

[James Tainton]

just to back up and catch up a bit- in those last pics you can see that some of the final drive assembies have been added. so let's take a lok at the parts Dragon has supplied for us- these again will come in useful in diorama- for building my final drives some of the parts weren't needed.
there are two types of cover plates for the final drives one that need two parts glued together or a single piece that needs to have some tiny conical bolts. I choose to use the single pieces... B27 and B28.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19087&img=6585driveparts.jpg

these parts are all you really need to complete the final drives.(B17 & BB22 are not really needed.)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19085&img=drive-parts2.jpg

this pic shows all the parts that you could use.
there is a joint that could be filled if you want(I did)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19086&img=drive-parts3.jpg


http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19088&img=driveparts4.jpg

the final drive housing in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19090&img=finaldrivehousingon1.jpg

here the conical bolt heads are to be added. I carefully removed the bolts from the sprue trees and then used a small drop of Testors on the little nipple that the bolt head sits on and then stuck it there. I managed to pull this off without loosing one! :lol:

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19089&img=finaldrivecapbolts.jpg

[James Tainton]

So here the front showing the tow brackets on.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19109&img=towbracketson2.jpg

and the bolts on the final drive cover
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19084&img=conicalboltson.jpg

There are ten parts that go under the hull along the sides that need to be glued on next. I think, according to scratches made to keep track of which part was which that I did, the numbering in the instructions was wrong. Oh well it's pretty easy to figure it out with trial and error any ways.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19083&img=bottomp[arts.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19111&img=undersideprotectionon.jpg

you can see the back plate and the bottom plate added here. (that juicy seam will be cleaned up when the cement is dry)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19098&img=plateson.jpg

another shot from behind
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19091&img=fromtheback.jpg

the rear tow hooks are on
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19110&img=towhooks.jpg

from the side
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19092&img=fromtheside.jpg

and from the front
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19101&img=sidefront.jpg

[James Tainton]

Here are a couple o threads you may find interesting

track-links (http://www.track-link.net/forum/modelling_kits/3119)

Missing lynx (http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1130658052/Kunihito%27s+DML+Pzkpfw.IV+Ausf.E)

[Stuke Sowle]

I was going to point out that thread on ML as I was going through your build James, but I see you beat me to it! :)

I find it interesting that some want to nit-pick this kit to death when the drawings don't even match, so one can't even really be sure what exactly is right. Bottom line, this is an amazing model with a huge amount of options for a bottom line price...how can we really complain?

Two years ago if someone told you that DML was going to pull off a model like this or their Tigers, you would've checked to see if their pupils were dilated. Yet he we are where it is a reality.

I look forward to seeing more progress....

[James Tainton]

another pic showing the front aspect. Note that in this pic of the Panzer IV/E it appears besides the lack of the protusions on the side at the front, the final drive armour piece actually needs to have more bolts than on an Ausf. D
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19146&img=frontboltheads.jpg
It appears that I was right when I also said that the drive wheel appeared small compared to the drawings in Panzer Tracts- :)

[Andrew Hall]

Looks good.

What I've been finding odd is where guys are quoting Doyles drawings in Panzer Tracts 4 for dimensions. In my copy it says Doyles plans were originally 1/24 but have been reduced to approximately 1/35.

But what's niggling me just a bit is I've just paid US$54 inc p&p for a kit that, from reading latest Tom Cockles statement on ML today, is going to be corrected and re-issued. There's a moral there somewhere and it's don't buy a kit within six months of it's launch and let James do a blog on it :)

[panamadan]

Originally posted by Andrew Hall@Oct 30 2005, 02:56 PM
Looks good.

What I've been finding odd is where guys are quoting Doyles drawings in Panzer Tracts 9 for dimensions. In my copy it says Doyles plans were originally 1/24 but have been reduced to approximately 1/35.

But what's niggling me just a bit is I've just paid US$54 inc p&p for a kit that, from reading latest Tom Cockles statement on ML today, is going to be corrected and re-issued. There's a moral there somewhere and it's don't buy a kit within six months of it's launch and let James do a blog on it :)
Maybe they are turning out like their 251's...

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by panamadan@Oct 30 2005, 02:21 PM
Maybe they are turning out like their 251's...
Well I don't think that the mistakes, oversights on this Pz. IV/E compare to the 251's. There are more glaring errors on those , speically on the earlier ones than on this Pz. IV. Let's not throw the baby out with the bath water ;)

[James Tainton]

AHA- more will be revealed...
this pic lifted from the TL thread clarifies why there are those extra bolt heads- there is a smaller additional armour plate cover over the final drive...
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19147&img=f0b86604e79bb900d4b14337402a8a54.jpg

Discovered I have another great reference
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19149&img=afv15.jpg

[RC_Hill]

Most interesting....That Bovington IV is crazy man... :lol:

Would the first cover be one piece (like you have it) or two? It looks like the first cover is two pieces....

[James Tainton]

I was inspired to go through my old stocks and came up with these old Verlinden Panzer IV sets.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19193&img=verlindenpzIVinteriorpage1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19194&img=verlindenpzIVinteriorpage2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19201&img=compart1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19199&img=carmpt2.jpg

and the engine compartment
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19195&img=VPPzIVenginesidea.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19196&img=VPPzIVenginesideb.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19202&img=engine1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19203&img=engine2.jpg

[sam_dwyer]

I bet you a Coke you cant get them to all fit inside the IVE!

Sam

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by sam_dwyer@Oct 30 2005, 11:52 PM
I bet you a Coke you cant get them to all fit inside the IVE!

Sam
Hey Sam- how's yours coming-any paint yet?
I'm not sure what I'll do with these- just thought I'd post the images for interest sake. I have the CMK stuff too which I will take pictures of later and post. If anything I would maybe, after doing some thorough research into the inside of a E, use these as the basis for some scratch building. I most likely won't use either interior or scratch too much. The only reason I would feel compelled to add the interior is to help get more "into" the understanding of the make-up of this vehicle.
I hope to be getting this book very soon...
it may help me there.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/willphelps/P4SurvivorsAd.jpg

[sam_dwyer]

Hi James,
No paint on mine as yet - i'll probably try to get a coat on later today, and post some images up shortly

Sam

[Finnmodeler]

Originally posted by panzerfaust@Oct 28 2005, 11:01 AM
Hey Niko,
I always paint my wheels seperately from the model. I don't glue the wheels on and then the tracks and then paint. I have
I toyed with the idea of doing the same with this build but I think I should get good coverage using an airbrush and spraying in the gap.
;)
Hello James,
thanks for the tip. I painted Tiger II road wheels while in sprues with primer red but that of course was a mistake. Version I'm building is Feb´45 so it should be Olive Green! I have to repaint those wheels and hull as well. Or could I just leave some red primer behind wheels?
I also painted Tiger II wheels 1/35 scale but I didn't manage to get enough paint between wheel gap. Oh well, I have to try some other method to do that.

I'll put some pics to my blog when I get some time to do it,
Niko

P.S. Your PzIV is coming along fast and as always, very helpful notes during buildup. If there was a way to save your blogs with one click. Now it is just copy-paste marathon :lol:

[James Tainton]

Here are the parts for the engine air inlet, top and back plates
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19214&img=topairintake1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19213&img=topairintake2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19198&img=backon.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19373&img=4261step6.jpg

[James Tainton]

couple of other references that have some info on the E chassis
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19236&img=brumbarbook.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19237&img=nbflak.jpg

and the parts for the front MG Kugelblende
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19206&img=gunportparts.jpg

[James Tainton]

The smoke candle rack that comes with the kit
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19218&img=smoke1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19217&img=smoke2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19216&img=smoke3.jpg

these parts are only dry fitted- the alignment is off because of that- this will be corrected in the actual build.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19215&img=smoke4.jpg

an image from Tom Cockle's beautiful upgrade job he did in the AFV 15 issue
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19239&img=tomssmoke.jpg

[James Tainton]

Steps 7 and 8
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19374&img=9194step7.jpg

now for some pics of the amazing machine gun et. al that comes with the kit-
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19208&img=machinegunparts.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19209&img=mg34.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19210&img=mg342.jpg

[James Tainton]

More on that later...but here are some to catch up
the side armour pieces- standard and the aplique' that goes on top. Holes are needed to be drill in the primary armour plate where little nipples that are on the back of the extra armour need to go, if these are to be implemented
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19211&img=sidearmourplates.jpg

here are the parts for one of the engine deck covers- I'm a little confused as they give two PE metal, inside pieces and I'm not sure if I need to use both or if if only one- which one for which configuration- (the instructions are not clear on this, at least to me) I think I have decided to do a DAK version -there were tem n E's sent to Afrika... I'll have to do more research or maybe someone can tell me-which one is for the DAK version? :)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19204&img=enginedeckcover1.jpg

the larger one
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19219&img=enginedeckcover2.jpg

normally I would use the ABER stuff and some real wood to make my jack block but I think I'll just try this Dragon set-up.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19207&img=jackblock.jpg

One thing I'd like to say about this kit- it is really starting to get fun working on it!- It may not be anal ly perfect but it is FUN. The engineering and fit are excellent- super! :lol:

next a shot showing the clear vision block parts- most of which will be covered in paint.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19200&img=clearparta.jpg

a shot of the contentious front armour plate and the transmission access doors.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19205&img=frontplatea.jpg

here the first set of armour for the sides and front are glued in place for posperity
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19212&img=sidepartson1.jpg

[James Tainton]

more shots of the mg assembly this is all just a quick dry fit anf the parts will still need some cleaning up and wot not. The gun assembly is glued together as well as the movable Kugelblende. these are brought together in a test fit.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19242&img=mgholder.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19243&img=mgholder2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19244&img=mgholderfromabove.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19245&img=mgholderfrominfront.jpg

(note:at the rate I'm using up my band width with the interst people are showing in this builld these pics may disappear in a few weeks and I may have to wait for the end of the month to get a new cycle... :( )

[Flak]

It looks SUPERB ;)

note:at the rate I'm using up my band width with the interst people are showing in this builld these pics may disappear in a few weeks and I may have to wait for the end of the month to get a new cycle... )

This news is too bad for us :( ... KitPic should provide you are deluxe account in UNLIMITED band width... ;)

[Larry Bates]

James,
This kit looks very well detailed :) , pretty soon if the companies keep progressing, we wont have to buy so many AM parts......I have mixed feelings about that. :( Nice build you've got going, love the mg.

Larry

[James Tainton]

Well I'm sure there will always be room for improvement.... ;)
here you can see the side apliquae armour about to be secured to the primary armour. Locating holes need to be drilled if this is your option.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19240&img=apliquesidearmour2.jpg

clamped in place to dry. You can see the driver visor Klapp has been added as well
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19303&img=6709apliquesidearmour3.jpg

I also remembered last night that I had recently purchased this book.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19304&img=7228squadpzIV.jpg

It has a couple of shots of some of the paint option samples.

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19305&img=11thinstruc.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19306&img=11thpanzerpic.jpg

[RC_Hill]

here are the parts for one of the engine deck covers- I'm a little confused as they give two PE metal, inside pieces and I'm not sure if I need to use both or if if only one- which one for which configuration- (the instructions are not clear on this, at least to me) I think I have decided to do a DAK version -there were tem n E's sent to Afrika... I'll have to do more research or maybe someone can tell me-which one is for the DAK version?

The box art showing that is confusing...I believe that it goes either way, but using the bigger piece I think would be best....The bigger piece, from what I recall, would be the best to use because I recall seeing a pic (I think it's in Tom's book about DAK armour) that showed a short barrelled IV (a D or an E) and that the engine deck hatches were open and you could see that 'pattern' was there...It was one of the actually many pictures that were taken by advancing British soldiers...showing the little slots with that real thin strip in the middle...It looks like it works best if you have an engine in there, but I used it in case someone ever gets nosey because you can still see those little strips in there...Besides, using both creates an unnecessacy redundancy because when i tinkered around with it, it just covered up the same thing twice....

Looking great so far James :thumb:

[James Tainton]

Thanks R.C.- I had also noticed this while scanning some references last night.
This pic is from Jentz's book, Tank Combat in North Africa
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19308&img=1998tankcombatNA.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19307&img=enginescreen.jpg

[James Tainton]

did some soldering tonight -nothing big. Just the two supports under the jack block mounting. The parts are really tiny and were successfully bent into shape with my Etch Mate pe bender.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19309&img=jackblocksolder1.jpg

here I have pre soldered into the area the folded bits will go.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19310&img=jackblocksolder2.jpg

and the parts in place. I'll still have to clean this up abit but remember this is on Macro- those parts are miniscule-Watch out for the carpet monster with those. I'm sure you can just use a CA glue to secure them- no real need to solder- I just like the stregnth of that bond.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19311&img=jackblocksolder3.jpg

[avukich]

James,

I am planning on building the 11th Panzer Division vehicle in the Balkans that you posted the picture for (from the Squadron book). Do you happen to know how to tell whether or not part A27 or A16 should be used for the leaf springs? Do you know what the difference (i.e. what variants those parts are common on) between those two parts is?

Thanks,
Adam

[RC_Hill]

I don't mean to take your wind here James, but try this Adam....

http://www.track-link.net/forum/modelling_construction/8314

[James Tainton]

some intersting posts at ML
http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/threa...+on+DML+Pz+IV.. (http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1130955755/Ok%2C+this+is+my+last+%26quot%3Brivet+counting%26q uot%3B+on+DML+Pz+IV..).

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/threa...on+DML+PzIV+E. (http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1130972769/Some+thoughts+on+DML+PzIV+E.)..

[James Tainton]

The front plate was glued onto the bottom of the hull. The instructions would have you attach it to the top-I felt this way had a better chance of not messin' up.

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19367&img=frontplate.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19374&img=9194step7.jpg

Fender part D2- this is the one with the locating holes. I did want to use the ones without the holes but I guess I'm pretty tired and I glued these ones with the holes to the upper shell before realizing it. So now, I don't know if I'll go with the tools with the clasps already molded on or try and use the PE clamps somehow. Can't take the fendes off cause it'll make a mess of it...oh wel, I'msure I'll be building a few more of these... :lol:
Some have said these fenders are too thick but you know these fenders are very very well made. There is detail above and below. The edges are thinned down so as to look in scale. Only real close scutiny would give away any thickness issues.I haven't had time to totally examine the tread pattern but it looks great. The engineering and fit is scumptious. This is far and above any kit out there as far as design/engineering and fit are concerned.
There is a locating rib that goes in behind the top part of the superstructure and the air intake area has many bolts that slot into the grating parts for perfect alignment.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19352&img=9254fender1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19353&img=3675fender2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19354&img=fender3.jpg

That's it for tonight... I'm frikkin' baked and things are not going exactly as I would like... not a totall bummer by any means but I know when to take a break and try again later.... ;)

[James Tainton]

Here you can see the up-armoured top shell
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19371&img=topwitharmouron.jpg

here the fender and the body side by each...
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19355&img=fenderandbody.j.jpg

with the fender in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19362&img=fenderontop.jpg

here you can see the bolts on the fender that perfectly snug into some cut-out on the air-intake grating
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19357&img=fenderbolts1.jp.jpg

the ridge along the fender really helps with alighnment too.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19358&img=fenderbolts2.jp.jpg

from underneath
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19376&img=fendersonundern.jpg

the alignment and fit of the fender to the body is very concise ...you can tell a lot of time and care was taken to make things go together in a very precise way.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19359&img=fenderjoint1.jp.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19356&img=fenderbolts.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19364&img=frontfenderjoin.jpg

[James Tainton]

Here is another example of the time, design and thought that has gone into this kit. On part D12 and D11 there is a little square that seems big at first. But once in place the proper profile is acheived to the securing strap with no effort. It all fits so nicely.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19369&img=4438frontsidearmour.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19368&img=frontsidearmour.jpg

those pics are just for demonstration... I needed to glue the parts to the fender.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19370&img=8873frontsidearmour.jpg

from the front with the fenders in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19361&img=fenderonfront.j.jpg

and from the back
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19360&img=fenderonback.jp.jpg

[Larry Bates]

cool :thumb:

[James Tainton]

and now the rear mud flap...
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19435&img=rearmudflap.jpg

in place on the model
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19366&img=frontmudflaps.j.jpg

next I decided to commit to a DAK vehicle so I glued the appropriate plastic parts in place and will add the metal ones after- I figured this would be the best way to ensure the metal parts don't get glued in wrong and the I can't get the hatches in right.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19350&img=egine-hatches-o.jpg

from the rear
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19351&img=enginedeck.jpg

Step 9 instruction sheet drawing
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19642&img=6985step9.jpg


the radio op and driver seat hatches seem to be very well designed and have a real "authentic" look to them.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19363&img=frontdriverhatc.jpg

soon work on the turret can begin.

[James Tainton]

A test fit of top to bottom looks good. You may be wondering why I want to build the kit this way? Basically I want to be able to do some painting and gluing of interior parts and will need to keep the top off till that is complete. Here I have glued in the radio operator extra armour. First the steel bar frame that the plate was attached, (inset) and then the plate itself. You can also see I've added the curved cover over the ventilation hole over on the driver's side. The Radio op and driver hatches are in place as well.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19440&img=mgextraarmouron.jpg

P.S. I bought another of these today ;) :lol:

[Evan August]

Pretty sweet James. I would love to see them do kits of the ausf F2 through ausf J like this. Those early Panzers really don't do it for me.

[James Tainton]

I agree-later versions would be nice as well as these early ones. But I like these very early ones too! ;)

Here the brass parts have been added to the engine covers.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19509&img=enginebrass.jpg

back mudflaps
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19507&img=backmudflaps.jp.jpg

Step 10
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19643&img=4958step10.jpg

the parts for the head lites
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19508&img=DSCF0003.jpg

There are two versions of air-intake covers, plastic and PE metal, I choose to use the PE.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19506&img=airintakeflaps..jpg

[James Tainton]

Step 10 using PE
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19644&img=step10b.jpg

This shot shows the two head light mounts and rear part of the headlight shell glued in place. The plastic wire is still in place- I may end up removing that and use the metal wire included with the kit. You can also see some of the tool holders PE parts starting to be added.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19536&img=hornonsomeholde.jpg

a pic of some of the tools for the left side. The fire extinguisher has its pe added.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19540&img=toolsleftlose.j.jpg

the wire cutters dry fit
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19545&img=wircutter.jpg

there are PE parts for the side fender fold down step and track tool. You can see I have sanded down the back left splash guard on the left-this needs to be redone and re located.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19539&img=rainoffsteptool.jpg

Step one (no pun intended) ;) I have decided to solder brass wire instead of using the kit provided strengthening cross pieces for the step and tool.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19541&img=tracktoolholder.jpg

next
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19542&img=1589tracktoolholder.jpg

three
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19543&img=1891tracktoolholder.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19544&img=4812tracktoolholder.jpg

The back pry bar, (that tool clasp was a bitch)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19538&img=prybar.jpg

[RC_Hill]

Looking great James :thumb:

Can I ask, about the in-take covers...does it matter if they are up or down? Or even, when they are up, does that mean the engine is off, or what? I can't find anything to tell me specifically about them...

[James Tainton]

I'll get back to you on that ?

an over all shot of the left fender with the tools dry fit. There are still some PE parts to be added but as I like to paint my tools seperate from the body, I will add those when the final placement of the tools takes place.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19537&img=lefttoolsfender.jpg

so now I will show the technique that works for me to get these clasps done.
First I cut the PE with a sharp knofe on the glass that is on my workbench.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19615&img=clasp1.jpg

The three parts needed to make one.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19616&img=clasp2.jpg

next I used a lighter to anneal the part that goes on the top. (MA38)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19617&img=clasp3.jpg

Next I bend the annealed part over a file to get it close to the right shape so things can fit together. It is flatten out a little after.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19618&img=clasp4.jpg

the bottom part is bent to shape and then secured with a small bit of CA to the metal base of a Hold & Fold.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19619&img=clasp5a.jpg

then part MA38 is placed inside part MA34 which has been folded. Once that is in place, using tweezers to sqeeze the handle part gently so as the location tips on part MA38 don't come out of MA34 I stlightly spread the ends of part MA34 and fitted it onto part MA37. The ends of part MA34 are then squeezed down a bit to secure the parts. They can slip out very easily.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19620&img=clasp6.jpg

Next the top part is moved to engage the hook over part of MA37
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19621&img=clasp7.jpg

The end of MA34 is hooked over part MA37 and squeezing the handle to keep the parts in place another tweezer pushes the handle down.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19622&img=clasp8.jpg

[James Tainton]

Ta-da!
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19623&img=clasp9.jpg

Next a tiny bit of solder secures the parts for posperity. :)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19624&img=clasp10.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19625&img=clasp11.jpg

A little clean-up with steel wool and there you have it.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19626&img=clasp12.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19627&img=clasp13.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19628&img=clasp14.jpg

[James Tainton]

Step 11
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19645&img=7084step11.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19646&img=step11b.jpg

right side tools
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19634&img=rightsidetools..jpg

[James Tainton]

Well I'm going to jump ahead a little to Step 12
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19647&img=1712step12&13.jpg

The cupola parts. These are very very well made- they really have tight tolerances on these moldings.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19629&img=cuploa1.jpg

just look at the vision block holders here
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19630&img=cupola2.jpg

I've chosen the closed version of the vision block armour.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19655&img=cupolaa.jpg

The turret bin parts
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19635&img=stowagebin.jpg

glued together. I have scraped off the molded on closing clasps-will replace with kit offered PE parts. Had toyed with the idea of using an ABER turret bin I have for the Panzer IV but decided to go with the kit parts- maybe next time...
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19658&img=turreta.jpg

next the turret turning device is made up.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19640&img=turretint.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19656&img=turretturner.jp.jpg

[James Tainton]

and the turret basket parts
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19641&img=turretint2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19638&img=turretbottom.jp.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19657&img=turretbasket.jp.jpg

[James Tainton]

Hi guys well not to much to update today- I was busy drawing naked women today and tonight... it's tuff work but someone has to do it.
The turret basket is placed in the upper hull and the little cone part and the part 48 on the bottom of the tread plate on the fighting platform are engaged. One must be very careful here as unequalness is the spin-ability of the said basket could be encountered unless- diligent baby-sitting and the occasional rotation in 1/4 turns every now and then to help keep things stay aligned. Good luck!
There were knock out marks on the turret bottom along the edges, I scaped these down as opposed to filling.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19686&img=basketin.jpg

Here you can see I've added the antenna trough and the first tool clasp for the small pry bar on the fender. I also lost the small square PE piece for this side's air intake covers (sorry RC-still no time to look up a diffinitive answer for you on you previous query, patience Lad, I'll get to it ;) ) so I sanded the plastic bit down oh so thin and replaced the missing part with it.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19687&img=antenaetrogh.jp.jpg

Bis Später ;)

[Larry Bates]

Looking good James. Man, that cupola sure is nice! Hope they do this to their J's!

Larry

[Andrew Hall]

Originally posted by ramcke_jager@Nov 7 2005, 08:28 PM
Looking great James :thumb:

Can I ask, about the in-take covers...does it matter if they are up or down? Or even, when they are up, does that mean the engine is off, or what? I can't find anything to tell me specifically about them...
R.C.

They're there to control the volume of air flowing through the engine bay. The air is drawn in through the LH grille on the engine deck and if the flaps are down, the LH grille where the flaps are and is expelled through the RH engine deck grille, under which the fans sit, and through the RH side grille. So if you close those flaps up your engine bay will be warmer. So yes the engine will run with them all closed up. I was looking at various shots earlier and there doesn't seem, on the face of it, to be any particular pattern if a set of flaps was partially shut, it's either the back two or the front two or even the rear three shut with just the smaller front one open......or just the rearmost....or just the middle one....I'm waffling. Next time I'm down at Bovington I'll have a dig through the PzIV files and see if they've got anything on a specific procedure regarding the closure of the flaps.

Andrew

[RC_Hill]

Cool :)

Thanks Andrew

[Larry Bates]

James,

If you have a dml panzer IV J can you see if the cupola hatch and ring fit the new DML Panzer IV commanders cupola? I'm trying to find or ..... get a more detailed cupola for my dml IV J. Got one from I for get who made it , it's resin, and has the split hatch and I need either the flip up hatch or the one that pivots.

Thanks in advance.

Larry

[James Tainton]

I'll try and look into that Larry. Glad someone was able to answer you question R.C.
Just too busy myself. Thanks Andrew.
The gun, it's reall yall about the gun. And the design and molding on this aspect of the kit is pretty damn nice!. (important edit: I constructed this gun incorrectly. I should have added the interior parts that make up the guard and shell bag as per the instructions. I was not able to fit the parts on after the gun had set up the next day. There are two little prongs that sit out from the gun block. While not on the real gun block, they fit into location depressions on the gun gaurd parts. See below a few posts for my remedy. I was actually happy this happened as it will allow me to paint the gun block clear of interference from the gun guard.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19779&img=step14+15.jpg

Parts
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19631&img=2468gun1.jpg

here the block and barrel are together.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19700&img=guna.jpg

Although there is a metal barrel included in the kit, I choose to use the plastic barrel as it has rifling.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19701&img=gunb.jpg

next the body of the exterior of the gun.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19632&img=2905gun2.jpg


http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19702&img=9065gun3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19703&img=gund.jpg

next this back of the mantle
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19704&img=gune.jpg

the forward part is slipped onto the shaft of the gun and the back of the mantle is glued in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19705&img=gunf.jpg

next the armour piece goes on... the instructions were a bit confusing here, it appears to me they would have you slip this part over the end, Part F12, but you need to put it on now.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19706&img=gung.jpg

[James Tainton]

Next - Part F12
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19707&img=gunh.jpg

then the collar that will mount the antenae deflector.
(The reson they use a deflector is because when the turret revolves, the metal gun barrel may have come in contact with the antenna, throwing off communications. The deflector was made of wood- therefore it did not short out the antenna. It would hit the antenna before the barrel and the communications were not interferred with.)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19708&img=guni.jpg

the deflector/guard. It fits underneath in a little cutout in the collar ring.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19709&img=gunj.jpg

(In this pic I still need to sinch up the joint)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19710&img=gunk.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19711&img=gunl.jpg

then this is assembly is glued in place to the front turret armour piece, (whick has the gun mount pieces already glued in ;) )
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19639&img=turretfrontplat.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19712&img=gunm.jpg

The parts G4 have to be carefully glued in place for the gun to pivot up and down.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19713&img=gunn.jpg

und jetzt muss ich schlafen-Schlaf gut ;)

http://www.iit.edu/~ravapra/bart_sleep.gif

[James Tainton]

so first things first, let's look at my corrective measures taken in reguards to my mistake during the gun's construction. I found out about the error after putting the three parts that make up the gaurd/gun assembly and then tried to fit it in place. As the rest of the gun had set I was unable to fit the little nips on the block into the location holes of the guard. So after filling the knock out marks on the gun guard, slicing the location tabs off, I sanded the gun block and ends of the gun guard that fits onto the mantlet back on the inside. I then stuck the sliced tabs into the location holes as filler. This was augmented with some Mr. Surfacer 500.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19633&img=6798gun3.jpg

Smoothed block & shell bag/guard. I won't glue this to the gun until after painting. Loction nibs (see inset) gone.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19780&img=gumo.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19782&img=shellbag.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19783&img=shellbag2.jpg

Here I've added the holder for the co-axial mg.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19781&img=mgmount.jpg

this is a really well done mg
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19784&img=coaxmg.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19785&img=coaxmg2.jpg

[James Tainton]

here you can see the right side veiw port on the front mantlet has been constructed
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19786&img=frontclapa.jpg

The instructions are a bit obscure as to how to make these and I first tried sticking the metal parts on the side of the cover part as per the look in the drawing. This didn't work. I figured that the best way was to stick the cover into its hole in the mantlet and then glue the pe on, that way insuring proper alighnment.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19787&img=frontclap2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19788&img=frontclap3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19789&img=frontclap4.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19790&img=frontclap5.jpg

I'm not really clear on how these are to be properly secured if displayed in an open position???

[James Tainton]

So next I moved onto the shovel mounting. I had some issues with this area but more after this build progression.

the parts, from the set that uses PE.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19791&img=shovel1.jpg

Dragon only gives you the front of the shovel blade holder? They would ask you to glue this onto the shovel blade I guess after the shovel is glued in place. ?? This is not gonna work for me for the simple reason, I like my tools to be painted separate from the body. I think the look would be wrong in any case because of the hollow back. So I decided to scratch a back for the shovel blade cover.
So first I used a circle template to mark and cut out a circle of the right size from a scrap of brass sheet.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19792&img=shovel2.jpg

This was sanded to shape, soldered and cut/sanded-flat on the end.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19793&img=shovel3.jpg

This was then soldered to the PE part that mounts this to the hull.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19794&img=shovel4.jpg

then it's all glued to the hull. I had previously filled in the shovel locating holes that I guess I had opened up way back by mistake. The thing is looking at some references it seems that the E Had two different locations for this shovel. In some pics and drawings I looked at the shovel was mounted further back, with the shovel blade cover in line with the wooden antenna holder. Tom Cockle has it mounted more like in this kit on his accuratized Panzer IV/E in the AFV Modeller mag article, so that's the way I did it in the end. However during the checking of all this I noticed that the antenna holder was not in the right position. Not sure if this is because the locating holes are wrong in the kit or did I open the wrong ones. I'll take a look in the other kit I have of this and will report back here later. So I removed the antenna holder and shifted it forward after slicing the interior locating tabs off of the holder and filled in the locating holes.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19798&img=antennaholderan.jpg

In this pic it is in the right place.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19799&img=proper-alignmen.jpg

Shovel blade cover in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19795&img=shovel5.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19796&img=shovel6.jpg

[Larry Bates]

Looking good James. ;)

[James Tainton]

Thanks Larry. But scratch all that I just did- checked test fitting the jack and looking at reference shots, the elevated sitting of the clasp and the blade cover are not required. DML got that wrong I think, (if they want to fit the rest of the OVM)???
So back to the drawing board... :(

[Larry Bates]

aaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrgghhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :(

[James Tainton]

well it's not that bad :lol:
It seems there were a few different shovel/jack/spare track storage configurations on the E's fenders (according to photos).
I'm going to go to bed and look through some books. Post an update tommorrow. ;)

[Larry Bates]

Nighty night!
;)

[Andrew Hall]

I think those two turret front vision port mechanisms have been simplified for buildability sake, I bet you can't see them anyway once the turret is assembled.

I know it wasn't really James' question but thought if there were any points came up it would be interesting to discuss.

Typically I can't find my photos of them so from memory it goes something like this....You have two seperate structures here really, the vision port and armour glass and then the open/close mechanism. There should be a framed piece of armour glass on the inside of the opening. This fits the main rectangular opening while those semi-circular PE arms would fit tightly against the outside of the armour glass frame and into the outside edge of those two slots either side. Technically if your port is shut your PE arms should point towards the ceiling a bit more.

These arms are pivoting at the top and connected to a bracket on the ceiling (there's a similar bracket at the bottom bolted to the turret just in front of the traverse ring). The left hand semi-circular arm is connected to a lever on a quadrant sitting just behind and bolted to the ceiling. Moving this lever opens and shuts the armoured port.

Phew! Who needs photos when a thousand words will do ;)

Andrew

[James Tainton]

Thanks for the input Andrew-
Here is a drawing from the CMK kit on the turret interior. Granted it is for a Pz.IV/H , and from a aftermarket kit, but perhaps it does though some light on this subject?
It appears that DML has really simplified things here.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19808&img=visionportcmk.j.jpg

[James Tainton]

More about the shovel stowage. In this pic, which is the tank I think I want to portray, you can see there is a spare wheel mounted on the right hand side of the hull on the fender. Also you can see what appears to be some kind of storage box in front of it. To my thinking this would interfere with the jack being placed here. I have no other pics of this vehicle to help clarify this...anybody?
I also see on the left side what appears to be a metal frame that may have held extra jerry cans.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=18925&img=72164.jpg

[James Tainton]

Here is a shot inside of an Ausf. G. It is more simple compared to the above example of the CMK kit for the Ausf. H
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19809&img=visionblockfron.jpg

these three examples show different stowage configs.
this one is the most common it seems to me, it shows the shovel mounting clasps and cover alighned with the straps that hold the antenna holder.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19810&img=stowage1.jpg

this is the one that is sorta portrayed in the kit's instructions
notice the extra pry bar on the very back air vent.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19811&img=stowage2.jpg

here the shovel is all the way at the back, and there are jerry cans and a strap the comes from the fender to the hull.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19812&img=stowage3.jpg

[Andrew Hall]

Re: those vision ports.

I still can't find the shot I was after but you can sort of see it in this one. Interesting to see the earlier 'all-in-one' mechanism on the Ausf G one you posted compared to the two piece affair here. The shot is one I took of Bovingtons PzIVD which went through a 1940's German incarnation of the show 'Pimp My Ride'.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y274/Andrewausfa/Detailx.jpg

There's a couple of other shots in AP3 page 79

Andrew

[James Tainton]

A question on the green colour of the breach block. I have seen it written that this was a post-captured thing done by the Allies- (I think it was by Herr Byrden). In fact they would be the interiour colour. Your feelings on that?

[Andrew Hall]

I've got to agree, at very least, in the sense that the wear is unequal compared to the rest of the interior. Tonally it's a dark green and it's had a good dose of oil over it.

It's hard to tell from other photos I've got but just under the lower edge of the breech block there's a bit of paint the same colour as the interior. Hard to see with 100% cetainty if it is the block or something underneath.

Andrew

[James Tainton]

Okay thanks.
Here is a scan from the Jonathon Forty's book-Tanks in Detail -Panzer IV. Captions identify it as the inside of a Panzer IV/E. Looks kinda like your example.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19815&img=frontpzevision..jpg

[Andrew Hall]

I think it fair to say Mr.Fortys books have received somewhat less than rapturous applause from the 'panzer' community ;) Nice photos (taken from Bovingtons photo archive for the most part) but the captions and technical stuff leave a lot to be desired at times. I've bought just one in the series and it wasn't written by Mr. Forty. I would recommend he read some of the Panzertracts titles as it would open a whole new world to him.

In this instance, he's obviously got the sun in his eyes or sneezed or something and walked straight past the big sign in front of the tank that says Panzer IV D/H.

Evidently, his next book will feature Bovingtons JP38....y'know, the big one with wheels and stuff with that huge gun thingy what Andrew Devey wrote a book about.

Andrew

[Larry Bates]

James, if I did this right, you'll notice on the third pic down, the afv with the guys climbing on it. there is a saw mounted to the side above the fender, mid hull.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19811&img=stowage2.jpg

[James Tainton]

Thanks I was wondering what that organic looking shape was. ;)
Well I decided to rip the pe off the front turret vision port klappes and redo it. I think I find there is a problem with the way things line up. The inside of the klapp has this sort of bearing system molded in. Then the front turret armour piece has this hole in it on either side that has these two little jogs that are where the swivel arms are meant to go- but if you glue the swivel arms to the bearings they don't fit properly in those little cut outs. So this time around I glued the swivel pieces to the cut outs and glued the cover to them after they had set. This looks much better. I just glued the other one shut.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19787&img=frontclap2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19788&img=frontclap3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19837&img=visionportredo1.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19838&img=visionportredo2.jpg

[James Tainton]

Ever since I had been working with the shovel and its PE parts from the kit it has been a struggle. :angry:
Today I was really trying to make the stowage system from the kit and in photographic reference work. Couldn't do it. Not with those parts. And I even tried using an Aber set's but they are the same pretty much. Basically I find that the width of the half shell, when in place as per photos under the antenna holder, did not allow the antenna holder to come down the side armour as far as it needed to to match location in photographs. I think also the little mounting raised platform thingy is to high off the surface of the side armour as well as the one that the PE clasp for the shovel in the back mounts to.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19791&img=shovel1.jpg

Here are a few pictures showing just the tip of the iceberg of my efforts today.
in this one you can see that the PE part does not look to be the right size for the antenna holder to fit in it's proper location
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19835&img=peshovel1.jpg

I decided to make sure that this was the case and made a scratch shovel thing and antenna holder mount.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19833&img=homemadebrasssh.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19832&img=homemade2.jpg

in place see how far out the half shell sits out from the armour- ought be half that, it should sit underneath the antenna holder.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19830&img=homemade-mounte.jpg

the antenna holder should sit about half way down the side armour.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19810&img=stowage1.jpg

[James Tainton]

I even built up an Aber one to see if that would work. No joy. :(
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19826&img=aberandhomemade.jpg

Looking at photos it appeared to me that the shovel that comes with the kit which has the blade cover molded on had the proper size and appearance. So I struck out to make one out of plastic.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19836&img=plasticshovelco.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19834&img=mountedantennas.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19827&img=antennaholder2..jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19829&img=antennathing2.j.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19828&img=antennaholdermi.jpg

[James Tainton]

Well just when you thought it was safe to put your spare tracks on the fender...
you find out that the shovel, because of some spacing pieces I thought I should use on the clasp and the back of the shovel blade cover, does not allow the spare tracks to fit the fender. Doh!.
Now I have to take the shovel off and take the spacing stuff off and retry fitting everything in place.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19868&img=tracksdontfit.j.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19860&img=strippedshovels.jpg

so here after few hours the spare track mounts in place
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19854&img=glued-in-sparet.jpg

the tracks are introduced
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19866&img=tracksinplace.j.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19867&img=traxinplace2.jp.jpg

Guess what? still didn't fit- the holders need to be moved closer to the edge of the fender to get the proper positioning....
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19869&img=stilldidntfitri.jpg

finally I think I got it sorted...?
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19858&img=shovelbackandtr.jpg

so now.... a test fit of the jack and guess what again? doesn't fit. After looking at verious reference photos and comparing the Tamiya jack to the DML item- it appears to me DML has made the jack tooooo BIG. So I decided I would make that Aber jack that comes in their Panzer IV/D set.

[James Tainton]

See how the hook-on part of the jack extends way over the fender if it is put it the position that the crank starter tool allows in relation to were the top of the jack should be. (I am using the crank tool with the molded on clasps so that the location is as per location tabs and holes. I will use the PE clasps on the clean tool later.)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19855&img=jacktestfit.jpg

The DML one just appears to be too massive when compared to pics of the real thing in photos. This is a shot of it beside a PAnzer IV jack from Tamiya.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19853&img=DMLtamiyajacks..jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19850&img=aberjack.jpg

the Aber jack fits great, (I still need to put the bottom piece on (stealing one from the Tristar jack)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19856&img=jacktestfitaber.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19862&img=testfitaberjack.jpg

[James Tainton]

Earlier as an aside today I sanded down the filled in joints of the basket support were they meet at the turret bottom. I needed to replace the bolts with some punch and die discs (tiny).
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19851&img=basketrivets.jp.jpg

the turret had it's rear pistol port glued on.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19857&img=pistolports.jpg

here is a dumb little pic showing a few of the sub assemblies just friction fitted. Starting to look like something a bit now though hey? Next the last tools need to be added and then the exhast. You can see some other parts leke the ventilator and the side hatch added here- better pics tomorrow.
Oh yes the tracks need to be done.....(mind numbing)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19852&img=bigtestfit.jpg

and guess who decided to come for a visit to Uncle Jamie's work bench today...
The neglected Tristar Panzer IV chassis. With all the excitment being generated by the DML Panzer IV build up I feel like trying to finish this one now too.. :)
The suspension parts are now mounted and glued in place. Next will be the the final drive.. etc.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19861&img=suspensionon.jp.jpg

[James Tainton]

So where the hell is everyone today- nobody posting... man .

I slogged ahead with the on vehicle tools. But first to take the edge off I finished up the turret first with the side doors being installed. Here are the parts to mount the door- if the hinge parts are glued very carefully the door can open and close which will come in handy for your 1/35th scale Panzer operators to get in and out of.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19892&img=sidedoorparts.j.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/panzeriv/turretsidedoor.gif

[James Tainton]

So here is a shot of the roof showing the signal flag port and the ventelator (nicely done!)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19889&img=ventilator.jpg

I added the vision blocks to the doors. These are clear plastic. I will mask the lens part and paint the rest - I think black??
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19878&img=glassinsidedoor.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19884&img=sidedoorvisionp.jpg

After looking at some images that show the jack pretty clearly I felt that the Aber attempt on my part, while okay, just wasn't as authentic looking as the Tamiya one. So I swithed it in.
Test fit
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19886&img=Tamiyajack.jpg

next the muffler parts
first the smaller one
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19885&img=smallmufparts.j.jpg

and then the bigger one
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19880&img=mufflerparts.jp.jpg

here's the mufflers in place on a dry run-they need to be painted and then added.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19887&img=testfitmuf.jpg

one nice "bonus" feature is the wire handles that come with the kit
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19891&img=wirehandles.jpg

[James Tainton]

Another shot of the gun for fun
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19879&img=2254gunb.jpg

[James Tainton]

next more clear vision port parts
I wanted to try and not glue them in till after they are painted but after wieghing the pros and cons- I decided to install them and carefully paint them black later.
first the left side where there is no vision slit in the armour cover
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19888&img=turretvision1.j.jpg

and the other side. This will have a glass block added and the outside amour klapp after the painting.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19890&img=visionparts2.jp.jpg

next I decided to add the PE replacement rain guard to the plastic part. First you have to carefully sand the plastic version down just to the point where the PE part should replace it.
and then glue with CA the PE part
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19883&img=sidedoorraingau.jpg

since I am going to attempt to bring this tank into line, equipment stowage wise, for a specific vehicle, (to the best of my ability given I only have one photo of the actual vehicle and a few pics of others that may have similar stowage), I decided it was time to move the tool that is for the idler hub parts (I believe), from it's instruction sheet indicated station at the mid-line of the left fender-to the rear back above the air ducts. This will allow space for the jerry can holder.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19882&img=removedidlertoo.jpg

In the new location. The tool appears a bit thick too me....
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19881&img=newidlertolloca.jpg

and finally the front right corner has a spare wheel mounted there in the pic of the real one so I scratched something up.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19877&img=frontsparewheel.jpg

[RC_Hill]

So where the hell is everyone today- nobody posting... man .

Well...today's really been one of those days....

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a355/ramcke_jager/2005_06_18homer.gif
And that was just this morning....

[Larry Bates]

Hey James,

No modelling for me today, had to do real work, on a Sunday! tsk, tsk,
no rest for the wicked! Yesterday I played a bit with some figures for my Sherman and such, and a panzergrenadier. Your Panzer is looking Mahvelous! ( bad Billy Christal imatation) . Tool situation very dificile!

Keep at it! :thumb:

[Andrew Hall]

I'll tell you an embarrassing story about those hatches - they're heavy! That's not a surprise you might comment but that didn't enter Mr.Prawnsferbrains' head here :)

The hatches are about 9 feet off the ground and I thought I could move this one a bit to get a shot of theoutside of the hinges. I extended my left arm at full stretch (while holding the camera in my right), grabbed that little flange around the edge and moved it slightly. Well that was it. Once I'd moved it an inch or so the momentum got going and it rapidly started to swing shut. There I was desperately trying to control something the weight of a ten year old kid with the fingertips of one hand whilst on tip toes and scared to death it was going to slam shut and send a loud crash through a terribly quiet museum! There's also a small matter of losing my fingers. Anyway, sheer adrenaline power stopped it and my fingers and blushes were spared.

Andrew

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y274/Andrewausfa/PanzerIVDBOVINGTON78cpy.jpg

[panamadan]

Andrew, Wait till one bops you in the head! Thanks God for CVC helmets. ;) Dan

[James Tainton]

small update today- got the Jack tool holders in place and the crank tool ones Was able to get three of the tool holder clasps done tonite- One for the axe is mounted and now I have one more of those bastards to do....
One thing I have noticed is these tooll clasps appear to have the look of the early ones- differnt from the later types I've been more familiar with. The tool is still loose but because of the zigzag shape of the tool - I couldn't paint it and then slip it in, I had to stick it in the clasps.:( Still I will have some flexibility in getting to it with the paints.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19922&img=crancktoolholde.jpg


The other thing I did was to take the kit supplied jerry cans,( put one sort a together) put a few of them on the fender to try sizing up a bracket that will hold three of them on the driver's side.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=19923&img=jerrycantest.jp.jpg

[James Tainton]

Here are the parts for the Jerry cans

They look pretty good compared to pics. I sanded down the locating pins ever so much -seems to help the fit. Careful not to take too much off if you try this. I did a little filing to the PE part, mainly on the top, to get the proper look, just filed it flush once installed.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20010&img=jerrycanparts.j.jpg

Next I filled in some knockout points on the upper interior armour plate with discs of plastic glued in with CA and sanded back. I also had a spare ventilator from an old Aber Panzer IV PE set so I put that in. It is pretty prominent if you look through the side hatches.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20011&img=ventinst.jpg

Next I think maybe either I did something wrong (it happens! ;) ) or Dragon did but the place where the part that the bottom of the turret basket is supposed to lock into- it does not line up properly if installed into the position indicated by DML. I had read where other people (R.C.?) had had problems with this aspect of the kit so I only tacked that part in previously. In any event it wasn't working right- the misalignment was distorting the basket support arms. So I took my Dremel tool and after removing the cone shaped part, took the little ring the thing sits in out. So I then had a flat floor. I then took the basket locked the cone part on and then with some CA on the bottom [put the turret bottom in the turret hole. This seemed to rectify that problem and now things rotate smoothly, and the turret won't fall out when the tank is turned upside down.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20009&img=basketholderred.jpg

Here the three Jerry cans are nestled into their new digs, a strap made of brass.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20012&img=jerrycansinstal.jpg

[Larry Bates]

Making good progress James. I may have missed it but do the Jerry cans come in the kit?

Larry

[James Tainton]

Yeper they shure do. And I am comin' down to brass tacks with this build- I need to finish offf the turret interior and get that painted before I can really get some of the last little bits on. I will start in on the tracks tomorrow though- they will take some time..

[James Tainton]

Well now I'm going to backtrack a bit- as now the broad strokes are done I can start focusing in on the smaller details. I reserve some of the smaller do dads till the end- to save on having to reglue things over and over that inevitably break off.
So first I want to add chains to th smoke candle dispenser. Step one for me was to put the cover on and hold it in place with my finger while tipping upside down. Then I take a drafting pencil that has the lead extended out so as to be able to fit into the hole at the top of the candle holder. There I trace out the circles with the pencil tip onto the lid bottom. Afte cutting the bras chains from the Lion Roar PE I bent one chian at 90° then using the pencil marks as guides I glued each chain in place with some rubberized CA. Next this was threaded after it had set through the corresponding holes from the top of the candle dis[penser. Then the lid was secured in place with two miniscule drops of Testors liquid cement, (in case in the future I need to get access to the inside of the lid again-should a chain break off in the coming years of my lifelong enjoyment of my little replica of a German tank. http://members.shaw.ca/hetzer/fritz.gif
Step 1.
The lid is in place to be marked
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20015&img=smokey.jpg

Step 2.
The marking
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20016&img=smokey1.jpg

Step 3.
You can see the marks
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20017&img=smokey3.jpg

Step 4.
The chains are bent and glued on the marks
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20018&img=smokey4.jpg

Step 5.
A test fit after the chains are threaded through the appropriate holes
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20019&img=smokey5.jpg

[James Tainton]

Today I stuggled with the spare wheel mountings. I decided after looking at some reference photos again that my first take on the wire wheel holder on the hull radio op. side front was not right. So I screwed around with some wire till I came up with something that looks like what I can see in pics. I did have to remove the little hook for the wheel to sit right. After getting something roughed out I took one of the spare wheel holders from the kit and tweaked it to match my mock-up. This was glued in place and there you have it.

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20021&img=spareonhullfron.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20022&img=3401spareonhullfron.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20023&img=6228spareonhullfron.jpg

Working from my limited referece of how they did the spare wheel mounting on the turret I sorta came up with something- this is early stages. Anyone have any clearer images or drawings of what this would have actually looked like?
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20027&img=2316spareturretphot.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20024&img=spareturret1.jp.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20025&img=spareturret2.jp.jpg

[Larry Bates]

Muy damn bueno :thumb:

Larry

[James Tainton]

After confiring with Tom Cockle to see if he had any insight to a solution to my problem he kindly sent me this picture from an old PSL Aztex book called 'Panzers in the Desert' written by Bruce Quarrie. It shows an arrangement pretty clearly. Also this photo of his Panzer IV/D shows his solution for this issue. I think I'll do something very similar.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20035&img=spare-roadwheel.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20034&img=F1010028.jpg

[RC_Hill]

Don't remind be about F-36. That massive amount of putty filler that I had to use following that fiasco lol

Looking real cool so far James. Thanks for showing us your trick with those tool latches too. I actually tried it a couple nights ago and it worked like a charm (though it's for my Tristar kit because I really want to finish that bad boy).

That's a real cool looking picture James and that's neat that Tom sent ya a pic of his Pz IV D to show ya. I wish he had some more posted at M-L besides the one before painting... :(

[James Tainton]

so basically I stuck with trying to come up with some adequate spare wheel mounts for the turret. And I had success I feel. But I had to do it about three times to get it right.
here is a collage showing some of the process. You can see I end up with a jig to bend the shapes consistently.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20040&img=rackcollage.jpg

Here is the final result (sorta) still need to paint stuff and I'll add a bolt head instead of the pin head later
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20043&img=rack15.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20044&img=rack17.jpg

There are three spare wheels that come with the kit but no hubcaps. (notice the extra detail on the inside of the hub.) I have used extra Tristar hub caps on these wheels.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20041&img=sparewheels.jpg

Here you can see I've added a few details to the basket such as a commander seat stolen from the Tristar kit and and some back rests
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20042&img=basketdetails.j.jpg

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by ramcke_jager@Nov 19 2005, 12:07 PM
I wish he had some more posted at M-L besides the one before painting... :(
Which one did you want to see more of? The D or E?

[RC_Hill]

His Ausf D would be the one :lol: untill you showed a pic of that Ds turret, there had been but one picture before being painted that I had ever seen....did he do a build on the Ausf D, like his Ausf E, in AFV modeller?

[James Tainton]

did he do a build on the Ausf D, like his Ausf E, in AFV modeller?
I don't think so, R.C.
These pics are from a CD I have (from Tom) of the two builds.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20057&img=A1010007.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20059&img=F1010012.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20060&img=F1010013.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20062&img=F1030010.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20061&img=F1030002.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20058&img=A1030006.jpg

[atcockle]

James,

You're really going to town on this and it's looking great so far.

Just to set the record straight though, the three extra hubs are parts E36 in the Dragon kit.

Tom

[Larry Bates]

Hi James,
It's really looking great, can't wait to see you get some paint on this bad boy. :) And Tom, welcome to the site!

Larry

[James Tainton]

Originally posted by atcockle@Nov 20 2005, 09:41 AM
James,

You're really going to town on this and it's looking great so far.

Just to set the record straight though, the three extra hubs are parts E36 in the Dragon kit.

Tom
Thanks Tom, actually I'm only going to "village" with this build-next time I'll really go to town ;). As for the hub caps, after I go through a kit , cutting spures and all, parts here and there, and with me getting old- things can easily get misplaced and/or over looked. Sorry about that.:(
Thanks for setting things straight. And thanks for your help and allowing the posting of your pics. ;)
A photo with the overlooked parts. No biggie-and good to know I was wrong.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20063&img=DSCF0002.jpg

[James Tainton]

Well Larry- I got some paint on it now- but first I needed to do a little masking with some tape on the glass parts.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20064&img=masking.jpg

My main area I wanted to paint was the turret and hull interior so I could close it up, then focus on finishing up the outside. I was using Model Master flat black enamel here.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20066&img=flatblack2.jpg

I had more paint in the cup after doing the turret interior so I kinda jumped ahead and did a bit of spraying elswhere.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20065&img=flatblack1.jpg

[RC_Hill]

Thanks James :lol:

Lookin' great :thumb:

[James Tainton]

Kein Problem ;)
I used some Xtracolor X818 German Tank Interior Cream to paint the inside of the turret and other areas that require it. I also used Humbrol #113 to paint some primer colour on a couple of places. I use a Pasche VL exclusively- in this case as in most with the #1. (Fine) tips and needles.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20072&img=interiorwhite.j.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20067&img=white-inside.jp.jpg

I am opting to have my the inside faces of my turret hatches white, feeling since these are rather early vehicles sent to Afrika- they would have not had the grey exterior colour added to the hatches yet. I have seen photos with this detail too.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20068&img=white-hatches.j.jpg

the gun
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20069&img=white-gun.jpg

cupola and hatches
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20070&img=white-cupola.jp.jpg

the basket - with white and primer colour- there will be more work here-this is all broad strokes.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20071&img=white_redbottom.jpg

Having some primer colour left in the cup, I painted a priliminary coat on the exhausts.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20073&img=primer-exhaust..jpg

[RC_Hill]

What are you doing with those CMK Pz IV parts laying there? :o lol

[James Tainton]

Focusing on the turret storage basket (Rommelkasten), I used the kit provided PE to make the latch and lock system. This stuff is really tiny.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20093&img=turretclasps.jp.jpg

Here I am starting by bending the PE part MA53. The skinny part at the bottom curls up to form the loop that the padlock threads through.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20086&img=kastenlock1.jpg

Here parts MA52, MA53, and MA50.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20087&img=kastenlock2.jpg

There was some learning with this first latch- I did manage to get it together however.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20088&img=kastenlock3.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20089&img=kastenlock4.jpg

One cool feature that comes with this kit is these tiny lock bodies -they come in a little bag all by themselves. (TE1) One thing that I didn't like was the u shaped piece for the lock loop, it looks way to small when compared to the plastic lock body so I replaced it with some copper wire bent to the required shape.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20091&img=kastenlock6.jpg

The second one went a lot smoother. ;)
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20092&img=kastenlock7.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/achtungpanzer/kastenlockanimation2.gif

[Larry Bates]

very nice James. That is TINY! That is one great camera you got there.

Larry

[James Tainton]

Here's a little song for you all to play while you look at my humble ramblings.
Wooden Heart (http://members.shaw.ca/jadgtiger/01%20Wooden%20heart.mp3)

[landm]

James, great job thus far on this build! One quick question, I'm currently working on the DML Tiger I late and have been trying to decide whether or not to use the PE locks and latches for the turret bin, (they are the same as the ones in this kit) do the padlocks themseves look a little big to you?

Cheers,
Mike

[Larry Bates]

Thats one small lock James. BTW, nice song! :)

Just because inquiring minds want to know, what size drill bit did you use to drill the two holes in the lock body?

Larry

[James Tainton]

do the padlocks themseves look a little big to you?

Mike,
Hmmm you know I really didn't notice, they looked the part to me- I guess at a future juncture I'll take a closer look into this question.

what size drill bit did you use to drill the two holes in the lock body?
Larry- they come pre-drilled.

For tonight, a small update. Just want to get the lower hull done now. That means getting the road wheels, drive wheels and return rollers primed in black.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20103&img=blackroadwheels.jpg

Before I painted the idler I it was shared with me that a spacer would be needed to help the idler fit in line with the other road wheels. Some bolt head were also added. This assembly will next be primed and painted. I have glued the idler wheel to the axle piece- it'll help fit the tracks later.
The inset is a picture of the one Tom Cockle did.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20104&img=3012idlerspacer.jpg

I picked up a Steel Masters that had been sitting on hold for a while. Imagine my surprise when I flipped through it and saw Tom Cockle's Panzer IV/D build in it! Too bad I don't read French :(

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20106&img=smaster23.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20105&img=smtc.jpg

[RC_Hill]

I gotta get that mag lol....It'll give me a chance to work on my rusty French...in a fun way for once though :lol:

[James Tainton]

Well today I painted the wheels Panzer Grey. But before the Schwartzgrau, I sprayed the inside of the roadwheels with some Humbrol 113. For the Panzer Grey I used Xtracolor again this time X800.
http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20143&img=greywheels2.jpg

http://www.kitpic.com/is.php?i=20137&img=greyidler.jpg

While not totally ready -I painted some of